Water pressure

« **on:** May 03, 2012, 04:20:10 PM »

I just recently purchased a new jet boat. The old one had a small gate valve coming off the jet to adjust the pressure. My new boat has no valve. I simply comes off the jet, has a garden hose connection that is capped and then goes to the front of the engine where it T's off and into the engine and thermo kit. I have read that you can damage the gaskets running with full pressure at high RPM. My last boat had an aftermarket pressure relief valve so I never really worried about it. Haven't put it into the water yet so if I need to change some plumbing Ill do it before the lake trip. Thanks

« **Reply #1 on:** May 03, 2012, 07:06:56 PM »

Quote from: sjackson007 on May 03, 2012, 04:20:10 PM

I just recently purchased a new jet boat. The old one had a small gate valve coming off the jet to adjust the pressure. My new boat has no valve. I simply comes off the jet, has a garden hose connection that is capped and then goes to the front of the engine where it T's off and into the engine and thermo kit. I have read that you can damage the gaskets running with full pressure at high RPM. My last boat had an aftermarket pressure relief valve so I never really worried about it. Haven't put it into the water yet so if I need to change some plumbing Ill do it before the lake trip. Thanks

Run a gate valve off the pump.........That pump can put 150 PSI in that engine. The gaskets are rated for 15 to 24 LBS. (rivertard).

« **Reply #2 on:** May 04, 2012, 12:07:10 AM »

You definitely want to run a gate valve. The pressure regulator is a good idea but not required.

The other reason to run a gate valve is in case you rupture a hose or blow out a freeze plug you can shut off the water coming into the boat before (hopefully) before it sinks.

« **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2013, 09:11:05 PM »

U want a regulator with relief setup. That controls water pressure ur thermostat controls temp

Sent from my LG-P509 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

« **Reply #4 on:** May 11, 2013, 01:46:50 AM »

I agree I didn't have one on my last boat and I blew the gasket on the water pump housing and because of it I was getting water in my crank case. Put the gate valve on and never had a problem since.

« **Reply #5 on:** May 11, 2013, 03:13:34 AM »

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=380632583700&globalID=EBAY-US

« **Reply #6 on:** May 11, 2013, 09:21:44 AM »

You need a regulator with a built in relief valve off the pump.

This goes into your block and controls pressure

Your Thermostat controls Temp

After the Tstat housing u need one line to dump overboard the other line from the TStat housing to supply your headers.

The gate valve works but your guessing. If you use a Regulator and Relief you set it and forget it. At any rate if you divorce your Engine coolant and your header supply youll be good.

« **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2013, 08:10:41 AM »

Stick a gauge after the valve. That's what I did.

« **Reply #8 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:08:52 AM »

Ok ...reading both threads thinking

if you run gate valve wide open at say 150 psi at high RPM. What gaskets are going to fail first ... second...and so on ? I get the set it and forget it part but my setup is the way it is now ....so I forget it ! sorry for the jack

but there was no reason to start a 3rd thread........

« **Reply #9 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:16:02 AM »

you right but I didnt start it and it looks like a few people have questions about pressure and a few have blue headers so dont say sorry by all means the more imput the better.

I bet 99% have gates but it looks like a few have issues. I don't think people know the proper set up with that system otherwise we wouldnt have these questions or gasket or blueing issues

« **Reply #10 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:43:37 AM »

My reason for asking is a long story... but last year when I had my boat out I ran for a few hours like 3 ...on and off ..floating then running. nice and warm running good . then I got on it for about 10 min straight and got a hot smell so shut down . noticed the gate was WFO temp was fine . so dialed back the gate valve and didn't have another issue. So if I blew a gasket ? what gasket could have blown? Im running logs and snail so no blueing issues with headers. kinda the same subject

right

« **Reply #11 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:51:52 AM »

Quote from: jetjunky101 on May 12, 2013, 11:43:37 AM

My reason for asking is a long story... but last year when I had my boat out I ran for a few hours like 3 ...on and off ..floating then running. nice and warm running good . then I got on it for about 10 min straight and got a hot smell so shut down . noticed the gate was WFO temp was fine . so dialed back the gate valve and didn't have another issue. So if I blew a gasket ? what gasket could have blown? Im running logs and snail so no blueing issues with headers. kinda the same subject right

Once you have the gate valve set where you think it should be, tighten down the packing and write down somewhere how many turns open she is and run a tie wrap (Zip Tie) through the handle of the valve around the body. This makes it evident that someone could have tampered with it and also keeps it from adjusting due to vibration.

GT

« **Reply #12 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:53:53 AM »

Quote from: jetjunky101 on May 12, 2013, 11:08:52 AM

Ok ...reading both threads thinking if you run gate valve wide open at say 150 psi at high RPM. What gaskets are going to fail first ... second...and so on ? I get the set it and forget it part but my setup is the way it is now ....so I forget it ! sorry for the jack but there was no reason to start a 3rd thread........

Easy... On a Ford, the intake gaskets are the weak link.

On a Chevy The intake and/or head gaskets are the weak link. On an Oldsmobubble, the Olds is the weak link...

« **Reply #13 on:** May 12, 2013, 12:02:04 PM »

thanks GT ...its a chevy . ill do the zip tie thingy ...and keep a close eye on it

had it out a few more times after that and no issue. hopefuly I didn't hurt anything

« **Reply #14 on:** May 12, 2013, 12:13:59 PM »

BTW...

jet fever, ever wonder why you have to run a port cap on the dipstick tube?

I am guessing the it makes a big foamy mess when you run it hard?

Either you oil is foaming from excessive windage, it's getting too hot due to excessive cylinder to piston clearance, or excessive blow by pressurizing the crankcase... All things that can be reduced by lowering the operating temps.

Just being a snotbag... nothing personal.

Brad had the same thing going on on the Crazy eights and I still to this day think he had way too much oil in the pan... The oil temperatures actually dropped by quite a bit after pulling a few quarts of oil out... Of course this was right before it broke a main cap off the block... Unrelated I'm sure.

« **Reply #15 on:** May 12, 2013, 01:22:34 PM »

Lol nice...

No that was before I got that set up on there. But Good eye.

Yes it was the reason why I have that set up now.

« **Reply #16 on:** May 12, 2013, 01:30:19 PM »

That was cause the Damn gate valves

I dont want anyone else to feel my pain.

Can you plese tell we how you control pressure with your gate set up?

I'm keeping my Thermostat secret to myself from now on.

GT next time I'm down your way we're gonna discuss some shit over sum beer

« **Reply #17 on:** May 12, 2013, 01:59:52 PM »

Quote from: jet fever on May 12, 2013, 01:30:19 PM

That was cause the Damn gate valves

I dont want anyone else to feel my pain.

Can you plese tell we how you control pressure with your gate set up?

I'm keeping my Thermostat secret to myself from now on.

GT next time I'm down your way we're gonna discuss some shit over sum beer

Works for me, you are in Fairfield? I was there Thursday.

sjackson007

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