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Messages - obnoxious001

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176
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Lean is MEAN
« on: August 10, 2011, 10:31:02 PM »
That sucks, hard to catch the "small" things like that.

My timing marker is 4* advance as well Barry, checked it at TDC and made a new mark.

I just put together a brand new all aluminum 621 cubic inch engine, with a brand new Milodon gear drive and ATI balancer.  The fixed pointer in the Milodon cover was 6 1/2 degrees retarded.  That one really surprised me with the high dollar parts,, but I went back and checked it several times to make sure.

177
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Lean is MEAN
« on: August 10, 2011, 09:19:29 PM »
I had an engine come to me once for a rebuild.  I was not the original builder.   When I put it back together I checked and found the timing mark (notch in the timing cover) was 6 degrees advanced.  Guess that explained the holes in two pistons (it was a blown engine)

178
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Lean is MEAN
« on: August 10, 2011, 12:43:22 PM »
This is what happens with a combo of too much timing, sub standard gas & a loose nut @ the wheel...

That's too bad,, did it get the block and head as well?

179
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: My Blower motor...Blew!
« on: August 09, 2011, 09:26:06 PM »
Ok, My new to me 78 Mariah Jet has a 468 inch Chevy with a 6/71. I've been having a backfiring issue I thought was ignition related. The previous owner left the distributor (Vertex Magneto) a little loose. Timing kinda crept waaaay up on me before I figured that out. Finally did a compression test and found two cylinders with 0 compression! I'll be taking it apart over the next few days - I'll report back. Ouch!
Ralph

Want to bet on burned pistons if the timing got too far advanced?  Hope it's not two adjacent cylinders,, that could be ugly if the block and/or heads got burned.

180
I was in Long Beach during the races and I did see one boat in the water, and the Race boats around Marine Stadium. I'm thinking, I'm so close why don't I put my boat in the Ocean as long as I stay in the break water I should be fine. What do you guys think about my shiny aluminum. Of course I will flush it and wash everything when I get home. But just flush it with straight water from the hose?

When we used to ski race in Mission Bay we would spray the engine down with WD 40 before launching, then soap and water wash when it got pulled out.  Tons of polished aluminum on the turbo engines, just got to get on it as soon as you pull the boat. 

181
It seems like most jet boats I see for sale have a big block.  Why is that?  I see a lot of "Olds 455" jet boats on craigslist by comparison say a ford 460 or chevy 454. 

Is a Chevy 454 a good motor for a jet boat?  I had a 350 small block in mind, but I would rather not get it all setup and then wish I had a big block.

I am looking to build a motor myself, it will be my third V8 and I want to make a motor that has a real snappy throttle response that sounds good but is not too loud. 

I won't be racing the boat. It is just an island cruiser that will hopefully gather a crowd.  There are not a lot of wicked boats around here any more because the sheriff tends to ticket speeders and noise.

Thanks again for your help

If you don't have any mounts or accessories for the boat to begin with, you will find that big block Chevy mounts and exhaust are the easiest to find

If you think about a basic, mild performance build that may yield around one horsepower per cubic inch, the logic of going with a 454 big block vs a 350 cubic inch small block is obvious, roughly 100 horsepower difference. 

"Noise" of the engine will be more related to the type of exhaust you run, although variations in displacement and compression will make distinct differences in the sound of the engine.

182
Thanks for the tips.  I figured it had something to do with the constant high RPMs. 

I keep seeing 4500 RPM everywhere I look, so that must be the magic number for jet drive boats?

The larger piston to wall clearance is more based on the freshwater cooling.  Piston manufacturers will normally recommend an additional .001"-.002" for a normally aspirated marine engine.

RPM depends  on horsepower and pump set up. 

Lots of mild BBC engines run around 5000 rpm with a fairly stock pump.  I have built a handful of Comp Jet circle race engines that turn around 6200-6500 with a cut down impeller.

183
First of all, I would not agree about that Jeg's "marine" engine being ideal for marine use.  Note that it has a cast crank, factory rods and hypereutectic pistons.   I normally would highly recommend forged components.

Marine engines have to be looked at differently than "street" engines for several reasons.  They run under a constant load,, no "coasting" at all,, let off the pedal the the boat stops moving.  Also, they routinely run about twice the rpm of a street vehicle.  My Chevy truck runs about 80 mph at 2500 RPM.  Depending on the particular boat and drive,,  2500 may be barely planing, and constant running RPM of 4000-5000 rpm may not be uncommon.

Due to the above mentioned facts about marine engines, and also the difference in block temperature between a street vehicle with a radiator that runs perhaps 180-200 degrees all the time, and a marine engine that may never reach those temperatures, piston to wall clearance is usually (always in anything I build) increased since the block is cooler(less expansion), and the pistons are hotter(more expansion).  Along with that, engine bearing clearances are typically "looser" for the extended higher rpm running and loads. 

184
Am I going to have to re-do the timing once I install this?

I would say that you should check it to be safe, not that hard to put a light on it and see where it is.

185
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: need a block
« on: July 26, 2011, 09:46:47 PM »
cool thx let me  from what i know the 366 is a tall deck and can be bored to fit the 427 pistons with no problem again thank you

Better check carefully about maximum bore on the 366, I have not heard of that being done.  Doesn't mean it's not possible, just make sure before you spend money on a 366 block.

