Is/was the back of the loader sitting on the floor of the intake? It's hard to tell from the picture but it doesn't look like it.   If its not at least touching or better yet have a little preload they'll crack, just like that, from harmonics.  Sometimes it's necessary to add a little material to the bottom of the loader to accomplish this.

I agree with you glen about how the berk pretty much comes in ready to go and parts and what not.
Lets start to modify here and there.
First the impllor.
Cuzzi has 5 blades over Berks 4.
I remember the Cuzzi having a smaller exit side on the impellor which to me can only mean more pressure.
5 blades means more bite 
Yay or nay .....

-beerjet-

In general a 5 blade impeller works best for hole shot and 4 blade impeller is better for max top end (you can liken these to propeller design ie 3 vs 2 blade).  There's a billet 5 blade impeller available for Berk but there again top speed is scrubbed off a bit in favor of low end performance.  Heres a curve, A Drake pump has a three blade impeller, and when Turbine was developing their SD-312 they also experimented with a 3 blade design and found it wouldn't produce acceptable PSI.

The look, shape, feel, inlet angle and approximate size of the intake up to the 6 3/4±" impeller mouth is uncanny between the two jets(STD berk and  jac WJ).

Compared to a Berkeley, the WJ impeller has a similar inlet blade angle.  The WJ blades are slightly longer, but flatten out and narrow slightly more toward the exit.   The flatter exit angle of the blades brings the outer shroud and the exit hub closer together, but the difference appears to be made up in overall larger exit diameters when compared to it's Berkeley equovolent.

The Bowl is the weakest link compared to a Berkeley, I don't have any actual numbers, but the bowl has less potential for volume.  The exit side of the Bowl is actually the true nozzle of the pump, often refered to as the cone.  Inside the cone is supposed to be a 1.5" round piece of aluminum with a bolt attaching it to the end of the bronze shaft support bushing.  The Round Aluminum piece subtracts area from the nozzle exit which is 3.350", giving it the same cross sectioninal area of a 3" nozzle.  It seems to be popular to remove this piece, but keep in mind, removing this piece makes the nozzle 20% large in area which is like changing a Berkeley nozzle insert from 3.125" to 3.49" nozzle insert.

In the end, in stock form they perform approximatley the same.  The Jacuzzi seems to require less maintance, no rope packing to leak or go bad, no gaskets (except for the intake), the plastic wear ring takes the brunt of the wear, Solid Bronze bowl support bushing rarely needs replacing or shows any real signs of wear, Thust bearing is sealed on both ends of shaft and doesn't require drive line yoke to seal front, inspection cover is large enough to throw a cat through and is build very strong....


I'm sure theres more, but i have to get some work done now

Okay, I'm a bit frustrated.  Seemed like over the weekend I couldnt keep the damn thing in the water long enough to keep it loaded.  As a recap, this is a Energized Panther with a SS AA impeller. No droop and the ride plate set at 2.4 degrees.

Any ideas of where I might be able to start???

Do you normally get to drive it solo like that, or with a passanger?  The extra weight of a passenger could make the difference between  porpoise and no porpoise.  Just a thought

JDH precision was Jim D Henn, the diverter was known as The Bushwacker.  From the stories I've been told he was a former employee of Place Diverter.  They're a little heavier castings than a place diverter but for all intensive purposes look very similar.  JDH experimented with putting vanes through the center of the nozzle on some of the later units.  I've also seen them with small wings protruding from the sides of the reverse exit.   My dad bought one new around 94 for our family boat, i always like the sticker of the hillbilly holding a shotgun with two smoking barrels, on the reverse bucket

Nice 

What are the spec's on it and what kind of boat is it in ?

Here's a pic of my Dad's 418 Windsor that going in his Hot Rod it will be on the dyno in a week or two:

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/Sleepercp/P8060861.jpg

Sleeper CP 

Good Looking windsor! is that a Standard 302 tunnel ram or a boss?

My dad did a pretty good job covering the majority of the build.  This was the first time this engine was lit up with the crank trigger installed and that much initial timing (total locked out).  Now as I suspected, I got to go back and re set the carb, and change the throttle plates.  The carb came factory with .125" holes in each butterfly  which was perfect berfore, but now with this much timing the plates are practically seated against the throttle body with no transfer slot revealed at idle.

NO..........Thats my ebay name.... and i hate it   I am 468Bahner from here on out

It represents the boat.  And i plan on keeping it for awhile


I mean it

Are you really on you 468th boat?

Think brackets like that would hold up to the stress of a BBC? Really thinking about something like that for my sled down the road. Don't have to worry about too many clearance problems.

Those are BBC brackets (front Mounts), if you look just behind them you'll see the ugly ass adapter blocks I made to space the SBC out to fit in BBC location.   This boat is BBC ready, and may not be far away from having one

I love the motor plates on this thing!!! They really complement all the other curves and rounded shapes well!!!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r319/jetboatperformance/ufo/DSC00264.jpg[/img]

As always great work Tom and Josh!!! I hope to someday meet you in person.

Thanks HJ, but we really can take credit for any of the beautiful gold anodized hardware as it came with the boat, but It has given me alot of new ideas. 

Cuz she don't know no better cupcake.  Give her time or tell her to talk to me.....

Awesome pics and I'm liking Hurricane in some of them...

Take care, say hi to everybody and whenever you're not up to your ass in work. Call me

Perhaps she just knows him well  

Shes the only one I know that can get away with smacking him in the head with a balloon in the middle of a sales call and still get him to laugh

While sitting in the garage looking at the pile of spare parts, and being really mad about my alt mounting (don't ask  ).  I had an idea  .  What do you guys think about this to adjust the ride plate

 I was thinking about using longer bolts for the 2 outer bowl to suction housing bolts and adding a bracket there to mount these old cav plate adjusters.
(Attachment Link)

 It puts the adjusters at an angle (not sure about that), but they would be at opposite angles kinda like this \ / .  here's another shot .  What do you guys think, will it be strong enough
(Attachment Link)

I think your on the right track Jeff.  The fact that the turn buckles will be \ / shouldn't be a problem.  I'd also suggest adding some stiffeners to the rideplate, as you have more of a potential for flex with turn buckles than you do with a fixed yoke.


edit: I may change my opinion if the angle on the turnbuck is past center

How about a blower case with no guts    Not sure how well the blower manifold would work as a stand alone manifold, how long are the runners?

I'm still  after trying them 7 years ago.  never could get them tuned propperly, was always too rich no matter what I did. They make the whole carb longer by 1/2"+ on either side of the main body and you end up with a dog legged accellerator pump diaphram lever(very sloppy).

Thanks for the feedback. 

I already have a gauge set up to check for pipe leaks -this should be a quick.  I agree pressure is pressure, but with my luck some how this sh!t would have to be different for some crazy jet boat reason   

The only difference you may see is that the air may cause the gauge to flutter slightly because air compresses and water does not (preasure builds, releases... so on, so on).