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Messages - 77Galaxie

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26
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / 460 ford ring gap
« on: April 23, 2016, 05:14:44 PM »
What would be the proper ring gap for a 60 over piston rings? Attached are the Pistons I'm using.


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27
Never thought about that. That could contribute to the engine I'm rebuilding. Usually when it happens it stalls and I have to crank it a couple times almost like it's running out of fuel. When it stalls it's usually at higher speeds (although it cut out at lower before) but last time it did it to me I was able to kind of pump the throttle to keep it going but eventually stalled. I've had this issue for about 2 years and still chasing it down. I'm doing an engine rebuild, new carb rebuild and changing all the fuel lines and fuel fittings. I've even thought of changing to an electrical fuel pump cause of the very slight possibility of vapor lock with the hopes that something I'm doing changes the problem.


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28

I put a new jegs electric fuel pump with regulator on mine a few months back seems to work fine and only 85$ I'm running a 454 with a 177 blower 800 cfm holly about 5300 rpm on a good day


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Do you run a switch to your pump?


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29
I'm going to replace all my fuel line but it seemed pretty rigid when I pulled it all out


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30
I'm thinking of running an electric fuel pump online with my mechanical one. I'm trying to cancel out an issue I've been trying to chase for the past couple years (boat stalling mainly at high speeds). I put vents in the caps, rebuilt carb and checked for any leaks in my fuel pickups. Anyways, what's everyone's idea on this and should it go between the tanks and the mechanical pump or between the mechanical pump and the carb?

 


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31
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Exhaust to snail seal...
« on: April 20, 2016, 11:25:47 AM »
I took all bolts out of the exhaust to put new ones in and got the surfaces refaced. I'm looking for a quality gasket that can withstand the heat from exhaust and water from the header. Specifics would be appreciated!


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32
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Exhaust to snail seal...
« on: April 15, 2016, 06:38:50 PM »
Thanks for all the input!


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33
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Exhaust to snail seal...
« on: April 15, 2016, 05:18:53 PM »
I've got a pair of water jacketed exhaust for my boat and I've been having a hell of a time getting a good seal between the exhaust and the snail. Any ideas on what kind of gasket I can use. I forget what I am using not but clearly it sucks cause it's leaking now. Ideas? Resurface the faces?

Thanks!


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34
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 14, 2016, 10:21:04 AM »
Bump


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35
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 11, 2016, 10:14:00 AM »

That's the aftermarket retarded chain setup I said to watch out for, or at least phase correctly, when I stated:

The timing chain should have 3 keyways in its lower gear.  If not, then purchase one that does have at least 3 keyways. Then phase the cam back to the "straight up" position than the retard position as shown in the picture.  (As marked, the crankshaft is actually advanced but the results are the same.)


The lower gear DOES have 3 keyways in it. I have the gear shown in the previous picture as well as one with the keyway lining up with the "o". Is there a preference as to which one I should use? Also, stupid question but this is the first time doing this. What would be considered "straight up"?
Thank you for your help




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36
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 10, 2016, 02:58:33 PM »

Maybe I'm misinterpreting the webpage in the link you provided (or how the cam grind might be handled via your phone call), but the possibility of configuring a camshaft directly from that webpage and which would be considered truly "customized" leaves a lot to be desired in the majority of jet boat engine builds and applications.  Also, relative to your (presumed) OEM rebuild the heads will require machining of the valve guides in order to accommodate a camshaft with that much valve lift.  Overall the shelf cam from Comp (in your first link) is better suited thus far; even if it is smaller the overall profiling is much better, generally speaking.

Now if your engine is going to be rebuilt to specifications other than OEM and you're willing to get that extra head machining done (it isn't costly at all) then you can certainly go bigger.  Even under those circumstances it's not likely I'd go with what I saw in your most recent link; a direct phone call to the grinder would be the way to go.  That being said, I rarely, rarely see custom cam grinds for iron headed 460 powered jet boats that I feel are ideally suited for the customer's (and engine's) needs. ..sorry but it's true.

