Wow, did I jump into the wrong hot tub? And an attempt to get the thread back on the track I think it was on.......

I agree with the idea of a thermostat. My twin jet was set up with them on twin 460's. But you have to have a bypass in there in the meantime during warm up.

I cannot say whether it promotes hotter or more consistent temps though. and that is what we are really after. Even at 160* as Glenn said, engine wear is increased by what, 1000% or so? These engines are designed to operate at 195* and change, and we run them, routineley (sp) at 100* or less in some cases.

Problem with a thermostat is it will rarely to never get a chance to open even here in the desert, I can't imagine it being worthwhile anywhere else. Closed cooling, kewl! And my twin jet is gonna have that! But a regular jet, ski boat, whatever, why bother? Have the engine built with much looser clearances, pay for the oil and fuel you lose, and be done with it!    Not like you drive the thing to work everyday or anything..........

Ray

Glenn, I thank god I know you every day!

LOL! IT's such a shame the only ones who realize what a great person your are, well....are US!!!!   

Ray

Got a few brand new Mallory Unilite  marine mechanical Comp9000's I'd like to get rid of! Not blower friendly........

 

Not gonna be $50 though! 

Ray

Sweet! I am a HVAC and electrical contractor. I have seen something similar. It ended up being the overhead feed from Edison. The neural from the pole is bare and uv destroyed the insulation on one of the 120v lines. It was causing some whacky things in the house. If some appliances were unplugged 1/4 of the house would go out. Glad you got it solved!

Well, it ain't solved, I mean, I'd be happier to know "hey, the wire to your water heater or stove is fawked up" or some rhyme or reason as to why I did this in February, myself, main alone and it cost me more than a pro doing it this time....  ....... But it IS working, and if it goes out in another 3 months again...well, THEN we know!

Bowtie, I suspect the real problem lies exactly there, in my entrance line, myself. And here is WHY. it is all on the side of my house that leads back to the RV gate, and I've backed boats through, and parked them there, thousands of times. Been many times I've parked my F350 there, and it's driven over that area countless times. Code in AZ as far as the house and panel wiring are not that indifferent to the rest of the world (Strict as hell) but the entrance? You have a rigid sweep out of the box underground aiming at the street. THAT is IT! just wire from there to their large under-street conduits, if there even in fact is conduit even there. THAT is why the first time it happened I figured it was my entrance line, and I still suspect it is.

We'll see! 

Ray

I guess Ill use a pop rivet

Sent from my LG-P509 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

That's how they were put on originally on every boat I've had. Visually and historically correct, AND simple and quick! 

Ray

Somebody smarter than me explain this electrical dilemma. Now, I know wiring, etc, but this has me baffled, and sounds expensive to fix........and a long story. I'm a pretty fart smeller when it comes to this, but this REALLY has me baffled. 

 Back in December/January, when Mom was out here for the winter, my Niece Josie blew up my oven. Set it on fire, burning up an element, whole shebang. Wasn't really her fault, but still fun to pick on her for it. Anyway, a couple weeks later lost power to half the house. Kinda weird, all the bedrooms except the master, half the kitchen, half the basement. Call the power company thinking one leg of my power was not working. Utility guy from APS helps me out turning off power to the house and finding a bad main breaker, helps me file and clean the contacts in the panel, etc. Of COURSE, it's not a breaker anyone stocks like Home Depot, its a $500 special order breaker which I procure from another source, install, then have to get inspected by the city before they'll turn power back on, yada yada yada. Got that all done pretty quickly really, although the ""inspector" I don't think knows an electrical panel from a toothbrush.... but all worked fine until tonight.

 So tonight, power goes out in half the house the same exact way! Here's where it gets funny. I turn off breakers on one side, reset the main, and turn breakers on one at a time, nothing. I'm scratching my head here at this point. most of the kitchen works, fridge, etc, but half the receptacles are out, Microwave/range hood out. My son was checking the stove to see if it worked, it did, and also VOILA! Microwave came on! Check it again, stove on, got all my lights back! I'm thinkin' stove issue. pull it out, unhook it, turn off its breaker, nothing. hook it all back up, turn it on, VOILA! Lights again!

