This isn't why you run a wedge.
Not word for word, but verbatim, as Duane from HTP explained it to me:
Wedges are basically a calibration tool. Droop snoots add 2 bends in the water flow path...one where the droop attaches to the bowl and a second one at the nozzle mount (most droops have a +7.5* nozzle pin angle, which adds the 2nd bend in the water flow path). Usually when the diverter is in the "best MPH" position, it's angled relative to the front half of the diverter nozzle. This creates a 3rd end in the water flow path. The purpose of the wedge is to allow the diverter to be dead straight in the "best MPH" position, eliminating the 3rd bend in the flow path.
What you do is you run your boat at WOT to get the max speed, then find what diverter position gives you your best MPH.
From there you put it back on the trailer and place the nozzle in the position that gave your best MPH.
If the nozzle is DEAD STRAIGHT in this position, you don't need a wedge. If not, then follow these steps:
Referencing off of the keel, use an angle gauge to find what angle the diverter is at in the "best MPH" position.
Once this angle is found, find the angle of the diverter in the "dead straight" position.
The difference between the two is the amount of wedge you need. If the "dead straight" position is lower than "best MPH" position, you wedge up by the difference, and vice versa.