We can profile and deliver a superbly suited custom cam and lifter set for a 460 powered jet boat if you feel like shopping around.  Just do your shopping first, then call us.  If I feel that you've already been provided with a profile that will suit your particular build then I'll advise you to buy it. If not, then I can sell you one.

LakesOnly I went with that first cam from CP. You have any input on the marking on my motor??




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37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 10, 2016, 08:23:25 AM »
As I'm tearing down my boat we can across this when we pulled the timing cover off. You can see that "o" is facing straight down to the keyway of the cam gear and the "o" on the crank gear it off set 1 tooth I believe retard. Any ideas why this could be I've been doing some research and people were saying it was set this way because of compliance. Any ideas?
Thanks!


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38
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 05, 2016, 01:44:48 PM »
Let me double check the specs on my engine. When I talked to him at his shop I talk him the pump I'm running with the impeller as well as what headers I run (logs) and with that he gave me that info. Now I don't know much about this stuff yet but it sounded to me like he knew what he was talking about.


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39
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: April 05, 2016, 12:32:47 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I'm also looking here around town at our local shops that grind their own cams. I talked to the main man over here at Clay Smith Cams.

http://www.claysmithcams.com/h-280-8-bhl-hydraulic-flat-tappet-camshaft/


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40
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / 460 build
« on: April 05, 2016, 08:47:39 AM »
I'm working on putting a rebuild motor back together for the season and want to throw the correct cam in it. I was looking at comp camp off of cp performance. (http://www.cpperformance.com/p-11679-comp-cams-cam-lifter-kit.aspx)

Not looking for huge power just like to cruise most of the time.

Any ideas other than this or some input on whether it's a good can or not?

Thanks


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41
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: August 25, 2015, 07:53:40 PM »
I have a pertronix kit with a blaster coil. I don't think I'd be losing spark for only part of the time. Like I said it only did it to me for about 3 times consecutive and then it stopped for the rest of the day

42
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: August 25, 2015, 07:46:20 PM »
No it'll happen while I'm hold it down and all the sudden the tack just drops and it tries to die

43
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: August 25, 2015, 07:42:44 PM »
They're full

44
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: August 25, 2015, 07:25:10 PM »
Yes, I've done everything that I am think of myself. Just trying to get other points of views on it

45
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: August 25, 2015, 06:27:44 PM »
So to update you guys on this topic I took my boat out this past weekend after venting both of the tanks and putting a higher rate mech. Fuel pump in. Boat still started to stall on me on my way up to topock. I was able to pedal through it and get it to idle and then full throttle again. This happened to me about 3 times. ( I even opened up my gas cap when it was happening). After it happened for that period of the time I didn't have another problem with it for the rest of the trip. I made it to pirates cove and back no problem. Any ideas? Maybe vapor lock? Not sure where to go from here

46
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: July 06, 2015, 11:25:54 PM »
Ya, it's been a real pain in the butt. What throws me off is that it's not a consistent problem. Sometimes it's worse than others. It'll happen every time I go out but won't happen every day. Maybe once a trip. Also, I just recently took my pickups out and they don't have checks in them. I did notice that my coil was pretty hot. Does that have any relevance to my problem? 

47
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: July 06, 2015, 09:20:52 PM »
I'm running 3/8 line everywhere. I just did a rebuild on my holley (750) thinking that was the culprit but alas it wasn't. I took the whole fuel filler assembly out of my boat today and I don't see any difference in suction between both passenger and driver side but I'm still going to tap into the side of the filler cap and but a vent line in. I just don't know where to put it where it won't get too wet. Any thoughts??

48
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: July 06, 2015, 04:48:20 PM »
Ya I thought about running it with the cap open but out there on the lake a full throttle I didn't want to take any chances on water getting in the tank or fuel going everywhere in the boat or on people!

49
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: July 06, 2015, 04:12:25 PM »
Okay great! I'll get the venting issue worked out first and report back with issues if any! Thanks a lot for the help!

50
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 Ford stalling at high RPM
« on: July 06, 2015, 03:15:33 PM »
I was told that the primary (front) bowl will be empty when at high RPM and since it dies at high RPM it would be empty in that case and it will be running on the rear bowl.
is this correct?

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