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Messages - IRRebel

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701
Bad ground or bad ground cable.  ;)

Ray

702
The No Wake Zone / Re: Banderlog: the good and the bad
« on: August 04, 2011, 04:47:04 PM »
I often thought of running one, kinda pricey. The only one I know of and got feedback from that ran one was TJSNordic and he had nothing but trouble with it and he abandoned it for a driver mounted control valve..... :banghead:

Ray

703
as pissed as she looks youd think you kicked her in the ankle. hope shes ok for BR  :beer: :beer: :beer:

Owwww! I was gonna say, she don't look happy about it either........ >:(

Ray

704
Hulls / Re: transom
« on: August 03, 2011, 05:01:34 PM »
Is anyone concerned like me that the transom may have some rot?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4G

The only thing the transom wood is for is to support his swim step, right? I mean, all the forces of the engine are on the stringers and bottom of the boat, the forces of the jet are also on the bottom, not on the transom. Be different with an Outboard or I/O, I wouldn't be concerned about it much.  :o

Ray

705
Projects / Re: Outboard to Inboard with Jet Drive Conversion
« on: August 03, 2011, 12:02:25 PM »
If you're going to do a setback install, PM Propless. His came out awesome and had his own little method for how he got it as square and as tight as he did. His acutally will not need those aluminum plates because he glassed the transom back in very tight to the pump. A little silicone around the pump and viola! You have the advantage of merely cutting out so it fits that snug and very little glass work.   ;)

You'll probably spend a day or two with a grinder underneath once the intake is in reshaping the keel to work with the new jet intake, but shouldn't be too bad.

Ray

706
Jet Pumps / Re: In need of help with 12jg-a pump
« on: August 02, 2011, 08:16:05 PM »
Looks all Berk to me, except that arm. Could be Berk as well, but if it is, also looks bent as hell! Probably not gonna straighten it easily, but grinding that "shroud" looking part completely off where it kinda follows the contour of the nozzle adaptor would be the first thing I'd do. Can't see where it offers any structural integrity, first, and definately limits it's travel. Everything else is original Berk Jet-O-Vater though. Just that arm........ :screwy:

I would start grinding off, aggressively, that curved portion of the arm. Might just look strange to me because everyone I've seen has had that done already maybe.   

Ray

707
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milodon oil pan question.
« on: August 02, 2011, 07:52:29 PM »
Not sure Ray. A neighbor of mine's dad used to own a boat repair shop. He has since retired and moved to Havasu, but I believe it came from one of the dad's buddies (via my neighbor). Do you see any major issues or flaws?

Not really no. I don't think I'd run a HV pump with it is all.

Ray

708
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milodon oil pan question.
« on: August 02, 2011, 06:28:48 PM »
What pan is that Frank? Never seen THAT before........

Ray


709
Jet Pumps / Re: Replacing wax on berkley???
« on: August 02, 2011, 05:56:38 PM »
Yep! As these guys said, a little drip is ALWAYS good........ >:D

As stated, that is packing, and unlike hydraulic packing, it is water lubed. watch a backhoe, trackhoe, bulldozer, skid-steer or bobcat work and wou can wipe a film of hydraulic fluid from the hard chrome hydraulic pistons. Kinda the same thing, but you need a little more "leakage" in this case to keep them cool.

Ray

710
Projects / Re: 76 Hallett project
« on: August 02, 2011, 04:56:11 PM »
Hallett Boats Suck

LMAO, Skip......ahhh....never mind....... :o

Loooks good dude!  :thumbup:

Ray

711
The Olds 455, Chevy 454 and Ford 460 are really almost identical in performance in stock form given the same pump, hull, etc. It's when you start hot rodding the engines the differences rear their ugly head.

