Looking good, nice checker plate. Make sure you round that edge all the way around with some 120 grit and keep the edge about 1/8-1/4 inch back from the edge of the step. Stuff sharp, I found out the hard way on my old trailer.


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Well if you can get ahold of a used mini droop it's worth a shot before you go and buy a full droop and ride plate


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Well depending on your RPM in the picture and depending on how much gas was in the tanks the boat doesn't look too bad, with the diverter at full up you're basically trying to bury the rear end. So you can really can't rely on that pic. The best nozzle position for performance at speed is usually  between 1/2 and 3/4 up. Basically at that point where the roost is just above the water.

And as far a a better ride quality what are you trying to correct or improve on? Porpoising?


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To answer your questions flusher


Well...  Who built the 496?  The 468?

Jerry goodhall, he was a family friend who built all my grandfathers boat and drag car engines in the 80's and 90's. His work is something I would never question or doubt.

 Was there a post mortem done on the 496?  If so, what were the results?

First block split the crank at 4/5 and windowed the block, second time around I don't think there was really a way to find out what caused it but there were 2 broken rods, windowed 1/3 cylinders,cracked the block at #2 split the crank in 2 spots, bent the cam and munched a few pistons on valves.

Just thinking, assuming the tune was right...  Most strokers that I have seen use a Scat or Eagle crankshaft, and the vast majority use a cast steel crank.  Some even use cast iron.  As GT pointed out, those are better suited for tow trucks and not performance applications.  The longer the stroke, the less overlap exists between the rod and main journals, the more that crankshaft is going to flex.  Castings don't like to flex.

Internals were scat if I remember correctly and the 468 that's still alive are eagle.

 Was it internally balanced?  External balanced cranks flex more than internally balanced cranks because the because the counter weights on the damper and flywheel are not supported on both sides by a bearing.  What kind of damper did it have and was it in good condition?

The each rotating assembly's  were balanced pretty damn close and a new balancer and flex plate were used on each motor. He said the motors were good to 8k but all the head work and cam profile were set up for 2500-7k. The block was suppose to be over built for the operating range we were aiming for and the valve springs were a little heavy for the cam,to prevent floating and rings were gapped for bottle use.

What about oiling?  How did the bearings look?

Couldn't tell ya.

You didn't mention the pistons.  Did a piston break?  Were they cast or forged?

Forged and yah there were some cracks and breaks both times.

What about the rods?

They came with the cranks if I remember correctly so skat cranks with skat rods and eagle crank with eagle rods in the living motor.

What about the main caps?
Don't know what brand but they were both 4 bolt caps and I don't remember which one but one of the blocks had the outer bolts at an angle.


If I have to sweep up all the little pieces of my life's savings, I would want to know what went wrong. 

Well you and me both but I was fortunate enough to only have to pay labor on the 3rd motor.
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Sounds like an rpm kill. Both accounts.

I would recommend a 496 for a pull truck before a light car.

I would not turn a 496 harder than about 5,800 rpm.

Car torque is non linear, a 427 would be where I would have directed a Chevelle.  (Speaking strictly stroke wise, not total inches ).

Jet pump torque is almost perfectly linear, right up until cavitation occurs.

Feel me?

GT

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No joke, both times that happened were 1-2 shifts and the 1st time was around 6200 and the second was just under 6k. I was that ass that oiled the track and shut it down for an hour both times


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Dogs in the bathtub or nothing bro.

I just ask because it's my opinion that a 496 has a little superiority over a 502.

That is if you're building something from blown up chit.

GT

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I blowed up 2 496's in my Chevelle. And I'm not talkin like pop done kinda blowed up, we're talking 1 piece stuff turning into multiple pieces and a couple windows kinda blowed up. I don't play around. So I put a healthy 468 in the car and it hasn't multiplied and parts yet and is doing fine. So to the op all bs aside. Build a 468 and when it pops then go up. Get more use out of the block that way.


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468, wouldn't waste my time on a 496, just go to a 502


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Like crew chief said it really depends on your plans but a alternator will only produce as much as needed so technically you can never have to big of a alternator but you can definitely have a alternator that doesn't put out enough. So it really depends on how much you wanna spend vs what you really need.

But if you are not afraid of a little electrical work and research a early to mid 90's caprice alternator may be your best bet. Just google "caprice alternator swap" and dig through a few forums. The caprice alternators are roughly a 140 amp alternator and are considerably cheaper than going out and buying a labeled "high output" alternator.


Edit: after a quick look it seems 90-93 alternators are a 120 amps and run around 100 bucks and 94/95 are 140 amps for around 140amps

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If you're putting a subfloor in, putting drain holes in those bulkheads?

No sub floor goin in. The bilge separator has a brass threaded coupler in the bottom center of it to be used for a drain and the glass just has to be cut away from around it.  That way he can either put a plug in it or put a check valve on it.


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Now the sanding


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Do you have a shot of the front opening area, does it come with the base and what's your price


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I have one laying around somewhere in my storage. I'm in riverside if your interested


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Should measure to make sure they will fit


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