That sounds good ray. Send them this way. Pm me with the pay pal info. If you want to throw one of those blowers in the box that would be fine too :-)

LOL, Which one? got 3 6-71, 1 8-71 and soon 2 10-71's?  Kids are Back East, RJ texted me a few weeks ago about another stripped and fresh 10-71 Mooneyham out there his stepdad knew of (kewl guy! Ex-wife divorced him too, so he's gotta be OK..... ).....so it's now coming out here now also.....as RJ's checked baggage! That oughta be interesting.......

No problems shipping it! but understand, last one I shipped was to Jorks' neck of the woods and cost $150 and change and I hadda build a box for it. 

PM the addie or text it, Dave,  Thought I had you in my phone, but don't or I'da just shipped them when I was outnabout for no apparent reason this afternoon.

Ray

Got a pair of new ones here, open plenum poly. Only 1 stud kit tho. Used the studs on sompin else at one point or another 

Ray

 I disagree, and am with Crewcheif. I only use trailer tires (And have never had a failure, like anything else, they need to be maintained, checked, armor-all'd, etc), and I trailer an hour at minimum, normally 3+ hours to get to water at freeway speeds (75MPH here in Arizona).

Reason being, car tires are designed to give better ride and control in many varying conditions, even at high speed such as the forces of accelerating and stopping, turning, etc. Trailer tires do not need most of this. What they need, and do, is much stronger sidewalls (You're gonna curb 'em far more often, and stress/tear up the sidewalls on tandems or triples particularly just cornering), and their "ply" construction and ratings are real because they are bias ply tires, and harder compounds to absorb more heat, and induce less wear and tear since they are usually quite a bit smaller in diameter than you're car/truck tires. THUS, they spin much faster and much more often per mile.

Trailer tires are typically 6 or 8 bias ply in light trailers. Radial tires are normally 2 ply plus a steel belt (not counted as an actual ply), and the "ply" rating on them is a "strength equivalent"  abbacus computation to compare them directly to bias ply tires because the DOT requires it. Whether that number is accurate or not is not the point. If you doubt this, next time you replace your $600 each Heavy Duty 12 ply rated off road truck tires, cut one open with a sawzall. I think you'll be surprised. Load ratings are another thing that are completely different and you cannot directly compared between trailer tires and passenger car/light truck tires.

The biggest complaint, and legit, on trailer tires when they fail is because they just "flew apart". That's usually not the case. These tires RARELY wear out, on the tread side of things and besides looking at that, air pressure, and weather checking, noone pays any attention to them. There are date codes on these things (there's a website to tell you where and how to check that), and it's very common to find tires 5-10 years out of useable date. I have project boats here that I KNOW the tires on the trailers are original from as far back as 1976, still hold air, plenty of tread left, look decent, and I wouldn't tow them down the street to the Circle K. The rubber compounds degrade over time, through heat, UV light, alien intervention, whatever.

18 wheeled tractor trailers or any heavy truck still use bias ply, know why now?

Ray

PS, some reading for ya

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219&

Heading out now for the weekend Jim but I am interested in this stuff, all or part.  I'll call you Monday.

Just an FYI, and not to jam or slam Jim, John, Lord knows he knows what he's doing and a great guy to deal with, the compression numbers he's quoting are likely with a late D9 block with 10.322" compression height (Undecked or machined) block. Typical blocks we deal with (D0VE or D1VE) are at 10.3" or 10.310" as cast (Again, undecked).

IF these are TRW L2443-NF pistons (best pistons out there for a N/A moderate/heavy 460 IMO and no longer made), and I suspect they are, on a 10.3" or so block you can expect real compression ratios more like 11.75:1 with D3 heads or 13.5:1 with C8, C9, or D0 heads. C/R's might be where Jim posted for a D9 (External balance, un-machined) block and crank, haven't done the math on that or tried it, and Paul Kane might not be a bad resource to verify this. PM me I'll give you the number.

That being said, what you CAN do if going to run them zero decked (No matter the block or crank, but simply machined to 10.3" or so compression height) is have .080"-.100" machined off the domes on the pistons which would drop you to 11-11.25:1 c/r with D3 heads. AND I have an extra, replacement, brand new L2443-NF .030 piston to complete that set for ya! 

Ray 

Logistics my AZZ. If you want it just work a deal with him.  I'll go get it and we can figure a way to "SoCal Express" it out to you.


 
 Your just not right anymore, you've been breathing to much two stroke smoke.   

LMAO Pat, you prolly would ruin it like that too.......

Couple calls and texts, no answers yet.....

Ray

More speed should be there! The @3900 RPM is what struck me. What's limiting that? Ignition? Timing? Valvesprings? FWIW, Main studs are a downgrade from bolts on the 460 Ford. Sometimes necessary for say a Dooley pan and it's windage tray, but for the most part, stay away from them. But that is not your problem.

I read a lot of head work, so valve springs were a part of this. One thing about valve springs. Too light for the cam, they will float very early and act as an RPM limiter. Too heavy for the cam, they will wipe the cam lobes so quick it isn't funny.

Ray

Never tried that stuff, but Blu-Away works great! 

Ray

Shoulda clarified. Paul will chime in I'm sure, but other than finding a thick web D0VE block, they're pretty much the same as the D2VE's we all have everywhere. The later ('79 up)D9TE blocks can probably also be used in your case with the casting number on your external balance crank.

Ray

If you're gonna leave Mt St Baker's engine cover on there, best leave the spark arrestor be.........

Ray

Here's a couple 'til Brad gets his movie edited (for content mostly.........)


















Ray

Couple of things could be causing that, but the first I would try is the short cable coming from the motor box that connects to the steering tube/transom adaptor inside. Get some pics of the inside setup also, something looks wrong with where the cable connects to the transom adaptor just under the steering tube, and the motor is definately struggling. Could be a bad motor, but more likely the cable. There's periodic greasing you need to apply inside that motor box as well.

Ray

I doubt Sanger........More guess Hondo!

But what are you gonna do with it in Belgium???

Ray