It'sa V-drive.........It'll sit on the trailer and run only when the water is perfect..........which is NEVER............

Looks good bro, all kidding aside!

Ray

does anyone know anyone who paints names on boats?

thanks!


chris

I got a Local guy here that did Moo and Pickle.........but that's a LONG ways from here........He might know someone in your area, though. 

Ray

In the Kum-by-ya spirit of things I wanted to give some props to the guy I bought the 455 from a while back, but now I can't find his name or PM's.  I think he was selling a Southwind hull that he had pulled it out of.

I just got back from the lake and the moto runs great !!!  Other than a water leak at the snails and no trailer lights AGAIN I am pretty damn happy right about now.  It runs about 400 rpms higher and a whole lot quieter than the old motor and seems to hold 40- 50 psi of oil pressure WFO for a few laps around the lake.  Didn't even ping on year old gas.  Idles nicer and runs real cold (of course the water is still pretty cold).  Got the diverter working again too.  Still don't know if it will deliver enough of a holeshot to pull me up on a ski but I'm sure gonnna try first chance I get.

Now if you will excuse me, I gotta go get some popcorn.  I think I might be needing it soon.

I'm not sure a Top Fuel Hydro has enough holeshot to pull you up on a ski John.............BUT you'd probably best be betting on the Spectra fot that sort of behaviour!!!   

Ray

C8VE-A, C9VE-A, D0VE-A, and D0VE-C heads are so alike that you can pretty much run any of those castings on one cylinder bank and a different casting revision on the opposite bank, such as a C8VE on the driver's side and a D0VE-C on the passenger's side...from both being in a state of as-cast to fully-ported.

What's important to remember is that when it comes to D0VE-A and D0VE-C heads, the D0VE engineering revision heads might be or might not be drilled for Thermactor (emmissions air pump), and so it's a good idea to have a matched pair as far as whether they are drilled or not.  This is not a do-or-die critical difference and one of each type of D0VE head (Thermactor/no Thermactor) can be run together in some cases after a little prep work so as to make them both more or less equalized.

LO

p.s.: C8VE-A and C9VE-A heads are never drilled for Thermactor.

Therin lies the push on these BBF heads. I always hear "you need D0VE", or "I have D0VE"........ There ARE variances you need to be aware of! Thanks Paul for eloquently illustrating that! 

What also needs to be understood is that all those heads Paul mentioned, C8, C9, and D0, are all supposed to be somewhere around 75cc Chambers. Most I've seen and measured  have been at around 67-69cc, so this will affect final, actual, compression ratio depending on deck height, gasket, etc. Same thing on D3's, etc that are supposed to be 97-100+ cc, most are really at 92-98cc. So measurement is critical, maybe, depending on the sophistication of the build. The only ones different than these, that I'm aware of, are the D2OE's, and I've only had mine to measure, but they came right in at 88cc's, close to where they're supposed to.

Just match the heads as best you can. 

Ray

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/boa/2937778366.html

Anybody else see aything wrong with that jet drive??     

Ray

Hey since you have the rest of the parts for this jetovator you want to give me what I have in this one and I will pay the shipping ? $200 to your front door ! PM me if you are interested. And you are saying the ONLY place I can run is a JE model ? Dame just my luck ! Thanks !

Mike

No, you CAN run the regular Place unit. BUT, you'll probably need both new cables, a traditional steering tube, a f/r cable seal, drill two new holes above left and above right of the pump, respectively, and 2 new transom plugs for the holes the old steering cable and f/r cable used before.............

The discounted retail price difference, new, is $60 for the JE version over the regular JA-JB-JC-JG version.  I think it's a lot less money in the end to do THAT rather than all the other crap. The JE converter then can still be retained even if switching later to a split bowl and moving the steering cable (new, the one you have probably won't work, but it might, and the new steering tube) by maybe picking up a tiller arm from Place for their "Low Profile" diverter (I don't have a JE in front of me but I'm pretty sure you can simply drill and tap the top/port flat spot on the JE trim for a regular steering cable hookup, and then no new tiller is needed). The Low Profile Place actually uses the JE trim unit and relocates the f/r cable to below just as the JE does anyway. In THAT case, you could leave your f/r cable alone and only worry about the Steering cable hookup. The f/r cable will probably need to be longer, though, if adding a droop or extension on the split bowl, however, but it's location and type will be perfectly fine.

But, yes, less pain involved? just use the JE trim and rest assured that you can still retain it even if upgrading your JE pump with a split bowl, droops, extensions, nozzles, etc. The only thing is, you're left to new for the unit because they just don't show up on the used market out there very often. I HAVE tripped across them and picked them up when I could. Not nearly as many of them out there, and what are are probably still in use. The vast majority of the "regular" Place units you do find out there are the old style with the reverse tunnel hanging down below also, not the newer flat pad style, FWIW.

