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Messages - obnoxious001

Pages: 1 ... 11 12 [13] 14 15 ... 19
301
Boat Racing / Re: Black Lake Wa.
« on: July 11, 2010, 04:38:02 PM »
Sunday results (taken from PB)

Day 2 in the books!

Heat 1
1) mark moyle (broke a lifter)
2) loius Schindler
3) Ron Lund
4) Terry valore

Heat 2

1) loius Schindler
2) Terry valore
3) Ron Lund
mark moyle (dns)

I say Louis had team orders not to pass the boss!

302
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC CRANK hunt
« on: July 07, 2010, 12:23:56 PM »
Quote from: Bull20 on June 30, 2010, 04:23:18 PM
Looking for 454 - 4.00 forged crank shaft.

I have 2 or 3 of them here, but hard to beat $400 for a new one

303
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: BBC Main Housing bores.........( 2.937 0/10 - 2.938 0/10 ) WTF!
« on: May 13, 2010, 10:48:33 PM »
 

So besides being out of round, tapered and oversized to boot?  Were 4 and 5 ok or progressively worse?

304
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Good Cam ?
« on: May 13, 2010, 07:01:48 PM »
I can work with you on a cam that may work a little better, based on your combination of parts.  I will PM my phone number.  Are you planning on doing any pump modifications to get to the 5500 RPM?

305
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Which head gasket??
« on: May 02, 2010, 09:45:44 AM »
Quote from: Sanger Pete on May 01, 2010, 09:52:38 PM
Did I hear of a problem with a Gen 6 block and mark IV style heads, and having to do something special to make them work right?
No answers, just a question.
Pete

The Gen 6 was modified by GM to correct cylinder head compatibility issues the Gen 5 blocks had.  Using the proper Gen 6 style gasket should allow MK IV heads to work without issue. 

Also, unless I am wrong a 17040 "marine" gasket is a 1047 in a different package (at least the gaskets are stamped 1047, and 1047's are noted as being "suitable for marine usage)

306
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: what kind and what size carb for my boat
« on: April 29, 2010, 12:28:09 PM »
Quote from: 1982 on April 28, 2010, 08:15:58 PM
now you guys have me thinking about the actual horsepower of my motor? the guy who built the motor told me "500 hp no problem" I feel that estimate is quite a bit high, anyone else have a similar set up?

That would be 1.25 horsepower per cubic inch, which is obtainable, but I would bet not with your combination of parts, cam, heads, exhaust logs.  If I were building something similar for a customer, I would be more inclined to think possibly 1 horsepower per inch or less.

307
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: what kind and what size carb for my boat
« on: April 22, 2010, 01:41:55 PM »
Quote from: IRRebel on April 22, 2010, 12:18:03 PM
That is good info! But honestly, I don't think any of us squirt gun guys should be running less than a single 750? Am I wrong Barry? Given the real operating range of these things, and the 850 being the normal recommendation?  Understand, and correct me if I'm wrong, CFM rating has NOTHING to do with fuel consumption. It is simply how much air a carb CAN flow at MAX. Yes, way too much CFM carb for an application, a boggy engine, I get that, but that is an extreme.

Just thinking out loud, but at a pretty consistent 4000-5000 rpm, which seems to be where our benchmark and operating range is, all the street calculations go out the window anyway. Fuel economy is only going to be saved by starving the said engine, if it wants more, That will show up sooner or later in the plugs, or later in a blown up engine.

Properly tuned, yeah, therein lies the key where an overly large carb can be detuned somewhat. It's in the tune, and reading the spark plugs!

Barry's the pro, I'm leaving it there, but I agree 750 is where ANY big block Jet Boat should be to start with.

Ray

I don't ever claim to anyone to be an absolute expert, but I do have some experience and knowledge to base my statements on.  Both of my posts actually indicated that I would use a 750 on a 396.  Larger engines may use more, the last 468 I built got a new Quick Fuel 850 on it (850 was the consensus of both Quick Fuel and Holley techs based on what I was doing with that engine, which made 600 HP) 

It would be interesting to know what RPM that engine will turn, didn't sound like more than a 1 HP per cubic inch deal just by rough guess. 

308
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: what kind and what size carb for my boat
« on: April 22, 2010, 12:18:58 AM »
Quote from: beerjet on April 21, 2010, 12:37:26 PM
My original set up was a 454 - 049 heads - 304 soilid flat tappet cam and hauled ass with a 750 vac sec. that was set up to open pretty early.
Didnt notice a huge gain with 850 dp but there was a gain, if you want to call gas milage going down a gain  :-\
Not to mention you'll get better throttle response with the smaller carbs.
There is a formula based off of ci and rpm to get you in the ball park as to what carbto run.
Maybe Barry knows what I'm talking about if not, I'll hit my crew chief up.
 
-beerjet-


Yes, I am aware, that type of calculation gives a theoretical minimum size.    I would agree that around 400 HP is the realistic number, assuming pump gas and the stated "mild" cam.  With the A impeller, it's not going to want to pull too many RPM, so probably even a 600 cfm carb would work.   The  calculator shows 581 CFM for 5000 rpm, 402 cu in (.030" over 396), based on 100% VE (doubt that it's that efficient). 

