I have a stock 454 with a 600 cfm carb, I want to achieve 600-700hp all motor, what do you guys recommend I do to achieve this goal? What type of heads, cams, carbs would I need to make this happen? I would also like to be able to achieve a 5k-6k rpm of possiable ? Thanks

There is a bunch of difference between 600 and 700 HP.  You haven't mentioned budget, that's an important part of the equation.  What parts do you already have.. lots of versions of "stock 454"

Here's one I put together that started out to be shooting for 500 HP, couple of changes along the way and was able to produce over 600 HP on pump gas.  http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29409

It's a slow process, lol (Attachment Link)

How large is that hose Ralph?  The reflection in the puddle of oil is cool!

I like using a large AN adapter in the pan (-10),, then cap it.  When it's time to change the oil, pull the cap and screw on a chunk of hose that is already run through the drain hole.  If you are careful, you won't spill much oil, it will drain faster than the little drain lines, and don't have a hose laying in the bilge all the time.

Hey Barry would this intake work on a turbo setup?

It would if you are running oval port heads, but you may want to try and find some rectangular port heads for a turbo engine?

Yeah. I run about 5qts of 50 weight. No idea on the oil temps tho. That was my 2nd trip out since a complete rebuild. Ran great other than that. I know it's hard to diagnose without looking at it. I was just curious if anyone had this happen or knew someone who had this happen to them.

My instinct tells me that running a leak down might be one of your first steps, since the engine was just rebuilt.  It's possible there is a ring sealing problem.  What kind of breathers do you have?  Who assembled the engine, have you talked to them, or did it yourself?  PM for my number if you want.

Ok so I have a 77 hawaiian with bbf 460. Last year when I put it away it ran fine I recently tried to start to get ready for boating season ( live in iowa soo lol )  anyway I have no spark while cranking the motor over but as soon as I turn key off it will for hard once. Anyone have any ideas lol I replaced ign switch. Ballast resistor. coil ....I'm stumped

Maybe try a temporary hot jumper to the coil, but put it on so you can pull it off to kill the engine.  Since you state that their is a ballast resistor, are you running points type distributor?

Anyway, if it can start with the jumper,,, either the ignition switch or wire from the switch is bad.  Note that the starter cranking terminal on the switch is separate from the "run". 

Both of my breathers drip oil like crazy when I'm cruising at higher rpm's. Makes a mess of the engine and everything around it. Please give me ideas to fix this. I heard about running the breathers into the logs to get rid of some oil that way. I don't have much room when the engine cover is down. It touches the top of the breathers. Here are a few pics. Thanks in advance.

I would do a leak down test on the engine.  I don't think a puke tank is normally warranted, assuming the engine is working correctly.  Even forced induction engines, blown and turbo, I only put breathers on the engines.

Last week I dynoed an engine for a customer who had not sent his breathers with the engine.  I grabbed a set of cheap Edelbrocks from Autozone just to be able to run the engine,, didn't leak a drop.  True,, they were short pulls,, not runs across the lake, but my background is with endurance type engines that may run(hard) an hour at a time.

Those are available for $385 new,, this outfit makes all kinds of different ones.

http://www.vanpeltsalesstore.com/FG-3030-Replica-454-Chevrolet-Long-Block--1-piece_p_401.html

Dan,
 
thanks for your feedback.. I was afraid of the pan depth being an issue..    I need to figure out what pan to get for this Merlin 632 block.

Hey Bill,, as I said on the phone,, check the depth of that pan, I believe it's only 8" or so, which is not a bunch different than any other pan you could buy.  Let me know what happens after you remove the adjusting bolts, and keep in mind that you don't want the pan sitting directly on anything, you will wear holes in it.

The 180 degree headers do have a distinct sound,, they've been around for a long time, I've seen (and heard) them on dirt track cars for over 30 years.  Couple of circle race boats too.

And completely polished. Sorry forgot to add that

I went ahead and sent you a PM with my phone number.

Clean 2 bolt 454 Chevy block, fresh bore and hone to 4.290" (.040" over)  $250

I may have a usable set of .040 cast pistons on rods and cast crank that could go with this for free if someone wants to build a super low buck shortblock.

bump

While I have the engine out of the Rogers this winter I'm gonna switch from mechanical to electric. My plan is to get a Holley Red Marine pump and mount it in the same location as the mechanical pump via a bracket that I found thru CP Perfomance. This bracket will allow me to mount the pump directly onto the block (passenger side on a BBC where the mechanical pump would be located) I told a friend about my plan (he is very vocal) and he says that this won't work. According to him, Holley Red pumps move fuel not suck fuel and since the tanks would be sitting higher than the elctric pump, my engine would starve for fuel and I run the risk of burning the pump out. Any thoughts? He suggests mounting the pump to the inside of the transom at either the same level as or higher than the tanks. If I had the room I'd do it, but I don't.

Why do you want to change from a simple, reliable mechanical pump?