 Now I go out really puzzled here and just instinctively wiggle the breakers on that side of the panel. get to the top one on the right side, nowhere near the stove breaker and pretty blue sparks, frying and snapping sounds lit up the side yard from both the main breaker and half of them on that side...(As well as my eyes, other parts of my anatomy, and I musta spilled water on my pants when I filled the dog dish earlier is all I can figure)

 Time for a new panel? This is what I DON'T want to hear, as that's a rather large deal since I have a 400 amp service, and it's only maybe 10 years old.........Or could it be since I replaced the main that the rest of the breakers just need to be ordered and replaced? I'm assuming somehow through my stove I was supplying power from one 120V leg to the other side of the panel. It's been working since the Harry Potter style magical light show, but I don't wanna burn the house down just YET either........

Thru bolt to a piece of aluminum on the inside...I did this to my swim steps. Use the plate as a giant washer. 1/4" thick should be fine. If you look close on my trans you can see mine. My wiring and blower cover the inner ones.

 

My Sleeks actually had a piece of 1 by Oak glassed in where they were mounted.....ut this will do the same thing! 

Ray

I wouldn't have an issue with a transom mount ski tow but I ripped my dads off his boat skiing last year so if u have an to super reinforce a transom mount I would totally just do the hatch

Had to be another issue there.

Brad, the host of this site, has towed me MANY times with a transom mounted ski tow on his ex-wifes boat that he sold..........a fact I'm not proud of...... .......but am.....

I have towed many with Moo's and Pickle's transom mounted ski tows. The most famous was "Stan". He chooses to remain nameless because his Chevy was towed TWICE by my Ford in one weekend......I even squirted him with the roost, knocked him off the bow and into the engine compartment, and ruined his camera on one occasion........ Nate errrr "Stan" got even and ruined my phone a year or so later.......

Guys on this site are so cool!   

Ray

But nothing wrong with transom mounted ski tows! 

Well I do have Rewarders with the weep holes, I just don't like looking back and seeing the drip from the steering tube.  I will look at those links and see if I can come up with a solution

Well, I think you're looking for a solution to a non-problem........     

Ray

Here it is. Took some diggin' LOL!




Ray

Small leaks, drips, I wouldn't worry in the least about. They take water on from everywhere. Weep holes in the headers, shorty headers not quite over the transom, even SHOULD be dripping some water from the packing in the front of the jet pump. That's what the bilge pump is for. It's gonna take on water from most all of these sources, let alone any other reasons.

What GT said may take care of it, but remember 2 things. If you tighten up things completely water tight on that, steering the thing is gonna be a byatch! A boot, I dunno, would seem to me a place to hold water, then rot everything out quicker, cables and such.

Ray

  not an expert...is it riding kinda low ?

  thinkin tidal waves 

Nah....not really. My last Sleek only sat about 4-5" out of the water. Had a splashguard added to it and twin bilge pumps, which I found out why in short order.....Could easily swap yourself real quick if you weren't paying attention...Quick turns, "donuts", wheelies, etc ya just don't try it until you know the boat well.

And the pump is fine, from a reliability standpoint. It's just different. The YJ is an axial flow pump vs the mixed flow of the WJ or the Berk. Generally, they work quite well in larger boats, like 21-24'. Hard to explain the difference, really, but it's all in the impeller design. The YJ impy looks more or less like a fan blade where the others are much more complex than that, and one moves water, the other actually pressurizes it. The other thing about the Golden Eagle is it's an insert style pump, meaning the hull is molded specifically to accept it, and the pump has no traditional intake bolted to the bottom of the hull, but rather the intake and suction housing are one and the same epoxied to the hull and held with a handful of bolts.

This is actually an advantage, in this case, because normally switching over to a Berk style pump from a Jacuzzi requires a LOT of fiberglass work since the Jacuzzi intake is so different than a Berk. But in this case, you could do a "set back" Berk install on it relatively easily with not much more than a sawzall and some skill with it. 

Ray