Thanks obnoxious. The boat is purely for recreation but I do like to run reasonably hard. So did the 1000hp engine you had run a water pump system? If you were me what set up would you use? Water pump or non water pump?

Barry's talking about a V-Drive style pump driven off the camshaft, which I think would be another great way to go! No longer need the regular water pump or belt, much smaller and could probably run that apparatus off the front of that Weiand intake with room to spare! 

This is a fuel pump on this timing cover, a water pump is much smaller (Can't find a pic of one at the moment), but you'd need a new timing cover, the water pump and the drive spud obviously.



Ray

just to add my 2 cents the speed pro pistons have a cleaner looking cast however the top where the spark and combustion is suppose to start has really sharp edges, thats NOT ok. detonation will occur there.

Since they're forged, "casting" is kindof a relative term there, but yeah, it IS a whole lot prettier......until the first spark hits it.......after which who cares?

The point when we were talking about it quite awhile ago was how much stronger the originals were, let alone material they were made from and the obvious difference in the skirt length limiting piston slap. GC was having a 460 built....yada, yada, yada.....and this piston part number came up. I know a few others on the boards here have some experience with this piston as well.

But notice the external boss differences where the wrist pin is (extra thick on the original ones, inside and out), and where/how  the weight balance machining is done on the underside of the two, PLUS the really surprising differences in the ring land thickness. 

A couple other things hard to see in the pics is just how thick those wrist pin bosses are on the originals compared to the "overseas" ones (You can kindof get the idea in the first pic) and the tops are thicker, heavier also allowing machining to whatever chamber volume/compression ratio you want.

What alarms me, and Paul has mentioned this may times, is that these are all the same part number. The Sealed Power/Speed Pro one I ordered as a "replacement". I really didn't need one, I just wanted to see what Lakesonly was talking about. Now I know.

The point being, probably OK with either in a performance build unless splitting hairs or pushing the edge. The PROBLEM is when you go to rebuild, re-ring, whatever, and need just 1 or two replacements.................and these carry the same part number, no revision number, Etc. and I'm quite sure this happens with probably every aftermarket manufacturer.

Ray   

do they have a steel block under 515 cu. in.

Under 515, but no, aluminum sir! 

Ray

Looks to me that the second rule is aimed directly at LSX motors. Particularly, the LS427 (LS7), although I haven't heard of any done in the 475 CI range. Probably possible though.

I guess my first question would be, Define OEM. Did the block have to come from a production vehicle, or can it simply come from GM, Ford, etc. and their Performance divisions? GMPP does NOT make an aluminum version of it's LSX block. At least as of yet.

The other side of that is the first line wherin the cast iron LSX (454 and much bigger) block WOULD be allowed, as I read it, and as Pat says, would be a welcome addition for the same reasons.

I know the LS2 can be re-sleeved to become an LS7, but I haven't heard of an aluminum block (other than aftermarket like RHS, which may well be why this rule and how it's worded) capable of what GM's iron LSX block can be bored and stroked to.

I don't see a downside to it, weight restrictions or not. If you think about it, it's splitting hairs, really, when y'alls boats have different hull weights to begin with, equipment, setup, fuel capacity, and in drivers alone, picture tossing Ralph in one and Daniel (Willowog) in another. The difference in engine weight from a cast iron big block with aluminum heads to an aluminum LS engine becomes less critical. As Ron says, will likely bring new blood into the class and at the same time keep the big dollar machines out, which is what the class is about anyway.

SHOUTOUT! That's not picking on you Ralph, I probably outweigh you these days, bro! 

Ray   

Nope.

Flame arrestors have the USCG stamp and ID numbers right on them in plain view. They are restrictive, compared to air cleaners and certainly more so than that velocity stack you posted.

There isn't much you can do and meet the requirement. This is a pretty good view of the approved assortment you have to choose from, but can buy anywhere.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Flame-Arrestors/?keyword=flame+arrestor&kr=flame+arrestor

Ray

I picked up a BNIB energizer kit for a grand, it has everything they would normally come with, my pump is a wj, I'm basically trying to see what else I can do to it before putting it back in to get more out of it, bigger intake? Massage the dominator bowl? Change the A impellor it came with? Add a droop snoot? Add a place divertor? All these things I'm not sure of and trying to do this once.

My boat is a 1975 omega 19' with a big block ford roughly 500 hp, I'm looking for a higher top speed is all, it runs right around 55 mph right now and is crazy fast out of the hole, the pump is 100% stock and tired, what can I be expecting to get out of the fresh energized kit? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

First thing is to get it on there and see where you are at. The kit itself will make it seem like  different boat, but don't expect miracles. And Yes, always add a place diverter! Best thing you can do to any boat AND get a roost factor for showing off with it!

You won't be able to do much with the intake (larger than a Berk as it is), or gain much from it short of a newer style loader. The bowl detailing is best left to the Pro's and then only when getting crazy with things where you need pressure taps to read pump pressures before you explode and sink something. Understand, other than the intake and suction housings, everything else in your pump is now going to be Berk-style.

