Steering Question....

« **on:** May 13, 2008, 05:46:43 PM »

When I went from stock to the PD, I kinda had to mickey mouuse the way the cable mounted the the diverter. I used a bunch of SS washers to shim it up. Is there something out there to un mickey it Mark

« **Reply #1 on:** May 13, 2008, 05:51:19 PM »

STOP DRINKING BUDLIGHT THATS KINDA MICKEY MOUSE. JUST JOKING

GET A PIECE OF ALUMINUM ROUND STOCK AND DRILL IT OUT THE IN DIAMITER OF THE BOLT.

« **Reply #2 on:** May 13, 2008, 06:06:11 PM »

Tom at www.jetboatperformance.com

can propably get you a swivel like this one . The bolt has a sleeve so you can wrench down on it real good and it comes with a jamb nut on the underside to keep everything secure . Since it's sleeved , the swivel will move freely even though everything is tighter than a frogs ass .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #3 on:** May 13, 2008, 07:03:34 PM »

Quote from: 76NORDIC on May 13, 2008, 05:46:43 PM

When I went from stock to the PD, I kinda had to mickey mouuse the way the cable mounted the the diverter. I used a bunch of SS washers to shim it up. Is there something out there to un mickey it Mark

You can go to Lowes and in those drawers in the hardware area, they have some nylon bushings that will work.

« **Reply #4 on:** May 13, 2008, 09:45:01 PM »

i did the bushing on mine as well, but used a stainless one instead of nylon, ace hardware special that seems like it is going to work (boat hasn't hit the water yet)

« **Reply #5 on:** May 13, 2008, 10:31:56 PM »

I just figured that the nylon would have less wear on the PD aluminum. It seems to work fine. I'll bet it was cheaper than the SS.

But still cheaper than you would get form a boat shop.

« **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2008, 10:50:20 PM »

my steering was binding up real bad last year. it was fine until i went thru the same channel everytime it would get hard to steer. still have not figured it out. not trying to hyjack your post just thought i would let ya know you are not the only person with steering grief.

« **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2008, 05:57:54 PM »

Hey guys thanks for the help, think I will go to homo depot see what they got, and as for that coors guy, when you are drinkin that rocky mountain piss water, I can see how your vision might be distorted, and your seein mickey mouse

JK Hey Aqua the only time I have some hard steering, is when im in the channel at park moabi, usually when the water is low. You have the grass and also that they need to dredge it for all the silt that has built up, even worse if you have a rudder on. Just my 02 mark

« **Reply #8 on:** May 15, 2008, 04:08:57 PM »

Swivel kits make it real easy http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=113
Let me know if Home Depot doesnt work out

Brad

« **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2008, 10:58:10 PM »

Or you can make a spacer out of a piece of stainless pipe as well.

« **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2008, 06:57:18 AM »

I still think, for the 2 moving surfaces/contact points, nylon is the best bet and a heck of a lot cheaper than SS pipe or a kit for $34.00. My steering is smooth as silk. I don't remember what I paid for the nylon bushings but I don't think it was over $2.00 for 2 of them. I can move the steering nozzle with almost undetectable restriction.

« **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2008, 07:23:15 AM »

I'd vote for the nylon, stainless contacting aluminum will cause the aluminum to get eaten.

« **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2008, 08:29:24 AM »

Thanks for the replies guys. Think I will go for the nylon, makes sense about wear and the money. Heck with 34 bucks that will get me a 1/4 tank of gas for my expedition

« **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2008, 11:27:50 PM »

I feel your pain on the expedition. I'm gonna have to start selling body parts to fill it up.

« **Reply #14 on:** May 21, 2008, 10:31:52 AM »

Try a Suburban... I'm at $115 to fill it

Oh and I like the 2 nylon busing idea also, I guess you would need to get a locking nut though to keep the wear or just compression from allowing it to come loose

« **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2008, 10:51:55 AM »

Quote from: The Chaz on May 21, 2008, 10:31:52 AM

Try a Suburban... I'm at $115 to fill it

Oh and I like the 2 nylon busing idea also, I guess you would need to get a locking nut though to keep the wear or just compression from allowing it to come loose

SS Bolt and Nyloc nut. Works great!! Only one bushing is needed but I think mine came 2 in the package. BTW, $70.00 to fill my small Explorer.