Chevy is the cheapest to build and add HP to, as parts are everywhere and dirt cheap, and every engine shop in North America probably does 2-3 Chevy engines for any sum of all other engines they do combined. Some will argue because parts break so often the aftermarket floods to cash in on this, or the same for "inferior" parts. I beleive it simply stems from the fact that the smalll block Chevy has been in existance nearly untouched for going on 60 years, and the BBC just benefits from "guilt by association" and nearly the same for 40 years. 

The 460 Ford is popular, and was with the boat builders, because it's so damn strong to begin with, for one, and you can build BIG hp fairly easily and inexpensively while not changing a thing on the bottom end as far as rods, main caps, crank, etc.  In fact, a little birdie told me of a rumour of a dyno pull only engine being built. Stock 2 bolt block, cast crank, twin turbos and hoping for 2000 HP just to prove a point. But it is far more expensive to "Go Big" on this engine vs the Chevy.

The 455 is simply the odd man out in this arena. Probably why you see more of them on CL. BBF and BBC boats command higher prices, and if you notice, at least I do, Pump brand is mentioned early and often if it's  Berk, rarely if at all on a Jacuzzi or Panther.

Ray

712
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: high cooling water psi
« on: August 01, 2011, 07:44:54 AM »
Well may have spoke too soon, I added the psi valve from hardin and works great. Also replaces blown water pump cover seal and flushed oil pan and filled with fresh oil. After a short run im still getting alot of h2o in the oil so thinking my head gaskets shot. Running dry exaust at the moment and not burning any thing or steaming out of pipes but water must be getting in somewhere along the line. And recomenddations on replacement gasket? Runing iron heads stock compression block was just decked and magnafluxed so should be legit there.

Check the intake manifold gasket before you get going too far. 9 chances out of 10, its the intake manifold gasket causing milkshakes on the 455. Don't use the "bathtub"" style, use the Fel-Pro Print-o-seals. Throw out the end seals, use a nice bead of clear silicone on the ends. Wipe some of the silicone with your finger around the water ports on the head, intake and both sides of the gasket, and gaska-cinch the same way around the intake ports on the head, intake and both sides of the gasket when you install.  :thumbup:

Ray

713
Projects / Re: BP's Tahiti Bubble
« on: August 01, 2011, 07:14:13 AM »
Digging your hoses and routing!  ;) Very different!

Only time I ever saw that stuff used was on a beer bong!  :thumbup:

Ray

714
Jet Pumps / Re: In need of help with 12jg-a pump
« on: July 31, 2011, 10:08:29 PM »
You can do that. I would buy the whole Place kit, handle and all were I (And I have) to do it though.  Adapting over your handle would probably cause issues, for one, and probably no cheaper when you price out the price of a diverter, a new cable, the transom seal for the new cable, etc.

You are ALSO going to need, bettter write this parts list all down. A new steering cable tube, nuts and seal for the transom adaptor, the Jet-O-Vator one will not work. A new gasket for the bowl to nozzle adaptor, because it'll need to be removed, cleaned and rotated 90* then reinstallled. You will need to seal the little hole left that will be under where the steering tube comes through on the transom adaptor, and might need a steering cable extension, and possibly a new washer for the F/R cable seal (if not a new, longer cable) if it needs more slack.

Post or PM me the pics. It's not as simple as "rip it out and drop a Place unit in there" kinda deal. Hate to see you spend a grand when maybe a few bucks will get the thing working like it's supposed to......... :sly:

Ray 

715
Not too sure what pan it is. My father refered to it a a jet pan but is unsure of the manufacturer or intended application. I do know I can't see the drain plug and the pan comes within 1/2 inch of the bottom of the boat so i doubt I can install a valve and hose to the plug hole. Thanks for the tips on running the boat. I'm not planning on upping the RPM's. I'm just going to run it a bit to make sure everything is kosher.