I don't know about the WJ, but I did it a couple years ago on my YJ equipped 19' Charger (455 Olds). We never GPS'd that turd before the change, but I would put it at a solid 45MPH boat, downriver, with a tailwind..........After, with a place diverter at the same time, my bud (the new owner) and I had it out a few times and GPS'd it at 57 MPH best. No modifications other than headers, this past father's day at Big River was the first time I've driven that boat in a few years. So I nailed it hard a few times and GPS'd 63 MPH upriver with it. A 6'4" 230 LB Messican has baby feet I guess..........I call him "El Polo Loco" now.

You will notice a difference. The "B" impeller in your WJ will equate to an "A" on the Berkeley style, so I'd leave that alone.

Ray   

I agree on the fuel issue. Also pull the fittings from the bowls where the fuel lines go in for the sintered bronze filter and spring. If it hasn't been done already, remove them and properly dispose of in the trash. Stick with external filters.

And the only way I've seen a Vac sec'y carb "made" mechanical is by bending the linkage from the primary to the secondary (That's there to force the secondary closed and prevents it from opening by itself under vacuum) around its plate forcing it to open, mechanically, with the primary.



There may be some other methods out there that I haven't seen, but honestly, none are a good idea even remotely. Vaccum Secondary carbs do not have secondary accelerator pumps nor metering blocks on the secondary side, relying totally on vaccum to not only open the secondary (if even needed), but also allow and control needed fuel flow to the secondary squirters. Simply forcing the secondaries open constantly will do nothing more than create a tremendously over lean condition at all throttle positions (which you will probably find quickly when you read your plugs like Pat said), will cause the "bog"  you are describing, and likely cause backfiring and popping at full throttle.

Ray

Sorry for your loss Brad. My families best wishes and prayers to you and your family.

Ray

Typically, you see a dual jet setup (rare) in a much larger boat in the 24' up range with twin engines, spaced much further apart apart than that just like a twin outdrive setups you see on offshore boats and these ultra-rich Desert Storm floats. There's been a few cats set 'em up in much smaller boats. One of them in Texas actually used twin 460's in an 18' Baja or Taylor or something using the special Berk right and left intakes and normal hookups we're used to seeing, just two of 'em. As I recall, that particular boat was plagued with all sorts of handling and mechanical problems though. Probably had a lot to do with another 900 lb Big Block in a teeny boat and the jets being spaced much further apart (as they are in the big boat installs) where cavitation also has to be an issue.

The special twin intakes, these are still available from Berkeley, BTW, a grand apeice. Those loaders were custom made by our own MadSkilllz here o the boards. 


The boat in the Youtube video obviously cut up a pair of these and welded them back together to move the drives as close together as possible. Another one of them I saw pictures of had a completely custom intake with one huge bottom opening coming to to 2 jet drive flanges. Don't know about the boat in your CL ad, but probably similar to the one on Youtube and that gear/chain box used to drive them from a single engine I've seen before on most of these. Not sure who makes it, but sure it's a pretty custom (expensive) piece. There's also other things to consider, like special helms to operate two steering cables, special forward/reverse levers (or 2 of them) and cables, twin diverter set-ups, etc.

Personally, I can see where the one on Youtube could actually drive 2 12JG jets pretty effectively with an advertised 1000HP, and even with the lost parasitic power through that gear/chain box with a pair of A impellers. On the one in your CL ad though, I'm at a loss to understand any advantage. That engine appears to be nowhere near 1000HP (probably more in the 500-600HP range, and I don't see the justification that he feels it's worth $8500 by itself). The parasitic loss through that gear/chain box, coupled with the additional loss just turning another jet, add in the additional weight of the whole apparatus would drop the efficiency so much that a std 320HP +/- single jet in the same boat would probably smoke it.

I suppose you could play with different impellers and gear reduction possibilities (say, being able to spin the jets @5000 RPM while the motor chugs along @3500 RPM) but I don't see the HP in that one to make that a viable arguement.

It is cool though! Funtionality eludes me, however, other than bench racing ownage.

Ray

Did the oil level rise? Milkshake maybe?

I think that is more important to a real issue or just condensation.

Ray

Edit, and yes, I would be concerned about the "sludge". But depending on what oil was run in it (Asphalt based or parafine based) might not be an issue at all.

If it's run it's life on say Quaker State or Pennzoil, those are parafine based PA/NY oils (as of the late 90's) and the sludge isn't a problem and helps in most cases. Later oils (Noone produces oils from the northeast anymore, EPA shut them down) that is a BAD thing and asphalt based oils sludge is like scraping up your driveway junk and dumping in into the oil pan.

As observant as all you should be ..... I'm not the gentleman in the picture.
My hands always smell like hookers and cocaine. 

-beerjet-

I was biting my lip to NOT reveal that piece of information!

Ray

If you ran shallow in sand, the block could be full....

Gate valve malfunction.

worn pump,

come to think of it, these things are pretty straight forward...

And not Olds related! X2!!

Ray