« **Reply #16 on:** May 21, 2008, 11:28:46 AM »

Quote from: GAWnCA on May 21, 2008, 10:51:55 AM

SS Bolt and Nyloc nut. Works great!! Only one bushing is needed but I think mine came 2 in the package. BTW, $70.00 to fill my small Explorer.

$35 to fill my '81 Chevy LUV!!!!!

« **Reply #17 on:** May 21, 2008, 11:30:14 AM »

Quote from: slow67 on May 21, 2008, 11:28:46 AM

$35 to fill my '81 Chevy LUV!!!!!

But, can you tow a boat with it? Other than a inflatable raft?

« **Reply #18 on:** May 21, 2008, 11:42:24 AM »

nah prolly a YAK

« **Reply #19 on:** May 21, 2008, 11:49:29 AM »

Quote from: GAWnCA on May 21, 2008, 11:30:14 AM

But, can you tow a boat with it? Other than a inflatable raft?

Actually it pulls my 16' boat better than my wife's 03 buick rendezvous

« **Reply #20 on:** May 27, 2008, 09:54:17 PM »

Hey guys, not trying to offend anyone, sorry if I do, but the nylon bushing idea is dangerous. Let me explain... with nothing but a soft bushing between the cable and the tiller, the bolt will take 100a5 of the side load from steering back and forth, this will eventually cause metal fatigue (modulous of elasticity) and the bolt could fail

. The back woods fix which is bulletproof and cheap is to use a 3/8" fine thread (316 SS) bolt long enough to go through the cable eye, the tiller and two 3/8" nuts and have threads most of the way to the head. Run the bolt through the cable eye then run a standard (non locking) nut fairly snug to the eye, then run the bolt through the tiller and tighten the "jamb" nut to the tiller (not the cable eye) then cap it off with an aircraft nut (ny-lok) and you are Golden. This will even pass tech for racing as long as the boat does not require dual cable steering. Very sorry for the "Verbal Diarreah"

.

« **Reply #21 on:** May 31, 2008, 04:29:56 PM »

Alright, I see kinda what you are saying about the nylon and everything else. The guy I bought my boat from did the 10,000 washer idea and to top it off, he didn't use stainless so it was a big rusted bolt back there. Anyways, this is where my problem comes in and I am curious to see if it's a common thing.
I just purchased a new steering cable for my jet. when I put the new cable in I noticed that the shaft of the steering cable doesn't line up with the bolt hole on the jet pump assembly. It isn't off by very much but it is off enough to where, when I bolt it up it pulls the steering rod to one side causing it to rub and restrict it's movement a little.
So is this a common thing, or is my boat just a little messed up?

« **Reply #22 on:** May 31, 2008, 05:18:22 PM »

ditch the spacers and washers. your steering tube should be loose enough that you can pull the cable down to the tiller arm, problem solved.

« **Reply #23 on:** May 31, 2008, 08:53:41 PM »

Is the nuts supposed to be tight or are they supposed to be a little loose? When I got the boat, it was tight with no movement allowed so I assumed that is how it is supposed to be. Is that not the case?
Now that I look at a few, they do look loose. Should I get a new rubber groment?

« **Reply #24 on:** May 31, 2008, 09:04:07 PM »

$34 is cheap for piece of mind that one of the most important parts on your boat is done correctly . I'm just sayin .

-beerjet-

76NORDIC

COORS HEAVY

beerjet

GAWnCA

FORKEDUP

GAWnCA

AQUAHOLIC

76NORDIC

CP Performance

Jetaholic

GAWnCA

speedymopars

76NORDIC

Huklebuk

The Chaz

GAWnCA

slow67

GAWnCA

76NORDIC

slow67

GT Jets

TrailerHo

Luckie Stiff

TrailerHo

beerjet