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Messages - speedymopars

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126
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ALT issue
« on: August 02, 2008, 05:37:22 AM »
They do make an isolating battery switch, seems like a waste of dough though, Just use the battery switch in the #1 position for the engine, and install your isolator normally, that way if your cranking battery gets low due to a proplem you have instant jumper cables by the flick of a switch ;)

 The nice thing about having the switch is you can turn off the power to the boat, if you do it this way you will need to install a second smaller circut breaker and switch from the "stereo" battery because you will need to hook the stereo right to the battery terminal (does that make any sense?).

That's exactly what I do.

Alt -> isolator -> both batteries

Bat 1 - Normal starting battery wired to battery switch then to engine. Switch stays on 1 normally
Bat 2 - Deep cycle battery with stereo directly wired to it.

Stereo can kill deep cycle, and the engine will still start and charge it back up. If bat #1 dies and I catch it before I drain #2, I can jump start myself.


127
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Flame Arrestor
« on: August 02, 2008, 05:31:37 AM »
Here you go.

That is what I'm doing, I don't like dirty air either.

128
The No Wake Zone / Re: i hate boats...
« on: August 01, 2008, 02:04:48 PM »
Yea, I'm about 25K into my boat now. I could have bought a really nice one for that....

129
Lower River / Re: Low river rendezvous ! Aug 16 - 17
« on: July 31, 2008, 09:18:02 AM »
Yea, I have to bail out too. The wife is taking me on a vegas trip that weekend less kids :-)
I will be at Havi / Parker Aug 8-12th though...

130
Events / Re: Lake Havasu this weekend???
« on: July 28, 2008, 03:06:43 PM »
Going Aug 8-12 here...

131
Projects / Re: help making a 77 sanger go fast
« on: July 25, 2008, 10:03:53 PM »
I agree
Blower + Carb

EFI + Turbo

Though once you tune a turbo carbed deal, you can tune anything..

132
The No Wake Zone / Re: So..I just got a text message.....
« on: July 23, 2008, 09:45:10 PM »
You mean as in getting towed in to the marina or towed out to laughlin?  ;D

I made it under my own power the entire way on the lake -

And the new trailer tows awesome. very straight, no noises, disk brakes work well.

Those side guides are the best thing I ever bought, make loading a breeze.

I have about 5000 miles on the trailer now, baja trailers did alright by me.

133
The No Wake Zone / Re: So..I just got a text message.....
« on: July 23, 2008, 08:31:35 PM »
Here I is on mo Choppy Sat

I think I'm a Havi kind of guy.

134
WTB / Re: 500 CFM carb
« on: July 23, 2008, 06:59:27 PM »
I had one at one time - let me see if I still do. Any specific part number you are looking for?

135
The No Wake Zone / Re: My motorhome
« on: July 23, 2008, 06:50:40 PM »
My buddy has a 22 footer with a 440 in it that I built. Headers ported 906 heads, 850 tq, performer, crane .467 cam. It hauls ass...

137
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ignition resistance?
« on: July 22, 2008, 07:37:09 PM »
I got an electronic RTR dizzy for the boat, the dizzy says
"Coil with a primary resistance of 0.5 to 1.0 OHMS"

My coil has 1.2 OHMS, am I gonna kill this dizzy running this coil?

You won't have a good spark, get a different coil.

138
The No Wake Zone / Re: So..I just got a text message.....
« on: July 21, 2008, 04:23:19 PM »
S**T I didn't realize you guys were all there. I was staying at Laughlin and was on Mojave on Sat. Pulled it out Early Sunday AM when the lightning rolled in. Mojave is too choppy for me I've decided.

139
The No Wake Zone / Re: universal eletric fuel pump feels hot?
« on: July 16, 2008, 11:23:41 AM »
If your switch is getting warm, it is pulling too many AMPS through it lowering the voltage (the switch and wires are acting like a big resistor) which in turn is making your pump have issues.

A fire waiting to happen in my opinion.

Go buy a relay, and wire it in so the current + wire turns on the relay instead, and the pump gets its power from the battery through the relay.



140
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley Carb Tuning Debate
« on: July 15, 2008, 09:23:26 PM »
I am having some issues with my 4150 750 DP.  The engine is on a stand, so I can't test under load yet.  The carb has a 6.5 pv in the primary, no pv in the rear.  The engine is pulling 10in hg at 900 rpm.  The carb has 73's primary and 81's in the rear with 30 cc acc pump.

When the engine is at idle and I roll the throttle it sounds fine, but if it is at idle and I stab it, it falls on its face and then back fires.

Any suggestions as to what is going on and what to possibly do??

Thanks

If the timing is ok, then you need to up the squirter size and or take the slack out of the acc pump arm.

141
The No Wake Zone / Re: BOAT STORAGE
« on: July 11, 2008, 11:51:34 AM »
Head out to corona, much cheaper out there (and on the way to river to boot).

142
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine specific fuel pumps.
« on: July 11, 2008, 11:48:59 AM »
I was talking to my freind this morning and he has to replace the mechanical fuel pump on his houseboat this weekend.