All that being said, I might still put a 750 on it.

309
WTB / Re: WTB BBC .060 454 pistons!!
« on: April 21, 2010, 10:22:07 PM »
Quote from: Marcsrollin on April 21, 2010, 12:19:42 PM
Can you post up a pic of the bad one so we can see how bad it is?

That won't be necessary, it's not usable.  Engine dropped a valve,, got a hole in it slightly larger than the 3/8" valve stem would make.  New one is $51.99 at Summit.  Compression should be just over 10-1 with 119 cc chamber heads.

310
WTB / Re: WTB BBC .060 454 pistons!!
« on: April 21, 2010, 11:40:04 AM »
Quote from: Marcsrollin on April 20, 2010, 08:41:06 PM
Please let me know what you have and how much you want for them. They are for a friend who has very little money and am trying to help him out.

I have a set of 2465 .060" forged TRW for $75 will need one new replacement (around $50 I think).

311
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: what kind and what size carb for my boat
« on: April 20, 2010, 11:04:03 PM »
Quote from: 1982 on April 19, 2010, 10:27:10 PM
I am getting ready to put my motor in my 19' jet boat, the motor is a 396 with a decent cam ( on the higher scale of "mild" but not radical) the motor is balanced and according to the machine shop will make 500 hp no problem, I think realistically 400 -450 hp, I had a circle track BLP 800 holly that I had a carb shop rebuild with marine components, I ended up selling it because I really just wanted a brand new carb. I am now ready to pull the trigger and buy one, I'm not fixed on brand new, now after I see hollys are 500+ bucks, but I will spend it if I have to. my  question is what kind and what size would best suit my needs? 19' hardin caribbean w/ a berk "A" pump I am looking for a general all around perf and milage set up anybody else have something similar or experience with different carbs that can give me some good pros and cons? or just your opinion is appreciated too thanks, Mike

I don't think the 396 needs an 850 cfm carb.  If you have any plans of upgrading to a a little more engine in the future, the 850 would be nice, but otherwise I think it's overkill.

Some years ago I built a mild 454 for my friend's jet boat, perhaps in the same horsepower range, 049 oval heads.  It had a 715 (that's right, 715, not 750) cfm Holley, ran great, right around 62-63 mph,, heavy 20' open bow boat.  Without asking me, he went and bought a new 850 carb after he had run the boat a year or so, picked up ZERO speed with the larger carb, even after leaning jets down, etc.

I also build dirt track circle race engines, and we have found 850 carbs to be less than ideal on them, preferring 750 cfm.  Not that the 850 didn't run, but in the midrange it was not as good.  We have run 383, 386 (3 9/16" stroke with 4.155" bore), and 406 cu in, higher compression (average 13-1), perhaps 500 plus horsepower, up to 7000 rpm

312
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Mag F/S
« on: April 18, 2010, 09:29:27 PM »
somebody was looking for one over on PB Omar...

313
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Busted Rocker
« on: April 16, 2010, 10:20:31 AM »
Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on April 16, 2010, 06:39:55 AM
brand new set of pro-comps....

Brad,, I think you have located the problem.  While I have used some Pro Comp stuff on occasion, I have located quite a few problems with their parts.  They are pretty good about warranty replacement, or perhaps even a refund or credit towards something else if you don't want to risk another set of their rockers. 

We had one set of sbc on a dirt track engine that didn't outright fail, but the bearings felt lousy after only a couple of races (40-50 miles total I think).  They replaced them, basically no questions asked, and we did not use the "free" set, bought another brand.

314
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: need tech help
« on: April 07, 2010, 09:30:59 PM »
The only thing I can think of is if there was not adequate endplay for the driveline, causing the rear main bearing to fail, and debris circulating through the engine.  If you call me we can discuss what was common between the 3 engine failures.  Phone number was sent by PM on the other site.

315
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley 750 DP
« on: March 31, 2010, 02:23:26 AM »
Quote from: funnynitts on March 30, 2010, 12:28:56 PM
Hey guys, I'm new to the jet boats and until a few days ago i didn't even know there were marine carbs, lol. Anyway i have a Holly DP that needs rebuilt. I'm wondering if there is a difference in the rebuild kits between a Auto and marine carb? Any information is greatly appreciated.

It will use the same kit.  A Holley "marine" carburetor has a little different metering to handle the load of a boat, and then of course the visibly obvious "J" tubes for the vents that are used to keep sloshing fuel from being spit straight up, presumably to help prevent a fire in the boat.

316
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Intake Bolts
« on: March 28, 2010, 05:04:39 PM »
Quote from: SuperDuty on March 22, 2010, 09:04:12 PM
Has anyone else had this problem? I ordered a Intake bolt kit off jegs and the bolts are too short. I cant seem to find the right ones in a kit anywhere. Im just looking for some chrome or coated bolts. The ones I bought are an Inch and a quarter long and a couple grab maybe 2 threads and a few dont even thread up. I have stock heads with an Eldelbroke Performer 2.0. Any advice?

1 1/4" would be the normal length for a BBC intake manifold, unless it's a tall deck.  You didn't say anything about what your engine is?

