Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Josh@JBP

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 13
51
Projects / Re: Mach 1
« on: May 07, 2008, 10:37:34 AM »
Damn I am frustrated as hell. I can't find any info on push rod length for a BBC with stock heads and a retro-fit roller cam. Cam companies are telling me there are too many variables. Excuse me? Stock Mark IV's use the same pushrods for a flat tappet cam, why wouldn't they use the same length roller cam specific pushrods? Did the valves magicaly grow or majicaly shorten when I switched to a roller cam? Does the roller cam bolt in a different location than a flat tappet cam? WTF?  :mad:  There is no way I'm going to meet my wishfull deadline. By the time I figure out this easy answer I'll probably be out of cash, again.




:banghead:  X 1,000

Comp Cams calls the "Retro fit" pushrod length at 7.725" and 8.684", that should serve as a base line, but as previously mentioned you should get some length checking pushrods and roll it through a couple of times to get the correct length for your engine.

52
Projects / Re: Here's my 78 Brendella
« on: May 05, 2008, 11:02:39 AM »
Hey Josh,,,, just want to to say you suck.  The Kid was not even a glimer in Rhonda eyes and now the punk is callin me out........... course, I love every minute of it but don't tell him...... ;D
::) got me thinkn twice about giving you pointers.........if you install the blocks on the back sides of the plates, it makes future removal of the engine easier.   You don't have to lift the plates over the blocks when you pull the engine thus the drive line doesn't bind and slips right out.

53
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: May 02, 2008, 06:34:09 PM »
Here a link for degreeing in the cam,  but if you don't have a kit to degree in a camshaft it might be near impossible http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

In theory however you should be able to lineup the dots and run it, but this doesn't allow for slight missmachining of camshaft or timing gears. 

54
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: May 02, 2008, 06:25:15 PM »
that thing is SO far out it aint funny. that first pic is off by like a hundred degrees, the second is off about 45
x2 ...........when those two marks are lined up it should be top dead 6 (on chevy), but you should still degree it like crewchief22  said.

55
you did a good job showing a car with more horse power, larger displacement AND a supercharger only keeping up with its true rival. I would think with 1.1L more displacement and a Blower that it should be turning more then only 67HP more then the Ferrari.

Comparing those 2 you made me want a ferrari only that much more.  The fit and finish of the GT is garbage comparred to a ferrari, I have been for a ride in a GT, I know someone who owned one along with ferraris, austin martin DB9, and vintage racing cars. I wonder why he got rid of the GT.
The Ford did have better gas mileage, which is important when you spend 150k on a car ;)

56
Projects / Re: daytona
« on: May 01, 2008, 06:08:55 PM »
It'll look fine after ya get some 36 grit ;D   How far are ya setting it back?

57
Wild Bill JENKINS put it in front lets get manifold on here the Iatolofchevola it only toook Chev 20+ years  to get it RITE
The picture looks like a Cleveland intake on a Chevy block ??? 

Maybe the true question should be "what would one be with out the other?", seems as though they have both stolen ideas from one another in an effort to improve upon their own design.

58
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Roller Rockers.............
« on: April 30, 2008, 01:30:13 PM »
At this point i dont even care anymore, im using what came with the 396..

2sav
How big is the lift on your cam?  Chevy long slot rockers (stamped steel) can take up to .550 lift and have an H stamped in them.

59
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Valve Lash
« on: April 23, 2008, 10:48:27 AM »
I am interested in this topic too. My cam card says .016/.018. Do I set hot or cold?

A
The card typically refers to hot lash, If you are going to set the lash cold Crane recomends adding/subtracting .XXX to what the came card reads:

Iron Block   +   Iron Heads   =  Add .002" 
Iron Block    +  Aluminum Heads   =   Subtract .006" 
Aluminum Block   +  Aluminum Heads   =  Subtract .012"

That should get you close.

60
Jet Pumps / Re: this place is dead. lets see the back of your boat
« on: April 21, 2008, 05:00:56 PM »
my current configuration...

Very Cool! nice setup

61
Hulls / Re: Beat to Death
« on: April 15, 2008, 02:06:46 PM »
The emblem on the back of the engine hatch looks like it says kona to me

62
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: April 11, 2008, 10:23:44 AM »
Droop is on the boat ;D as a mock up only............i forgot to order the gaskets :banghead:
??? bummer,  typically we send at least one with the droop.  We'll drop a couple in an envolope for ya.