If it's a jet pan, it'll have a drain plug at one of the bottom, rear, side corners of the pan. I HAVE seen a couple with them in the middle rear, but those have also had another in the former location.  ;)

And yeah, what Bob said!  :thumbup:

Ray

716
The No Wake Zone / Re: Built Ford Tough
« on: July 31, 2011, 09:39:26 PM »
Judging by MY reaction trying to read the Ford logo......I think it's either "I'm gonna get slappped if I see a gerl wearing this" (Which is not unusual.......got in trouble once when this girl in front of me at the bank has them black Shorty shorts on that always say something like "pink", but these said "cheer"..........and I did.......She didn't hafta slap me, Cindy did.........)

OR, that's the reaction the wearer is after........either way, I'm a fan of the Shirt!!!!

Ray

717
The No Wake Zone / Re: need motivation
« on: July 31, 2011, 09:31:38 PM »
I'll make an office table out of the blower...

Mine tend to see some time on the Kitchen counter.......long standing Joke around here.....One loved member sold his boat, then his wife got a new kitchen......no more boat.....So a few of us, whenever we get new shiney parts, make sure we take the pics of the parts in our old, beat up kitchens........but WE have BOATS!   :thumbup:

Seriously though, Turbos on a jet boat is something I've only seen a few times. Makes absolutely perfect sense, and rock harder, probably more efficient than the blower. They will, and do rock! Most of us come from a time when our experiences were Turbos always broke, were a marketing gimmick that really did nothing a half point more compression wouldn't do, etc. Today is a little different, but I will stay with the old skool look of a huffer. When someone sees a huffer, it's WOW! When someone see's Turbos, well, they can see those on their Subaru..........

Ray

718
Your best bet if the boat has not been run on a long time is to get the bow as high as possible, pull the drain plug out of the oil pan, not the block and let it flow out the bildge in to a drain pan. Good luck.

Probably you're best bet. Depending on what oil pan and where the drain plug is, it could now be rigged with a fitting, valve and hose so next time all you do is stick the hose out the hole where the hull drain plug goes, open the valve, and wait.....drink beer whatever.

If it's an automotive pan, the drain plug is likely on the bottom of the pan and a triple jointed midget couldn't get it out.  Then you are left to pulling the engine, as Ralph said, or at least up some, pulling the plug and draining into a pan or the bilge, or sucking it out the dipstick tube with a Motive like vacuum pump. You'd need that either way in this case. Hit Summit Racing or Jeg's up and search Motive.

Ray

Edit: Running on the hose, post some pics of what motor mounts, etc, you have. Should always disconnect the driveline from the engine, then hook the hose to the engine. Start the engine, then CAREFULLY open the hose water so water flows at very low pressure out of the O/B dumps or exhausts.  Sometimes impossible to disconnect the driveines with some mount combinations, and what I HAVE done, is run a pair of hoses from another hose bib on the house, one up the intake and the other up the nozzle as far as I can get it, wide open. Don't do that in the driveway! You're gonna soak down your entire garage, house, anything nearby. If anything, point the rear of the boat at the neighbors house or the street doing it this way.

719
Jet Pumps / Re: In need of help with 12jg-a pump
« on: July 31, 2011, 08:37:34 PM »
Heres pics of the ones I had, as you can see, the nozzle looks a LOT different than the nozzle you have. These were off 12 JG's as well.



These are all the steering cable/through transom parts. Seems you have all this...




Ray

720
Jet Pumps / Re: In need of help with 12jg-a pump
« on: July 31, 2011, 08:30:32 PM »
Stand back a little further and take/post a pic of the whole pump and nozzle. somethings not right at all with you're hardware.

Parts look like Berk Jetovator and parts look like a Bushwhacker trim nozzle hacked together maybe?   :screwy:

Here's a breakdown of all the parts of a Jet-O-Vater, which, at the end of your steering cable looks right. The rest dont. Get a pic of the steering cable, jet0vater cable inside the transom as well. Just wwent through all this, twice, chasing down all the parts for the pair of Jetovaters I recently sold. With all the correct parts, they work well!