317
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HEI ingnition.
« on: March 28, 2010, 04:57:07 PM »
Quote from: Danger731 on March 28, 2010, 04:47:39 PM
The white wire goes to S on the starter the purple wire is not connected on a HEI ? , am I correct ? I'm hopin this is the case, that I have a HEI cause the puple wire is cut 12 inches from the starter. Who ever added the HEI to the boat just snipped it. This boat is a wire nightmare.

The HEI only requires an ignition hot (on with key switch) to run, along with a tach lead if desired.

318
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: ?? question on getting rings to seat??
« on: March 21, 2010, 03:30:11 PM »
Quote from: CHROMEY on March 20, 2010, 12:39:27 PM
i got another motor in my cruiser...had been sitting for a while, runs good but am getting blowby i think.....oil is pushing out the dipstick tube and making a mess and alittle bit of smoke and oil splatter out of the breather filter....just looking for some input or ideas to get it to stop.......thanks in advance

Not sure you have spelled out the entire story.  This engine was new or used prior to "sitting for awhile"?  My first guess is that you have a ring issue, but really can't guess why without at least a little more information.  Do you have a PCV valve and one single breather?  Check the PCV valve to make sure it's working, and the vacuum line to it is not cracked.  It's possible that corrosion and/or rust might have the rings sticking, or caused the rings not to seal to the cylinders.  A leakdown test would help confirm that the problem is rings or not.  

If the rings are bad, you will be pushing crank pressure past them, and you can either pull it apart and fix the problem, or you could band aid using a puke tank instead of breathers.    

319
WTB / Re: wtb bbc motor
« on: March 11, 2010, 01:17:29 AM »
Quote from: Bigblock92557 on March 01, 2010, 09:18:41 PM
looking for a fresh BBC................. :banghead: four bolt main.....summer is around the corner

I may be able to  do something for you, depending on what you are looking for.  PM your phone number to me if you like, or I will send you mine.  I just completed a pump gas 468 for a customer that dynoed at 600 HP.

320
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Cam Button Install Help
« on: March 07, 2010, 05:37:36 PM »
Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on March 02, 2010, 11:25:12 AM
so is this a roller cam only deal? or should i be installing this for my solid flat cam?

Brad,, I am a couple of days late, but I like the idea of using a cam thrust button with any cam.  Not so much for the possibility of wear, but to keep the ignition timing from bouncing around too much. 

There are a number of different cam buttons and lock plates.  The lock plate should be large enough to go over the thrust button, but small enough to hold it in place once it's bolted tight.  The thrust buttons come in several different lengths, I keep several on the wall so I can usually make something fit without too much grinding.  The newer polycarbonate plastic ones are pretty cool, since they are easier to remove material from than the aluminum ones,, or in your case, the steel one with the thrust bearing in it. 

I use a dial indiator, either on the rear of the cam (I leave the rear cam plug out until I remove the engine from the stand), or sometimes on a lobe of the cam through the valley if it's not screened.  I usually go for under .010" thrust.  Recently I have started to use the Cloyes aluminum timing covers with the built in thrust, adjustable after the cover is installed.  T

321
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: i need a quick answer!!!
« on: January 14, 2010, 11:48:56 PM »
If you have a 4-5" micrometer, you can measure your own pistons and specify finished bore size based on specs that come with the pistons.  For a normally aspirated marine engine, I normally add .001 since the block stays cooler than a street engine due to the constant supply of fresh cold water, and the pistons probably carry more heat due to running roughly double the normal rpm of a street engine.  You could call the company who made your pistons and ask them as well.

322
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: anybody try a ebay 460 motor
« on: December 26, 2009, 03:04:00 PM »
Quote from: LakesOnly on December 25, 2009, 03:07:51 PM
I would be curious what will be done to your engine for just $2000, as that is pretty damn inexpensive. LO


I was guessing that was a labor only quote on rebuilding his, not including parts, since no one I know can tell what needs to be done to an egnine without first taking it apart?

I guess it could be some kind of rebuilt longblock like some of the auto parts stores sell,, not much quality in those, certainly not something I would recomend in a jet boat that runs about twice the rpm level of a normal street engine.

323
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: I'm baffled...
« on: December 04, 2009, 09:57:49 PM »
Quote from: Luckie Stiff on December 04, 2009, 03:56:06 PM
I'll know next week if this solved the problem or not. It's not a big deal, my boat has killer oil pressure and it flings it like mad in the rocker cover, it's got to go somewhere, it found my vent and oiled my boat down. I'll keep you posted on how it works...

Skip.... this may be a silly question, but you do have the original foam inside the breather when you run it?  If so, I  would suggest a leak down test on the engine.  There are tons of those old M/T type valve covers with that same moon type breather in that center location that work fine.  Gale Banks used to put those on all his turbo engines, most had the M/T milled out and that same breather setup in the center.

324
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Fresh 468 shortblock kit $1400
« on: November 22, 2009, 09:33:53 PM »
Ok,, still have these parts sitting here, will probably go ahead and assemble after next weekend.  $1600 for the assembled shortblock.

325
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC 427
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:35:44 PM »
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