Need pics of what he found, really, there's a HUGE difference between residual condensation and an actual "milkshake". Been a victim of both.

The above reference is pretty good, but it may also depend on how you run the boat. Understand water in the oil system of ANY engine is worse than dirt in most cases. I remember years ago, my ex-g/f had a new Quad4 Pontiac Grand Am, Quick little focker, but the oil was "milkshaked" quite often. We had the oil changed like every month because of my thoughts on it. Finally, I went to the dealer with her, and they said "Just the nature of it, it'll be fine". I got them to change the engine. Still did it. Traded it in on a Turbo Grand Prix.........

I'm sorry, theres a little bit of water that is BOUND to get in these engines due to what we do, but cannot be more water than a street engine in a rainstorm or driven through snow.......... So, to my mind, any water evidence in an engine needs to be looked into. Blown head gasket? Reversion through the headers? (Which can likely only happen with high lift and duration cams with a lot of overlap), on a BBF, bad timing cover gaskets?........I can go on and on. I've always been one to figure out the "why's" of everything. Sometimes the "why's" are ok and normal, sometimes not........

Leakdown test should test the head gaskets, other than that, never had the opportunity to try this, but thought of it before, drain the oil, hook up an air compressor to the oil pressure sending unit location and then the dipstick tube and start spraying the engine down with a dishsoap solution...........

Ray

I got a set of Bassett's and a set of Rewarders.......Both clean up REAL nice! Rewarders used to be on Moo, Bassetts Nordie ran for awhile and looked like new when he had them..........the polishing nut! 

Ray

The both of you can kiss my ass. But I still love you guys. Jerks.......

Now THAT is Funny! 

Ray

Hey Glenn......
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/2297004270.html


Ray

Whats up with the Sleek? Kinda would like to see

pics of it as well! 

Ray

Got a pic of the back of it? Looks a LOT like my Saguaro............Which is a Biesemeyer clone........

Gayest paint ever?? Welcome to the site! You've got a bit to learn before THAT statement.......

Ray

Ray i am not a fan of your solder in this case, he is already having trouble and the solder could make it worse. For you or I or anybody with some experience i would'nt have a problem with it.

jmho
ralph

ps sombody from the vegas crew give this guy a hand already

Good point!   

Nordie! Go set this dizzy would ya?   

Ray

Pointing towards the #1 cylinder or the wire?  I turned the crank until the pin (on the top left side of pulley if looking straight at it) was directly on the 0* mark on the pulley.  I looked at the rotor and it looks as if it is right on the #1 cylinder plug wire, about 10'clock. 

Ignore the timing marks on the Dampner until you KNOW they are right.........Ralph has experience with this as well, but there's a lot of different dampners out there......etc, etc. Chased my tail for 2 days on one once...........

Pull the number 1 spark plug, have someone bump the engine over while you hole your thumb over the hole. when you feel the pressure (It'll be obvious), It's coming up on compression. Pull the number 6 plug, and you can use a good clean wire, I use solder, but put it in the plug hole on top of the piston while you crank it by hand watching carefully. Then when #6 starts to go back down, yes, drop the dizzy in with the rotor pointing at where the #1 spark plug wire attached to the dizzy cap.

IF you look at your dampner and timing pointer and it seems to register ok,good for you. Never works that way for me, so here's where a silver Sharpie marker is your friend. at this aforementioned point, put a line on the dampner right at your pointer. This is 10* BTDC. Rotate the engine over TWICE again with the solder in the #1 hole to determine true TDC and put another line on the dampner. THOSE marks come in handy with the timing lite later............

Ray

PS you could also just simply be 180* out as well........but I still do it my way every time. Sounds more difficult than it is.......

Everytime I've done a dizzy change in the 460 the same thing happens. It's the oil pump shaft not lining up with the dizzy after engagement. I use an oil pump primer to reach in and rotate the shaft a little to get it to line up. Probably what you did was jump a tooth or two on the dizzy gear, but then the shaft lined up.

Do as Ralph says. Get the number 1 cylinder coming up to TDC on compression stroke. Then watch #6. When #6 starts to go down, drop the dizzy in with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire (Should be towards the rear of the engine). You'll probably need to rotate the oil pump shaft with a priming tool or "Bump start" the engine (With the dizzy in as far as you can get it) to get it to drop in fully. Rotate the dizzy to make sure you're pointed RIGHT AT #1 and snug it up and light it. You'll be surprised how little it is out of time when you put a timing lite on it. 

Ray

Ain't missed it yet, not gonna start. Gonna bring 2 boats again.   

Ray

Speaking of cows.........I'm in for this one!

Whether Cows gonna make it or not, we'll see.............

Ray

What? there's no "eh" button??? 

LMAO, Good talking to you the other day with Harry and Danny Boy! Next time Gord! Actually, we may come your way soon! 

Ray

It is my humble opinion (and I like the sound of my own voice  ) that the line sizes depend on what type of fuel pump.

You can run smaller fuel lines with an electric gear pump, but a diaphragm mechanical sometimes requires a bit more line size because of the pulse of the fluid.

I think 3/8" is adequate in most cases, I would totally advise using USCG approved fuel hose though....

GT

I'm with Glen on this. Again........ I doubt very seriously that a 3/8 fuel line is the problem. Soft or not, ( it would act like it's out of gas at speed, or hiccup like crazy, if it were soft or not big enough  )

I've seen a 3/8 rubber fuel line feed a blown twin dominator deal! So forget that BS! 

You forget to mention what dizzy you have. I'd be more apt to beleive a vacuum advance, or another substandard unit. If the HP is there to drive an A to 5000-5500 RPM, then only the ignition, or remotely, possibly, the valve springs, are limiting you, all else being equal.

Get yourself a good Dizzy (Prior, PRE-TDRSALES days, these guys would say go MSD..........I say go Mallory Unilite) A good CDI Box, If you go Mallory, no better than their Hyfire 6AL.

At worst, if I'm wrong, you have a solid ignition for the right combination. All this provided you have the HP to turn an A to 5000+ RPM, mind you. THAT is paramount...........

Ray