I need 1 or a pair of oval port BBC heads Cracked one of mine looking for bare or put together.

I have a few here, what casting number do you have again?

Kreg

The drain hole situation would have been better addressed while the engine was apart, but that crusty stuff should not be too tough to either tap or gently run a drill through to loosen it up.  That's normally something that gets done prior to washing the bare block. 

I use a certain impact socket for installing bbc brass plugs, and I seal them with aviation permatex, brushed in the block rather than on the plug.

I ALREADY AHVE THOSE FLIP TO[ FUEL FILLS...IT JUST SEEMS WHEN IT GETS REAL OUT OUTSIDE IT SPITS GAS OUT OF THE TOP OF THEM AND IT RUNS DOWN THE BOW OF THE BOAT

WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM? I WAS ASSUMING THERE ISNT A VENT ON THESE

If you fill your tanks close to full, the heat will expand the gas and cause it to run out. 

Everytime I run the boat I end up with oil on my transom, gas tanks, battery, you get the idea. It's a 468 BBC, Melling HV pump, finned aluminum valve covers with moroso baffles on the underside, K&N push in breathers. I also have a set of bolt on aluminum stack type breathers I haven't installed yet, my question is;
Do you guys think the additional breathers will cure my problem?
What about a puke tank?
What about evac tubes off the headers? Will evacs work with slip in baffles?

Other than the oily mess after each session, the boat runs perfect, anyone got any other ideas?
Thanks
Skip

Skip

Sounds like time to do a leak down test and see how bad the rings are.  Puke tank would help minimize or eliminate some of the mess,  and I can understand you not wanting to pull the engine down right at the beginning of the season, but might as well know what is causing the problem. 

It would have been interesting to see what it would have done with a single 1050, since it may have been undercarbed with the 850(and if that particular 850 actually flowed 850).  Also, the tunnel ram probably had an effect on horsepower gain?

After talking with maddog in person, he decided that it's worth the extra effort to pull the pan back off and check.  He described his pickup to me as a Melling part number, and said it was definately longer than the stock one I showed him, so I suggested it may be the pickup for the deeper "truck" type pan. 

The Weiand manifold is for a Dominator flange carb, so if you wanted to run a 4150 style carb, you should run a manifold that matches rather than having to buy an adapter.  I do have a 4150 type Dart intake, but it's not polished, $325 mint condition, test time only.

I may go ahead and assemble this one next week, cheap way to get the boat running for the summer!

Still have this, pretty good deal!  I can build something with it for you

That's something that probably should have been checked before you bolted the pan on.  I lay a straight edge across the pickup and measure from the pan rails of the block, deducting for the thickness of the pan gasket (or measure with the gasket in place), then do basically the same with the pan, measure the depth.   

I like to have very close to 3/8" clearance.

I have to assume that you merely put rings and bearings in the engine, otherwise you would have gotten into having to know what parts you were dealing with to make sure you bought the right parts?  The casting number on the block would help verify.

Regardless of standard or tall deck,, changing the cam and rockers means you should measure for correct pushrod length.   I have some stockers you could borrow to see how the geometry is.  If it wasn't freshly assembled and clean I would say bring the whole thing and I would help you make sure you get the correct length.

Thanks.. Unfortunately, it's not it big enough.. I don't know the exact measurement, but I think the drain plug bolt on the milodon pan has threads that are about 1 1/4"..

That might be just a large pipe thread plug, easy to buy an adapter and cap and use a hose as I described above.