Some of the missing parts if I'm right, ARE still available, pricey as hell though, in which case I'd look for a complete used Jetovater (Sold mine for $250 each), or as Chris said, replace the whole thing with a Place Diverter, which is another animal altogether. Tom or Jim might have the used parts you'd need though. The expensive stuff, you already have........The transom seal/steering tube/spring and related hardware is over $300 to replace that stuff.

Ray

721
Jet Pumps / Re: Jacuzzi YJ to WJ swap.......SCORE!!!!!!!!!!
« on: July 31, 2011, 04:07:11 PM »
Score one, well, actually, more than a dozen!, But thank you 75Fantasy for finding the smoking freaking deal of the century pump! Thanks to Tom JBP for telling me exactly what I was gonna run into, and did, Ralph, Proppy, the rest. This all actually worked out tits and just over a grand!

New Energized Jacuzzi YJ "Golden Eagle" pump installed complete with Place Diverter, 1 header installed, the other has serious issues hopefully we can get taken care of tomorrow, new cables, helm, plumbing (Flytime, you're NOT gonna beleive how those logs were plumbed......could be the root of all that was evil in the world), alternator,

Took awhile, but as most of you know, I sold the boat to a friend with contingincies and wasn't leaving my money out there to hang again.

But it's in, cool as hell, rerouted cables O/T, a lot of other little things that I did not realize about the boat until Serg told me the issues he was having.



Ray

722
The No Wake Zone / Re: New here
« on: July 31, 2011, 03:52:06 PM »
Welcome!

Yeah, we get together, well, some more than others. and I actually show up once iin awhile....... >:D

Get some pics up!  :thumbup:

Ray

723
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: CIPA mirror / 48" towable tube
« on: July 31, 2011, 03:48:49 PM »
I wanna know just HOW MANY GUYS, and HOW MANY BEERS it took to sink that tube completely underwater to check for leaks.......... :sly:   Any pics?????

Sent this to my Aunt....She's looking for one!  ;)

RAy

724
The No Wake Zone / Re: need motivation
« on: July 31, 2011, 03:45:55 PM »
Yeah, ditch the blower, go with turobos. Send all your worthless stuff over here to the "Land of Misfit Blowers"..........

Ray

725
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: weird oil pan issue
« on: July 31, 2011, 03:36:40 PM »
Somebody call Mythbusters or get those "Searching for Bigfoot" guys to do something worthwhile.....Saw that for the first time the other day....don't watch much TV....but what a bunch of idiots running around doing nothin'..... :screwy:

The harmonics thing? maybe. Combination somewhat of both? Who knows?

The fact that BOTH happened directly under the pickup, almost completely different designs and manufacturing technique, I think is very important. And I can honestly beleive that suction/vacuum created by a HV oil pump through the pickup tube theory could honestly cause enough flex do this over a relatively short period of time. And probably your answer, completely feasible.

Back in HS, yes I know, back when Dinosaurs roamed the earth and Girls actually said "no", my Physics teacher showed us how vacuum worked by hooking up one of those little compressors (Older version and probably not as efficent) that everyone uses nowadays to inflate water toys or beds to a 55 gallon drum through a T fitting. Took about a half an hour before the first loud noise of something cringing from the strain, but in the end, about 2 hours, the thing looked like a smashed and squashed beer can. Those pumps only put out about, what, 10 PSI???  I couldn't get the side of an oil drum to flex without a LOT of effort either. Any cavitation, however unlikely, would cause extreme flex both ways if that theory proves true.

I would repair VERY carefully or replace the pans. Welding on them in this high stress area that apparantly showed it's ugly head doesn't seem like a very good idea to me. I would also make sure, next time, that the pickup is maybe a bit higher off the bottom than we would normally do. I think 3/8" is pretty much as close as any of us go, but I think after seeing this, I may just go to 1/2 inch or more on those types of pans. 

Just thinking out loud.

Ray

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