Might try Rex Marine,, I think they have the wire re-enforced ones  http://rexmar.com/page229.html

ship the dooley to vegas?

Sure,, PM an address to me, and let me know if it's a residence and I will check shipping cost.

I have a bare set of 049's with an all new set of stainless steel valves to go with them.  I can get a valve job done on the heads and assemble with springs to match your cam's requirements if you want some that are all fresh. 

Looking to get rid of peanut port heads during the off season. What is a good bolt on head and cam combo out there? This is going to be going on a 21ft open bow river runner. Not looking for anything crazy just a nice top end kit that will wake my motor up.

Thanks for the help
Mike

Since the casting number you gave is a Gen 6 block, I presume you already have a roller cam.  I can get that one reground for you for considerably less than you can buy a new roller camshaft for.  You stated you have a tunnel ram and a single 4150 Holley,, but don't say what size the carb is.  Can't see it sticking through the engine cover on the boat.  A tunnel ram may not be your best choice for your heavier boat, and probably lower RPM? 

I would be happy to talk to you on the phone if you want to PM for my number.  The oval port heads that have been mentioned might be the best way to go.  If you are really on a budget I have a set of the peanut port heads that were opened up to the larger oval size. 

First step is to decide what you think you want to spend, and how much you would like to gain and see if those two numbers will work together.

is that a mechanical secondary or vacuum?

That's the marine mechanical secondary model if I am seeing the photo right,, probably should grab it quick at that price.

Thanks for that guys. Yea it would be nice to bolt something directly on and keep it tidy. TJS Nordic how long have you run your system for and do you run your boat for long periods at a time? What temp does it run at and does the temp fluctuate much? My running is an hour or so one way normally in braided shingle rivers.

Are you using the boat for ski racing or something?

If you are running the engine hard for extended periods of time, it's common over here to run as much water through the engine as possible.  I personally ran blown and turbo engines in a Schiada ski race boat, with a large cam driven water pump.  The turbo engine had all -12 water lines.  Hottest I ever recall it getting was a weekend when I pulled an Aussie skier at Lake Mead in Men's Open class,, air temp was about 115 degrees, and at the end of the race after I dropped the skier off I saw 190 degrees on the gauge, that quickly came back down as I let the engine continue to idle to cool the turbos and normalize temperatures.

PS... I also build engines for a living, so there is more than one school of thought on cooling.  My 1000 HP turbo engine was in the boat 6 years, and still in good shape when I took it apart for inspection after selling the boat without the engine.

My first thought, based on how you said you ran it, was the same as GT Jets, oil temp. 

If you have a large capacity pan, being a quart low should not be an issue.  Oil temp can be caused by extended running at higher RPM and load.  If you made a lap at Elsinore at 4500 RPM and up, it's basically the same as racing it.  Personally, I like straight weight oil for "racing", rather than multi grade.  I know the Valvoline is the easiest racing oil to get your hands on, but in my opinion there are better choices.

With 600 hours, if you have been running it that hard all of it's life, it could be getting kind of tired?

switched from 3 point to a 4 point mount... the flexplate is new, and its flat... but as you can see in the pic its making contact with the plate mount.  theres a good 1/8" of room between them.  does the crank move around that much? is the flexplate flexing/bad?  i thought it might be the pump pushing forward on the engine but i tried pushing forward on the pump shaft and i cant get it to move at all.

In some instances, a flexplate with no torque converter on it will "flex", and may make contact.  I saw one (a new, SFI thick one) make some sparks the other day on an engine I was running on the dyno.  The dyno operator commented that he sees it occasionally. 

So, I almost always put the charger on my battery for a while before I take out the boat---1 battery, alot of sitting around with the radio on. Today, it was totally dead when I put the charger on,--like dash lights don't come on "dead"  I took off the positive battery cable, and put a volt meter between it and the battery, and it was showing full battery voltage. It showed no amp draw. I did unhook the radio so the clock, and memory were not drawing any voltage, and of course had the key off. I started to narrow down systems that could be shorting out by totally disconecting them one at a time. I found that the alternator seems to be what it shorting out, and draining the battery,--I THINK. It still makes power like it should when it is running for the reccord.  My question is... do they go bad like this?-
by bad I mean an internal short?  How would one test for this before replaceing the whole thing?---and will a regular automotive alternator work instead of a higher priced marine one?  Thanks in advance!

With the key off, it should not be showing any amperage draw. 

Most parts stores have battery load testers, maybe the easiest way to check the battery.  For that matter you should be able to take the alternator and have it tested.

I wonder if there is a connection issue in the circuit?  You can measure voltage across the two battery terminals,, then leave the meter on one terminal, and use the other meter probe to check the system at each connection point, looking for a large difference in what you read across the battery.  That can identify a point of high resistance.

If the dash lights don't come on, but yet there is battery voltage, I would not immediately suspect a bad battery.

I have had one of these stands for quite a few years now, it's always my first choice to work on of the many stands that I have here.  The way the head is machined, it can be turned easily, but also can be turned part way and usually will stay in place without tightening the bolt,, extremely handy when grinding and washing the block.  It's also the only stand that I have that I feel I can trust with a turbo or blower setup on the engine.

I bought used holley high rise valve covers. I need a breather for the right one but its the kind that like twist and locks in. Where do i get one

You can try Herbert Performance, since you are in Chino, right off the 71 freeway.   As mentioned, many parts stores have small amounts of "performance" parts.  Pep Boys probably has them also.

It's going to be kind of important to figure out what caused the problem, to make sure you don't repeat that!