186
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: need a block
« on: July 26, 2011, 05:19:17 PM »
any one out there know where to find a 366 or 427 block

Are you looking for a tall deck I would guess?  I haven't really heard of guys building performance engines based on a 366 block, but I may have a tall deck 427 block, once I decide which one I am using to freshen up my 505. 

187
The No Wake Zone / Re: waer ski ?????
« on: July 11, 2011, 12:46:07 AM »
my wife wants to learn how to water ski so i need to get some ski's. i would like to know what kind to get? i have looked at some ski's and i see the really wide ones wich to me would be easy for her to get up on?  she is 50 years old so this has to be pretty easy for her to do or she will just say forget it... i really need this to be enjoyable (?) for her ;) if we could get a set that would work for both of us that would be a plus and im 240lbs.

i have seen o'brian connley and other brands but am not sure how long they should be and so forth. what say you???

thanks ralph

Hey Ralph

Ideally you both want to get to one ski as soon as possible,, easier to control, easier on the back, etc.  You may both want to start on doubles, unless one or both of you is particularly coordinated or used to other "balance" sports. 

It's going to help a bunch if you have a good driver when you are learning, good observer won't hurt either.  Depending on where and when you plan on trying, I would be up for helping.  I am 5 minutes from Puddingstone, got an outboard ski boat that's tough enough to get me up wrapped up.  (Don't know if you are aware of my ski racing background?)

188
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HOLLEY 750 DOUBLE PUMPER
« on: July 07, 2011, 06:03:06 PM »
GOT A STOCK, HP 380 HP 454 WITH A QUADRAJET AND IM GONNA PUT A 750 DOUBLE PUMPER ON IT, AM I GONNA NOTICE A DIFFERENCE? :banghead:

I don't think you will see much, if any difference at all, unless there was a problem with the Quadrajet. 

189
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: wtb any 750 850's laying around
« on: June 16, 2011, 08:42:30 PM »
I have some carbs here, 850 double pump,, or 750 vacuum secondary, even a Barry Grant 825 with the interchangeable venturi.

190
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: gear drive in a jet boat
« on: June 15, 2011, 06:03:09 PM »
any reason not to run a gear drive in a jet boat?
i have always run them (quiet ones, still noisy) in all my motors never had any failures. they are pretty bullet proof. opinions?
chris.

I guess be careful of the "cheapy" ones,, I am putting a Milodon on a 621 cubic inch all aluminum engine that I am assembling (that will be turbocharged on E85 fuel). 

191
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: chrome plating
« on: June 15, 2011, 05:59:05 PM »
Who in socal do you guys use to do your re-chroming? I know for coating embee is the man but what about plating?

I think my polisher in Baldwin Park get get them chromed.  He used to have a plating business until regulations forced him to close.  He takes good care of my stuff.

192
Only two of your pan bolts will work at 1/4"-20, the ones into the timing cover.  The other 20 are going to be 5/16"- 18.  Other than that,, looks like your thread sizes are correct.

193
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Parts Polishing
« on: June 11, 2011, 11:31:12 AM »
Where?

I am in Glendora (So Cal),, maybe not so handy for you.

194
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Parts Polishing
« on: June 10, 2011, 08:02:27 PM »
The guy has a small, family run shop, does great work at fair prices, all of my stuff goes there, but I don't get that many parts done.

Talking to him today about a raw part I brought over for polish, he would make some good deals on production type stuff too.

195
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Parts Polishing
« on: June 10, 2011, 06:57:57 PM »
I have made a deal with my polisher to build an engine for his panel delivery truck in trade for polishing labor. 

Therefore,, if you need something polished I would be happy to get it done for you at "cost". 

In the past I have trusted him with some very expensive parts, and he has not let me down.  I am in the middle of finishing up a polished all aluminum 621 cubic inch engine and he did the block, heads, dry sump pan, and Milodon gear drive, but all of that was completed prior to our current trade arrangement.

196
Check for local industrial supply places or bearing places.  Someone will have individual o rings,, won't cost much, take yours and match it up.  I don't know any of the places out that way to send you to, but you should be able to find something. 

197
thanks for the tip. i havent used it yet so its gunna be a learning experience.

If you want more help,, PM for my phone number. 

You will want the valve covers off,, and if you have a deadblow or rubber mallet it can be helpful.

198
I got a leak down tester brandon. ....we'll check the compression too.

Hey Brad

You know to listen for where the air is escaping to determine what the problem is,,right?  Through the carb or exhaust for intake and exhaust valves,, but more likely in this case you will hear air in the crankcase indicating the rings.

199
So the new I just built las season seems to ave quite a bit of blow-by. Its a 468bbc,990 heads, Not positive on comp ratio. SLR cam, 500 lift. MSD ign. Wieand team G intake, holley 850.
I've got oil coming out of my breathers, I am going to setup a puke tank, but what can I do to not hide the problem, but fix it? Are new rings necessary?

You should leak down the engine to help determine how severe the problem is, and how consistent it is from one cylinder to the next.  Is the engine using much oil?

With proper breathers, you should not need a puke tank.

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