no biggie to pop the upper control arm off...especially when you need an alignment anyway! like i said if that was the biggest problem i am happy with that....

I'd go ahead and change out the other 2 ball joints as well, soon, and get a good alignment! Don't wanna ruin your girls new shoes!

ray

Was looking for a used one on the scoop.

Nordic454 was selling a scoop awhile ago for a pretty good price. Dunno if he sold it or not. I assume you're talking about the butterfly scoops patterned after the Enderle hat? Nordie would know! 

Yeah, as far as cables, just go new G. Tom Manier at JPB or Jim Brock at Cyclone Speed and Marine. Not worth saving a buck or two to be stuck floating down river or in the middle of the lake over $20 or so. (I'm not sure either of them will even SELL you a used one for that matter. They save them for their personal machines, or toss them, correct me if I'm wrong).

Guages, not much help. Keep watching the FS listings here and on PB, but you're probably going to wind up just buying a matched set new. I've scored a couple deals that together made the complete new set I wanted, with a few extra and saved a buck, but thats a year of playing around and planning ahead.

Ray

The Firebird 400 made me throw up in my mouth a little......Not to bad til the A-pillar.......Rest of it is a shame, but didn't look unfixeable from what I saw at a glance. (As a buyer though, there was a LOT of Bondo showing on a few of those!)

I doubt the owners of these cars, or the event as I understand it, carried the insurance coverage the guys do for Barrett-Jackson either.

Some Fire Sales there maybe??

Ray

Ah yes, the infamous RGPS (R for retarded) Ray, you need to run that thing over with your truck, really.

Bought a new one last week Skip. Was thinking of running this one through the jet pump for shits and giggles........

Ray

Lol! I'll be 46 next Sunday, going on 21 for the umpteenth time! 

We AIN'T OLD! Tell myself that every day I get up, and every day, I'm still able to, will feel the same way.

BBF/BBC?? Who cares? I'm a switch hitter there anyway.

Chicken and the egg? Again, who cares? Both are tasty prepared right! 

Ray

you make make me laugh at some of the shit you say

LOL! Gonna be more than a jet boat and 2 dudes......Could be a canoe and one guy plays the banjo.........................

Ray

What are the model indicators under the crane (open the Cylinder) on the frame?

Looks like a std. issue 6" model 10 to me in about 65% condition (maybe). No offense, please understand this is something I do know! Be more than happy to research it further though. Worth a bit more as a Victory Model, but only the serial number will tell that.

Ray

Good luck Josh, I hope you nail it

Me too!    But this Duramax sounds like something noone should be DIY'ing to me after all this!

Not to say Nordie wasn't screwed by the initial diag at the dealer, mind you! 

Ray

If it turns out to be the return lines, you KNOW Skip and I are gonna laugh hysterically, right?

Ray

I believe it has to do with the diesel motor they originally came on. The 71 series diesel motors were 71 cubic inches per cylinder. so the 6-71 came on the 6 cylinder and the 8-71 came on the 8 cylinder and so on and so on.

Exactly right.  Be careful of the 6V-71, 8V-71 etc. Not the same animal.

thanks skip now does it matter what size pulley goes where? the reason i am asking is because willis has a real big pulley on the crank and a small one on the blower. The boys were giving him a hard time about it.

ralph.....overdrive/underdrive . =  it's the same principal as a naturally aspirated engine....To Low or To High C/R.

Depends on what u wanna build

1 to 1 is when both pulleys are the same size (Usually counting the gilmer teeth). Overdrive is the crank pulley larger than the blower pulley, and vice-versa. 1 to 1 Almost never used for our purposes. HdRider can explain all this much better than me, but I'll give it a shot. When to underdrive/overdrive really has to do with PSI of pressure induced at what rpm and the compression ratio of the host engine and cylinder pressures.

It's all about efficiency of the system for it's intended purpose.

Perfect, for the street or us, would be where your boost guage holds a pre-determined PSI reading across it's used rpm band, and cylinder pressures are not near excessive for the hardware in the bottom end. (More PSI for a lower C/R and less PSI for a higher C/R). Over/Underdriving becomes somewhat of an experiment for most of us to get there, but others, (Barry, Dave, Tom, etc) have the experience to get it right on a guess usually.

As far as Willis, depends on how much o/d it really has. If it's a huge difference, he could be spinning the blower nearly twice for every revolution of the crank which is going to wear the blower out but QUICK! I would think. He needs a bigger blower and probably more compression. Also, the faster you spin a blower, the more HP it takes at that speed, to spin it and the less effective it is! Could be why he's being given a hard time.

Then theres straight cut and helical cut rotors, sealed oil systems or shared.........etc, etc, lol.

Ray

Holley? Can if a 4150, but not a 4160. Dunno with as cheap as carbs are out there that it's worth the hassle tho.

Ray

Ray did you find your keys lol

Yes I did. Not in the normal place, or even the suspected one in this case, but the history of me and my truck keys, including peer intervention, has exceeded ANYTHING the Easter Bunny has hidden in his lifetime...................

Ray