93' 454 Indomar Magnum Engine - Stock
Anyone have a part number?  Mine is a 3 prong, only 2wires hooked up to hot side of electric fuel pump.  It is mounted under the wiring block.
I found some universal ones at Jegs-
Took a shit in the garage right before getting ready to launch. Just jumpered it for now. But a hr of troubleshooting to find problem and chase 3 different color wire spices and in-line fuse in the loom running to it- 
Are you all running one or getting rid of this failure point?

JW

Will be cruzing all day Sat from BHC, to AVI to, Topock-
Anyone else going out?

JW

I'd clean them good and  throw a straight edge across them just to verify they're not bowed.  Then use a quality high temp silicone like Permetex.  Do a bead around each port, let it stand 5 or 10 minutes before installing them.  Then let them dry for 24 hours before starting the motor.  See if that doesn't seal better.

X2 -  check for being warped - especially since you've changed them 2x already

JW

https://www.nativeyewear.com/lifetime-warranty   

Try these folks- anytime I have a oooops with mine- Send them in and for $30.00 bucks I get a brand new set- Funny though I've only had to do this 2 times the last 4 years. 
Use to do it with Oakley's but unless they have changed their policy recently they no longer warranty broken units-

JW

Ordered my new Ignition to swap out the point distributor!!    really a '93 engine with points!!

JW

Progressive - 300,000 w/ 8,000 replacement coverage and with Boat tow coverage  $276.00 a yr. and yes the first question was does the Exhaust go over the transom- Reading above I now know why they asked-

JW

Let see- Left the squaws at home and went to river by myself-
1) Found issue with no engine temp- Rehooked up lines correctly, (tee to water pump inlets, not to thermo housing as it was) and added gate valve
2) Installed some inline silencers, (what a freaking bitch, stiff hose does not like to make a bend)
3) Replaced front bunks, as one floated away last time out
Test Drive Sat afternoon, launched at Jack Smiths Launch (won't bring up the float regatta) So drove down to Needles.
1) Adjusted the gate valve to get some heat at a idle, kept adjusting till I got some temp running, boat seem to run better as well
2) AHHH - I can hear myself think! (yeah I run mufflers in my race car too!!) I am 80's head banger, so my hearing is going 
3) Ran up past AVI 2-3 mi and shut her down after idling for a bit to see where the water temp creeps up to.
4) Floated and ate some lunch. Fired her up and turned around and was cruzin back. HMMM water in my Ski locker! Water coming out of bilge.
5)Check engine compartment and OH NO!  Water coming from somewhere
6) Found leak on main feed hose from pump, blew right through it, yeah the one I didn't change  (now getting a 2nd bilge pump) floated for a while to pump out water. Taped up leak (mental note to add hose to the spares box)
7) Mental note on the way back, Oil pressure is sure much higher, must be the water on the pan cooling it (oil is getting hot, adding a cooler)
Made it back but what a mess, pressurized water blew grease from jet all over the engine compartment. Previous owner greased like crazy but never wiped up extra.

Sunday morning got it all cleaned up and made notes so when the engine comes out, what is going to get changed/replaced over the winter-
Comments always encouraged!!

Floats this weekend.. anyone else have plans on being there?

I'll be out there working on the my boat Friday and Sat. Will eventually take a test drive at some point to test my upgrades
I launch from the BH City launch by the AZ memorial- Where do you all float down too?

JW

Patiently Waiting!  



JW

FYI- Just got my Bunk carpet  (100ft  roll)  from Amazon ordered cancelled because of CA EPA regulations!  What? According to shipper-
Also saw a few dealers online say no shipping to CA. Freaking Enviro-nazi's  strike again. 
Anyone hear about this?
Reordered from another company that uses Amazon to ship and now is on it's way (supposedly) but had to order (1) 12 ft roll that will take care of my immediate issue.  Prefer Amazon only cause I have a prime acct.

JW

I just switched reg on the new boat from AZ to CA and need to do this as well.

Bought easy off, but would love to hear from someone who's done it before as well!


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Yeah- I'm in the same boat!! Get it?  My new float came from AZ as well-
JW

I'm  running Amsoil 10/40 full synthetic in my blower motor.  I like the multi grade oil because the 10 weight is much easier on the motor during start up.  I'm not trying to  push snot through my bearings when the oil's cold.  Let's face it, in boating most of us don't properly warm our motors before we go out past the 5mph buoy and hammer the throttle.  The big number, 40wt or 50 wt depends on how the motor was built to me.  Tighter clearances, I'd run the 40wt, looser, or more precisely looser clearances and more heat as in Jakes race motor I would run a 50wt. Motor clearance and heat are the main determining factors to me on how thick of an oil, viscosity wise, I would run.   Straight weight oil is old technology, multi grade's have been what manufacturers have been using for 25 years now.  It's also what most major racing teams in organizations like NHRA, Nascar, and USAC, run.

As far as Delo, or Rotella oils go, I know a few guy's that swear by them, but I've also been warned about running them in a motor that's high revving above 4000 rpm as they have a tendency to foam.  Foam doesn't pump real well.

Just my Opinion.

A lot of NASCAR / Sportsman classes  run Diesel oils. Of course they run dry sumps, so no issue with foaming. The additives in diesel oil allow it to protect in the dirtiest of environments. Personally I use 15-50 mobile 1, the is the only Mobile 1 with zinc in it. Also as someone mentioned. Test your oil and you'll find that the oil change periods can be pushed out much farther once you get a baseline with the combo of filter and oil you prefer. Here is a site with the most extensive research on oils and filters. Knowledge is the best way to see what suits you. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

JW

sooo im taking her out to berryessa this sat..fresh rebuilt 454  did a break in at home on the hose ..i kno i kno hose...but regardless im goen for sure...any tips for how to go easy on motor or NOT would be greatly appreciated from all you seasoned folks on here..🍺

Been there done that as far as breaking in a motor, done it at the track. Here's what I would do. comments or corrections not taken personally!  ha!
I'd go out early - I am assuming timing is all set where you want it and the oil has been changed since your initial start up, if not plan on changing it. Good rings will break in fairly quickly on a normally aspirated motor with dino oil.
 1) run the motor at 2000-3000 under load for 10-15 min. Cruze!!  No full throttle, check all gauges constantly and turn off at any sign of issues - Come in and make sure no leaks (oil or water) ( Might even pull the valve covers to take a quick look - my preference depending on valve train)
 2) Go back out and run again at various rpms' but still no full throttle idle-4k for another 10-15 mins (adjust your water flow for the temp you are looking for)- bring back in and inspect again. Idea being get the motor use to coming off idle to various rpms.
 3) Now you are ready for some good passes at various RPM's and full throttle stabs. Do that for 15-20 mins and come in and inspect.
that should do if for your initial break in, I would keep it conservative the first weekend out but put time on the motor-
If you do not change the oil at least change the filter, you will be surprised how much lint from rags and towels end up in motors sometimes, not to mention silicone sealant.
Be prepared for some adjustments, timing , valve adjustment, carb etc.
Spun a rod bearing in a new 4 banger race motor cause of silicone while on a chassis dyno.
Good luck and have fun!

JW