Oh, and you can check it on the engine, though you have to be really careful to be accurate. Personally I would only use this to get me in the ballpark, not as the end all be all measurement.

Dial indicator zeroed on the retainer, and compress the valve down until it binds. Allow for spring expansion at .050, add a little fudge factor for your comfort level on your tool inaccuracy, and go from there.  If you show you can handle a .600 lift cam, then running a .500 isn't an issue, but I would pull it for a .550.

You could also use a dial caliper instead of a dial indicator, but there again, I would only use it for gross measurements, as there are too many variables that can screw you in the end.

And remember max lift is not the same as when the spring compresses and binds from its natural static height.
Say you have a 2 inch spring, and coil binds at 1.10 height.  The max lift would NOT be .900!



Math is:
installed height - coil bind height - .050 = Max Lift

it's probably installed at 1.80 or so, not at 2 inches, otherwise you would have no seat pressure.

So:

1.80 - 1.1 -.050 = .650 max valve lift.

Well I have the old rod, so I will give it a shot. It will be close, and being that close to overextending I'd hate to have of all things the throttle bind up while hauling ass. But I have time to goof around with it while the engine is getting finished up. I am going to miss having a tunnel ram for an entertainment center decoration 

Set it up at 100%, and let it sit where it does at idle. You have a carb, not an EFI hat - so it's not controlling the airflow into the engine at idle. The engine pulls so little air there that the gap around the blades isn't even going to be a restriction.

Nothing wrong with either carb.

Holleys - Easy to tune, pretty forgiving on tunes, most horsepower, quickest throttle response. Power valves that blow out, choke setup not as clean. Quick to adjust and tune.
Carter AFB - More mid range tunability, no power valves, backfires won't hurt them. Acc pump not as good, air door hurts power. Many parts to take off to tune.
Carter TQ - Big secondaries for power, little primaries for great throttle response and good cruising mpg. Large fuel bowls. Plastic body keeps fuel cool but can crack and leak after time.  Many parts to take off to tune. Parts getting hard to find, may not be able to tune perfect due to jet and metering rod restrictions (you can get close).
Rochester - Big secondaries for power, little primaries for great throttle response and good cruising mpg. Small float bowl shared by all bores (better have a great fuel system). Most complicated carb to tune or adjust.

I'm looking for spec's for a marine application...

Piston to cylinder wall clearences? How do you check them?

This is dependant on the piston you use, for example most mfg will have a chart like this:
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/clearance_pop.php
It is based on the bore size, usage, and piston silicon content. You check it with a bore gauge kit.


Ring end gaps (file fit rings)? How do you check them?

You check them in the finished bore with a set of feeler gauges.


How do you check for proper pushrod length (aftermarket solid roller retro-fit setup)?

You want about 1-2 threads showing on the adjusters - assuming you have a rocker arm setup that adjusts at the pushrod itself and not at the center. If it is at the center, I don't know.


Lastly, valve to piston clearences, what's a min clearence?

.090 - BTW - Duration has more to do with this clearance number than lift.

I would think so...

Got the engine mounted today. All day project, that's for sure.

I went ahead and used 3/16 aluminum angle iron with grade 8 bolts, fender washers and nylocks to mount to my stringers. Hopefully it ends up being OK.

If you cause the spark to happen before the max compression hits, as is the case with 25-35 degrees of advance, then it will crank easier. 15-25 seems to be the hardest to crank.

With the separate starter switch, you get the engine spinning over, then turn on the ignition. You can do this with a kill switch too, push the kill while the initial crank is happening, then when it gets going, disable the kill.

I paid a grand for my entire place setup - large rudder, hyd controls, steering wheel botton, trim gauge, underslung cables....

If you have a cam that idles around 1000 and up, you don't make power until the distributor is fully advanced anyway, so it makes sense to lock it in. The disti will start advancing on its own at idle, and you need it locked.

If you idle below 1000, then you can gain more power by having a curve.

On my cams that are 250 deg and below @ .050, I run timing, above, locked.

Your mileage may vary.

OK, minor flow in my plan. I bought some glenwoods from and rear mounts - they are 26 inches wide, which corresponds to my stinger width (in to in measurement).

I got it lined up, then realized that the entire engine, all 4 mounts, was only going to be supported by bolts going into the stringers at 90 degrees with nothing on top of the stringer to take the force of bouncing etc. My 455's mounts had it at 90 degrees AND over the top of the stringers.

My question is, how critical is that. I am thinking it is pretty essential, and throwing a couple of lag / wood / etc screws, even at 1/2 diameter, isn't going to be enough. I'd love to hear thoughts - I am stalled at this point.

Thanks!

Those are some nice BIG chains on that trailer.     Boat looks good speedy ! 

Yep. BIG is in. I made him put the beefiest ones he had, they are for the large large large fishing boats....


THANKS! Can't wait to get the engine in. I'm half tempted to start tonight, though I know that isn't a good idea.

On one of the other thread, they were talking about discoing the jet before - not to run it dry.

Now, if I unbolt the driveline, I don't know how the thing won't destroy itself on the flywheel - nothing to keep it off (the u joints will just bend it down). And I need to run the engine 'cause I just put it together..

I have stuffer plates made up and ready to install for $35.00. Several different thicknesses and styles.  TIMINATOR   623-877-8553

How are you supposed to know what one you need?


I have to take my berk apart in the next couple of weeks - installing a place divertor, and relubing everything + wear ring and anything else that needs / should be changed.