63
Projects / Re: New Dominator drive
« on: April 10, 2008, 02:27:34 PM »
You are kidding right? UPS broke his Berkeley so UPS is buying him a new Dominator pump??
Not entirley, but the insurance does help defray the cost

64
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: April 10, 2008, 12:30:26 PM »
Well i have to do something, and it looks like im going to notch it a bit. 3/4-1" Is that too much?

2sav
Just see how much you are deficiant and cut a v shape out of the middle of the divider, Error on the side of caution and cut it a lil  big, incase you change wedges later or what not.   If memory serves me Aggressors came that way.

65
Projects / Re: New Dominator drive
« on: April 10, 2008, 11:12:40 AM »
Does that have the new hi helix impeller? Do I dare ask how much coinage? ??? ;D
No Hi-helix.   "Coinage" hard to say, MSRP dollars 4000+, but UPS broke his Berkeley so.........

66
Projects / Re: New Dominator drive
« on: April 10, 2008, 10:51:36 AM »
...plus its just damn pretty.

I had it on a fender cover up on the bench, it was so damn pretty.  Didn't want to scratch or scuff it when i put the inducer in :P ;D

67
Projects / Re: BAHNER
« on: April 10, 2008, 10:45:58 AM »
You can notch the divider a bit. Or you can get an original aluminum Berkeley plug (shorter).

As far as the divider thats an argument right up there with Ford/Chevy etc....   I was told by not one but two different pump manufactures that it is in there to help equalize pressure differencials or something to that effect.  I believe they also stated that the vertical divider, was not only easier to cast but also help more than the horizontal one.  It also further helps to straighten out the flow.

68
Projects / Re: it's home!!
« on: April 09, 2008, 01:54:39 PM »
proof that i am a dumbass, as if that is needed ;D
Fixed it  ;D

69
Projects / Re: glasscutters Jet
« on: April 08, 2008, 05:18:23 PM »
He since realized what sissy brakes his truck had and traded it in ;D

70
Jet Pumps / Re: HYD PD control
« on: April 08, 2008, 11:25:45 AM »
JBP ya guys carry the steering wheel mounted hyd pd control? if so how much    Mark

Yes we do.   PM sent ;)

71
Jet Pumps / Re: this place is dead. lets see the back of your boat
« on: April 08, 2008, 10:59:07 AM »
This is the only pic that has the same underslung diverter I have. Seeing how I have to start drilling holes in the transom adapter, I'd really like to see underneith that swim step and see how the cables are routed.

Josh, any other pics you can share? (Or if someone else can post the same style so I can see the cables.....)

Your diverter is a Low profile system as oposed to the one on my glastron which is an "E" style diverter.  As you can see they took the reverse cable concept from the E diverter and applied it to the LPS(with slight variation).  The LPS is most common for use under swim platforms, so the platform does not have to be cut out for the cable/s.

On the E pump (glaston) the reverse cable goes straight back in to the hull, through the bello right above the steering cable.  On the LPS the cable is intended to be re-routed to the port side of the transom adapter to create an S bend.  The cable ataching point on the LPS is also about an inch higher than the one supplied with the E version, to better alow for the cable routing over the bowl.

Heres an advertized picture of the LPS

72
Projects / Re: 16' Tahiti project
« on: April 05, 2008, 12:01:25 PM »
Smart A$$ Taught that youngin at an early age ,he's quite the smart ass understudy !!!!! ;)
So well infact, the student has become the teacher ^-^

73
Projects / Re: 16' Tahiti project
« on: April 04, 2008, 02:17:48 PM »
How big is that cam? Are you gonna at least pin the studs?

Its only a lil over .500 and lucky for us they were already pinned 8)

74
Projects / Re: 16' Tahiti project
« on: April 04, 2008, 01:28:34 PM »
That thing outa scoot if for no other reason than the distributor is on the CORRECT end of the block....... ;D
::) the top end?  :screwy:

75
Projects / Re: 16' Tahiti project
« on: April 04, 2008, 11:47:45 AM »
Takes me back a ways Josh.  Nuthin wrong with the 194s. I figg'r I messed up most of the 202s back in the day so a set of them have gotta be rare by now.....
good call, they ought to do real well.  I refigure it today and they'll put it at 10.5:1 comp ;D  I got a lumpy ass version of the "1rst off Road" solid lift cam and a 99% perfect AT B/C impeller to compliment it.   "I just love it when a plan comes together"

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 13

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026