let me know if anyone needs one.
make offer

chris

You have something in your drive shaft geometry completely FUBAR..

A typical drive line can go thousand of hours with minimal maintenance without failure at 500+HP

I'm with ka0tyk  Need pics........even with the puked joint... Carnage, we like carnage.

We call this "the smoking gun"...How were they adjusted?

Rebel I have 3 or 4 sets of TT's if you want to work something out PM me you number. Howard I have 3 jet boats and I don't want to stress the hulls any more than they have been in the past.

I have a chevy 350 with a jacuzzi jet pump. The carb came off a car (I am told) and I would like to replace it with something a little more user friendly since it doesnt have any manual adustments, just metering rods. If I go Holley, should I put a 650 ot 750 (spread bore)  or what else out there is user friendly?

Thanks

I don't understand; where are we in disagreement?

LO

so it doesnt have an exterior switch to start the fuel pump, did the fuel pump ever turn on when you would turn your key to the run position? If it used to turn on when you turned it to the run position and it doesn't now your fuel pump is probably going out or your ingintion switch is going out. Its hard to say because your pictures dont show where the fuel pump is getting its power from. You need to chase the hot wire on your fuel pump and find out where it goes. Make sure its hooked up properly, power and ground. If it is, again its your pump. Idk, its hard to tell until you do more homework.

The above picture shows the first design by TRW and goes back to the 1980s, and it shows the latest design as offered by SpeedPro.  I'm pretty sure there are two revisions between the first and last versions shown above (a total of four L2443 designs).  Changes include shortenting the skirt, changing the pin clip groove design (and clip type), changing the valve pocket, relocating the ring pack, etc. Some of these changes took place after a discussion with the product line manager at SpeedPro.

Both of the pistons pictured above have features that I personally don't care for. If it were me and I had a choice only between the two pistons shown above, I'd opt for the early TRW design even though it has the long skirts.  But the L2443 that I really like is one that was offered by Federal Mogul/SpeedPro between the two above examples. The one I like had its skirt shortened, still had the square-cut clip grooves, was American-made through-and-through, etc.

You bring up a good point. With the frying pan analogy. The only thing is, the frying pan Isn't trying to tear its self apart the whole time it is in use. (centrifugal force) I know the tolerances are tight and it shouldn't matter but it does. The harder the motor is spun the more cf is being put on those Teflon inserts, they will wear against the case and eventually wear out. 


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If it were my motor, I would go a good forged bottom end, with forged h beams and a solid forged blower piston with total seal rings. I agree that if it will see road use, the billet and fancy light weight parts have no place on the car. Also would not run a Teflon insert blower on a street car either but to each his own. My dad has a Kuhl supercharger and it is most definately a better unit than a weiand and the like. Again my .02


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