He proceeded to tell me something shortly thereafter that made we want to smack him in the back of the head.

He told me the "marine" fuel pump was way to expensive for his 130hp 152" I4 "Iron Duke" (the little Chevy II) and that he was just going to buy a rebuilt Kragen special and go up there and put it on. I told him it had to be a "marine" approved pump with an SAE J117 sticker on it to be safe/legal because it has failure protection on it that literally kills the engine if it fails.

He then tells me the fuel pump costs $118.00, so I said "and", he then tells me he can get a Kragen special for $58.00, so I handed him $60.00 and said I'm buying your stupid life. He just smiled and handed my money back. He said he had to go order the "marine" pump.


In a closed engine compartment boat, do NOT ever cheat when it comes to USCG rated fuel/electical parts for the boat, this was a house boat that sleeps 12, think about that for a second...


A marine specific fuel pump (mechanical) has two diaphrams, one that pumps fuel into the bowl of the carb, and another heavier diaphram that floods the engine if the primary fails, killing the motor and ultimately the fuel flow. That is what that clear or yellow hose to the flame arrestor is for.

Sorry for the rant, but seemed relavent.

So did he run a uscg pump or not?

143
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ** CAMSHAFT **
« on: July 10, 2008, 12:36:13 PM »
I figured you were talking advertised, but just wanted to clarify.

With those small logs and exhaust, you did the right thing. You will never spin it to 6000 RPM - the fact that mechanically the engine can take it means the engine will last a long time. My Mopar with the HV pump is mechanically good to a sustained 6500 RPM - but I won't even get close to that. It too should last quite a long time.

Your RPM range with that cam really is 1000-5000 RPM give or take. 

Run it with a performer / Perf RPM (or a tunnel ram with small carbs), and an AA impellor should move it pretty good.

144
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Die-Cut Custom Vinyl Graphics/Stickers
« on: July 08, 2008, 10:55:38 PM »

145
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Anyone need their car/truck detailed???
« on: July 08, 2008, 10:44:02 PM »
Well, i recently left my job, and am now detailing again. Im looking for a little extra money for the coming couple of months.

I do mostly exterior details including:
wash
claybar
polishing
wax
engine cleaning

My interior details include:
vacuum
spot cleaning of carpet/upholstry
dash dusting and dressup

If any of you need any kind of combination of these things, i can be of service immediatly. i will travel to most cities in LA and OC. and i will obviously do them in my driveway if preferred.

I have been detailing cars and trucks since i was 17 in 2001.

Let me know!  ;D
-Reid

How much? I'm at the other end of the 22, so not that far from you...


146
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Vacuum advance dizzy
« on: July 08, 2008, 10:05:46 PM »
Here is where it would help. Cruising the channel. Pulling the kids on a raft. Idling at the dock.

This would give it more of an advance at part throttle light load and give it better mileage and throttle response there. 

If you are the never see below 4000 RPM and always full tilt, it won't buy you anything.


147
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ** CAMSHAFT **
« on: July 08, 2008, 09:58:25 PM »
The duration at .050 is what matters, that sets the rpm range of the engine.

This is why duration to impeller is important, as well as limitations such as logs to the engine.

If you have a 280 degree @ .050 cam that sets the rpm range to 4500-8000 rpm, and then you use logs, and a AA impeller - the engine will never spin high enough to make the rpm range. That is over camming.

From what I've experianced a 225-235 degree duration cam is probably as much as you want to go on a stock engine (lower duration for taller impellor A4, A3, etc) , and up to 250 for a modified engine (better heads and such with a looser impellor). Start getting into headers, loose impellors, big heads, etc, and the duration can go up even further into the big HP numbers - BUT you have to be able to spin it up there. 


I personally am running 246 duration with logs and a 4.5 inch exhaust with an A. 


While my engine could physically handle a much bigger cam (duration), the logs will keep it from spinning in the sweet zone.


Duration @ .050 = rpm range
Adv duration - duration @ .050 = ramp velocity (smaller number makes more power)
Lift = HP

I look for the highest lift in the duration I want with the steepest ramp.




148
The No Wake Zone / Re: to the dude that owns the Slut Hunter
« on: July 08, 2008, 03:15:04 PM »
Let's see. Last time I took my boat out I repeatedly saw a bunch of drunk naked women.

Last time I went bike riding I was looking at some dudes ass for way too many miles.

I haven't ridden my bike in a while, but I sure do like taking my boat out.

Coincidence?

HMMM....



149
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Scat flexplate
« on: July 04, 2008, 02:16:26 AM »
SCAT - Slang for Sh*t.

Cracks me up everytime I see it....


150
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: another acc pump ????
« on: July 04, 2008, 02:13:30 AM »
Hey speedy,
I think I remember you posting in a different thread that you were having this same trouble (the engine would want to stall comming off of plane) and the problem was the power valve was too big and not closing??

Yes, the PV was opening at idle coming off of plane, so I dropped it down to a 6.5 (was 8.5) and it is better now. 

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