Ray

PS, and No, I don't have a use for the JetOVater. They do work well, and nothing against them, but for any new install, a Place drops in and ready to roll in about a half hour versus HOURS messing around with installing one of those!

Get with/PM Aquaholic, I know he found some support for a Berk 6JA he was messing with.....might have some info for you.

Ray

Ray thanks for the insightful info ! I think it sounds easier to shop for a place deverter. I got excited when I seen the jetovator for sale and figured it would work. The guy was asking $350 for it and talked him down to $200 for it. So I'm sure I can list it here and get my money back. and put it towards a place deverter. Thanks to all !

Mike
jetH20

 

When you sell that, I think I have most of the rest of the parts you need to complete that. I don't have the aforementioned $95 seal or speshul steering tube and spring, but I do have the linkages and the other stuff.........I also have a transom adaptor already pre-drilled for it........

Tom at JBP and I had a conversation once about Josh whipping up those seals.......I mean really, you could machine the things one-off out of Polished Billet for less than that plastic piece costs.....but it's still available, as is the spring and tube.

But good move! Buy the Place, get some seats and the engine in it, then run it!!! Remember though, it's a different Place unit for the JE than the run of the mill Place for the JA, JB, JC, JG you see out there..........you're gonna wind up going new unless you just happen to be EXTREMELY lucky...........   

Ray

If you don't switch to a split bowl you will have to buy a place diverter for an e pump. It can be done but they are a little more money. I am upgrading my e pump on my challenger to a split bowl.

Agreed. They make a diverter specifically for the JE pump, which IS what you have. They are a tad more money (like 35 bucks or something), but it retains the lo profile steering and F/R setup on your pump. IF you change to a split bowl, which can be done, easily enough, you just gained two more drain holes to plug on the lower starboard side of the pump where the cables used to come out, you will not be able to use them from that location with a split bowl. You will now have to drill new holes in the transom in the traditional locations for a traditional steering tube (Something new to buy) and the F/R cable and seal (Something else new to buy). Chances are both your cables will no longer work or be close to long enough.....soooooo, something MORE to buy, but those may need replacing on a boat that old anyway.

Worthwhile doing? Hard to say. Personally, I'd get it running, get it on the water and play with it. A Place Diverter will eliminate the need to be able to put wedges in, for the most part, and only some seat time will tell if a droop would be adventageous to your particular setup. Those are the only two real reasons to go to a split bowl in the first place.

The roost in this pic Brad took of my old 18' Sleek is a stock JE, AA impeller with and "E" place diverter. Probably a TAD more hp that you're talking, but I actually got it up higher than that later after some grinding and detailing.....

 

I beleive you can profit a good buck or two pawning off your old JetOVater ($200 is pretty cheap), get an E version Place Diverter  (You never find them used, gonna hafta go new there, and your handle appears to be a stringer mount anyway, which you need a floor mount, or modify/make a bracket for that one). That one is also the older version Berk JetOvater, the newer Place ones do not have that reverse tube hanging down for one thing off the back which WILL slow you down, but rather have a flat pad on the bottom of them. The other difference is complicated, but to get that thing working, and it WILL work on a split bowl, there is about a $95 stoopid expensive super special seal you seem to be missing, and about $200 of other parts, some no longer made.

If later on you decide to go the split bowl route, your diverter can be retained buy picking up some traditional brackets from Place, or selling yours used (Should get a commanding price for it, since JE diverters used are so hard to find and yours will look new!) buying another since you've proven you can find good deals on them. 

JMO

Ray

Oh, BTW, Love Sleeks! That's the first Sportster I've seen still retaining it's engine hatch! 

Damn not what i wanted to hear

Not all doom and gloom for your pump! If it's a Golden Eagle YJ, that's an insert pump and then all you need is a sawzall, balls to do the cutting and the berk parts to do a set-back deal. Minimal 'glass work there!

Ray

Tom twice today ive read "xcelerator kit"  whats the difference between that and the energizer kit?

The Xcelerator kit is the new one avilable from Aggressor. Same thing, designed by the same guys, new manufacture! 

Ray

I replaced the entire YJ Golden Eagle pump in my Charger with one with an Energizer kit and a place diverter last spring. On THAT pump, I can say it was a huge difference and well worth it. I don't see the boat much these days, my buds always have it out, but we ARE planning to bring it for the "Father's Day No Skirts" gathering in June at Big River. Mostly, because it's ugly, can't hurt it, and we've added a new droop and wedge to it so we can offer some complimentary bridge washings with a 455 Olds.............

As far as the WJ, had a few apart here recently, and in all honesty, very much resemble a Berk inside. Different Impeller codes, a B is a A, and so on, but can be made as they are  to run HARD! Crewcheif's boat is a good example! (Did you ever put that new intake on Keith??)

Unless you're splitting hairs, racing, need aftermarket parts, etc, I don't see the benefit justifying the expense, myself. I think well before I would go that expensive route, I would re-rig the boat with a Berk which would probably be the same cost or less..............

Ray