I am going to pull the distributor to inspect the gear and open the oil filter.

   I have a Spectra 20 460 with RPM manifold, edelbrock 750, logs, DUI HEI. Went out the other day, fired it up at the ramp, didn't notice anything wrong. Putted out, put it on plane, ran that way for about 1/4 mile, hammered it for a few seconds, brought it down to idle for a no wake zone and a faint ticking can be heard. Threw out the anchor and started searching. Checked oil level and it was just above add line. Put in a quart with no change in the noise. Pulled alt belt/ still there, pulled valve covers, all rockers are oiled and snug and lifters are tight, not able to push them in. Drove the boat back to the ramp, on plane, for about a mile and it seemed louder. Next day did some more troubleshooting on the trailer. Removed bell housing plate and could hear the noise but not coming from this area. Pulled the spark plugs with no sign of damage there. It sounds like it's coming from behind the timing cover, maybe?
 Has anyone had something like the cam, gears or distributor make noises or maybe it's a bearing? Oil psi looks good though. 

 I did a 3 degree difference when I put in my new stringers. Used a Harbor Freight angle finder. I also read that if it's inline with the jet shaft with no angle for the u-joints to roll that it may have a vibration.

Is there a better system than the hose barb style or I saw an npt to flare style? Both looked pretty twinkie. I wanted to use either braided teflon hose with an fittings or hard line and fittings throughout. The anti - siphon valves look so small, performance wise aren't looking too cool.
  There's got to be something that is still Coast Gaurd approved.

I was recently told that the Q-jet might not be able to cruise my boat at the 3000 rpm mark without cracking into the secondaries. I am also thinking that if I can score a deal on a used Performer RPM I can then go back and fourth with carbs because they both bolt right on.

  Brand new DUI HEI bottoming out, preventing the housing from rest on the block. I also noticed some other internals that looked not right. The studs that hold the weights are missing the c clips that keep them from lifting. Should the springs be similar in size? These are not, but maybe that's the way the setting is?
 I've read alot on different forums about Davis Unified and all good. It made me feel confident in spending what I considered a lot of money for an upgrade to my engine. It now looks as though I'll have to send it back for a second time. Very frustrating and time consuming.

After measuring and setting the gear position on the distributor itself, you need to physically check it in the block.  All blocks are not the same--some may have wear on the thrust pad, for example.

  I was thinking that the blocks might be different.
  What if I clean the oil off the area of the block that the gear rides on, put some ink or a magic marker on the bottom of the gear and quickly install the dist. in position, remove and look for ink on the block? If it leaves ink on the block and has some end play could it be called good or am I missing something?

 
 Measured the gear at: 4.035  with end play pulled,
                                  4.012  with end play pushed in.

 Factory wants  between 4.031 and 4.038. I'm perfectly in the middle.
 Wonder why my gear is wearing not in the middle and roll pin breaking?

 Drilling a hole would mean pulling the engine apart, I assume?
 When you say you've seen the thicker oils causing issues, is that on fresh water cooled boat motors or automotive?
 I want to make sure I can prevent this from happening with ny new HEI.

 I have a 460 with a Mallory magnetic distributor that's got about 3 short seasons on it. The roll pin broke recently and the gear is not a press fit now. Talking with a mechanic friend of mine, he says that the 20w50 valvoline racing oil in my jet boat never gets thin enough because of the lake temperature, causing constant stress to the gear and roll pin. He is not a marine or jet boat mechanic.
 I just ordered a Davis Unified HEI ( DUI ) because most of what I read seems that Mallory pins break more frequently or Mallory owners are just talking about this problem more than others.
 I have a bunch of the Valvoline Racing 20w50 because it is high in zinc for my non roller cam.
 Should I be concerned about the oil weight with my new distributor?

The bigger wires look to be 10 or 12 gauge.
Thanks for everything. I think I got a good handle of this.
I did read were some put a 30 amp fuse on the batt wire befor the relay.

 What about a part number for the relay or the size of amp?

 I see. Blue is 12v from relay and the red/pink is your tach, the other wires pictured in the distributor photo just go from the cap to the base, and then to the module I assume.