Folks, I am taking my JE housing down to get it blasted clean, then coated/painted.  What I'd like to inquire is, what do you recommend painting/coating it with?  Brand, # of coats, type of primer, etc, etc.  What do you think or recommend on this?

Between doing the stringers and interior in addition to the motor and pump, when the wife let's me have the time, I also am about to start w/ a contractor on the master bath. AHHHhhhhgggggg!!!!!!!  This shit never ends!  I set the externals on the motor early last summer to take some measurements and it looks pretty good.  I just gotta wait till I get it in there for real to set the driveline angles and measure for the thru transom headers from Bassett.  Here's what it looked like on the mock up.

Sweet!  It's nice to see Oldsmo-bubbles rockin' the water again.  I'm steadily assembling mine this winter too.

I've got a Berk JE with a new 17-4 shaft and inducer and am looking for an SS "A" impeller.  You say B-1 racing?  Do they have a website or phone #?  I couldn't fine them on the web, but probably just me.   

Nah! She was a 2 door, all steel, 10pt roll cage, 400hp shot of N2O, back halved and big tired w/ wheelies.  My way in was 3980lbs.  She was about 5 colors of primer and Emeron blue.....found out that I ain't that good at body work so I stuck to what I am good at.....drivetrains.  I love Olds just because of the fact that everyone thinks ".....it's fathers' Oldsmobile".  Funnier 'en hell when the poor bastards in Chevys, Putz-stangs, Mopars were left on the line when I dropped the trans brake and two step and 200hp of nitrous carried the front wheels out and 80ms later another 200 of N2O kicked in and wouldn't let me set the fronts down till after the 60" mark.  Just love the torque monster Olds-mo-bubbles.  This new engine has 76cc chamber heads, roller hydraulic Lunati voodoo cam, Harland Sharp rockers, gear drive, Diamond pistons......etc, etc, etc.   

It's just fun as hell to stay out of the mainstream and still kick ass and take names.

This Glastron's got a JE pump, SS loader, 17-4HP shaft, Billet inducer, "A" SS impellar, Hydraulic place diverter, Hot foo pedal, seating for five + a 36 qt cooler, + approx.535HP/585lbs.tq.

Fun fun fun     I just need a set of thru transom headers for it.........oh the fun

You are doing a lot of ass u meing ! I don't see how you got the picture that he is re using those exact rods! I don't even think Stevie wonder would venture to re used them!
But you obviously think that was what his plans were!

And Andy miller...let's not get started on that subject!


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As for Andy Miller.  I know from multiple other forums that some people don't like the guy.  I will state that I have never been steered wrong or done wrong by him   YET.  Of course, I only purchase parts, he does not do any of my mill work or assembly or design.  That is where I think most people don't like him.  Just me though.  The parts I've purchased, A+ top notch.  No complaints.

Alright, let's not make this a pissing match about all this.  I'm stating from my experiencethat the OE rods are not as strong and a a weak link.  In regards to GlassCutter's response with the PHR article, I've read it also.  Gotta remember one thing, those types of magazines are not by any stretch of the imagination gospel or close to it.  Most articles are sponsored, in other words, someone got paid, so there is a percentage of bias that must be suspected.  A very good series of articles written by Joe Mondello, not by a magazine,            http://www.oldsmobility.com/oldsmo/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=385   
Also, this is a forum where we all try to help one another out.  I have never ever gone with just one builders recomendations, I've contrasted and compared build & engineering notes by multiple Oldsmobile builders.  Mondellos book costs $30.00 and is a wonderful resource, as well as Dick Miller's book, and a great one is Bill Travato of BTR Performance, his is about the same cost.  These investments are priceless when it comes to how many years these builders have been doing their magic.

Gentlemen, white flag, we're all here to have a good time and not put shots across each others bows.  Are we cool on this?

In all seriousness, replace those POS I-beam factory rods with H-Beams.  The Eagle 6.735" bushed rod is affordable and very reliable.  Also, are you stabilizing the lower end with a halo or a girdle?  As big as the journals are, bearing speed, and amount of torque, I would at a minimum stud the lower end and put a 4 or 5 cap halo on it.  Tying in all the mains together is key so if any contortion were to try to occur, it's distributed across all the mains.  Dick Miller makes a great 5 cap halo kit.  Olds Performance Products has a good alternative to the pound in oil restrictors, drilled/threaded plugs w/ tap kit. 

My only concern with in the pan is that it after it has pulled the heat from the engine, and is not the temp of the oil that it has pressurized in its veins, per say.

Folks,

The build up on my BBO is finally coming to fruition.  Diamond custom 11.88:1 slugs, Eagle H-beam 6.735 rods, fully worked pro-comp heads, Edelbrock Victor w/ 1050 DOminator up top, and the list goes on and on.  I'm still in the midst of milling and slathering in the new stringers for this boat ('75 Glastron CV21).

My question or rather poll is, where would you place your oil temp sensor on this critter?  In the oil pan (10qt) w/ a welded in bung?  Up by the oil pressure sensor on a "T" with the pressure sensor, or tapped into the returning from the cooler (cooled) oil line feeding into the engines pressure circuit, as this is what the engine is acutally using?  I'm kinda leaninng toward the oil cooler line circuit.........what do you folks think?

Out here where I am, middle of the flippin' country, there aren't a whole lot of people with jet boats aside from all out drags, palce called Blarney's Island, 800' stretch.  However, suppliers of parts is difficult out here.  Has anyone dealt with ARS marine, or Performance Jet of Sevastopol, or Jet Boat Performance.  I do deal a good amount with CP Performance as I was recomended by my brother who races Mod VP nitrous outboards.

Damn! I gotta check back more often to get the questions answered faster but here it goes......
1)  The compression ratio is calculative, stock compression distance w/ Diamond forged flat-tops w/ 3.2cc reliefs.  77cc chambers but, heads were decked to clean and set RA, and are now around 76cc.
2)  The Harland Sharp rockers are the best for any Olds engine on a budget in lieu of shaft mounted.  The have the best shaped pushrod cup out there- Crane has the worst.  I used to be a land-lubber w/ a 1400HP/830lbft. 468 in a 76 cutlass w/ a 4spd Lenco, pulled 9.73 @ 141 w/ a 3980lb car.
3)  The cam LSA (lobe seperation angle) of 112-114 degrees is less overlap than a 108 or 110, dropping the amount of reversion that occurs, not eliminating it, but lessening it.
4)  The headers, thru transom, I am contemplating moving their 4" outlets up about 11" from their stock location.  This would put them above the swim platform, but still well below the top of the transom.
5)  The procomp heads are a decent head for the money, and have plenty of material to work with on massaging the passages and port matching.  I've changed the valve/seat angles from 30 degrees to 45 degrees to pick up a little more on top end.  They don't flow as high as a thoroughly massaged set of Ebrocks, but do nicely.  The original Ga heads I've done a lot of work to but still need more money in them than I want to put.
6)  Because of the short suction housing is why it's necessary to assist feeding the impellar w/ an inducer.  I will be putting in, at a later date, a SS high helix impellar.  I just don't have 1300.00 for one right now.

My first jet was a '79 CVX 20 w/ a 460 and an E pump..........wish I hadn't gotten rid of her.  I got her for what the guy owed on it 8K, and only 16 hours.  Damn that first wife of mine.....bitch.