Ok I need some advice. One of my projects I have going on right now has some engine issues. Here is the link.

http://www.socaljetboats.com/engine-mechanical-electrical/olds-455-with-a-problem/msg171231/#msg171231

I have a guy that is looking to sell a late 70's BBC that is a 2-Bolt main. From what the guy is telling me the engine has been sitting for about 5 years but still turns over fine. It was pulled out of a 80's eliminator and he trashed the boat so now he is selling the engine. He is selling the BBC for $600 and it has all the mounts, alternator, starter, Moroso valve covers, Edelbrock Intake manifold, and Rewarder Headers with lines. Is this worth doing the swap? If you look at the link above you will see that the 455 will need some machine work and new pistons and then need to be rebuilt. I would also rebuild the 454 but I would much rather put money into a 454 over a 455 Olds.

What are your thoughts?

Hard to argue with the cost even if the engine is tired, accessories would cost more than that I think,, assuming it has a marine pan.

John Avery at Engine Dynamics in Baldwin Park,,, might tell him Barry sent you. 

Engine Dynamics

    (626) 337-4614

4152 Puente Ave, #B, Baldwin Park, CA 91706

Thats what i was thinking but nothing comes out even with water in the block  maybe the're plugged up?  What are my options to get them functional again?

Remove the drain from the block as was stated, then carefully use a screwdriver or punch to try and dig out some of the sand and debris.  I have had to use an electric drill on some occasionally(usually bare blocks on an engine stand),, whatever you do keep in mind that you don't want to drive something through the cylinder wall. 

i would like to make a block mounted ski tow for my boat i hear that the ot headers burn thru ski ropes. i have a few ideas about how to avoid this but i would like to hear the trail and error of others to give me better ideas. if pics could be posted so i can get a visual that would be great thanks kyle

The way we used to deal with that was to make up a short extension for the ski rope with rubber hose over it (maybe 3/8" fuel line if you are using 1/4" rope).  Easy enough to loop it through the end of the ski rope,, not hard to change to use different ropes.  They were called "burn lines", very common with dry headers.

It was a new gasket. And the u clamp was tight. I could understand maybe if the oil was seeping out but its spraying out. I was thinking of replcing the pcv valves just to make sure they are working properly. But I wouldn't think them not working would build up that much pressure for the oil to force itself out somewhere. This problem is very confusing.

I would think it would push the dipstick out first, unless your pan has a screw in dipstick.  You may have a lot of crankcase pressure, a leak down test could help determine that.  I would still think there is a problem with your new gasket, I have never seen oil "spray" out of a distributor gasket.  I would say have another look at the gasket, maybe it got pinched or didn't seat right.  Did you replace the gasket because it was spraying out already?

Are you saying oil comes out of the distributor,, or just around the distributor base gasket?

If it's actually inside the distributor, the only thing that makes much sense is that the distributor bushings are worn out, and you have excess crankcase pressure.  Do you have oil coming out of the breathers at all, or dipstick tube? 

The Permatex #2 Glenn mentioned is real good stuff. I simply wipe a little of the same RTV I made the beads on the front and back of the lifter valley because, invariably, I got a lot of extra mess of the stuff from the caulking gun to use anyway. The Gaskacinch would do the same thing. 

Word of note about not using the rubber end gaskets. A LOT of aftermarket intake manifolds won't even fit on the engine when trying to use them. The Weiand Tunnel for the 460 being one, the BDS and Blue Thunder blower manifolds being another. Had an issue with the Torker on my Olds with that also. Just good practice to eliminate them altogether.

Barry's (obnoxious001) has a good article over on PB installing a blower manifold you might want to take a peek at. Manny install is on page 2

http://www.performanceboats.com/user-how-section/25224-blown-injected-540-bbc-build-2.html

Ray

That's the way I still do it,, don't fix what isn't broken.  Note that the Permatex I use is the aviation grade stuff.  I don't necessarily agree at all with letting the silicone ends skin, since it means it may not adhere well to the manifold,, I don't care for leaks!

Hi All,

 I just picked up my first jet boat and wanted to change the oil before I take it to the river. I have a 18ft Advantage open bow running a BBC 454. What type of engine oil and weight is recommend?

Thanks

The Valvoline VR 1 is perhaps the easiest to find,, most of the parts stores sell it.  I like Brad Penn oil, but it's not going to be as easy to find.

Did you try switching back and have it die again?  Do both tanks feed a single fuel filter?

bump

after a rebuild on my olds 455 it took a shlt and locked up after 15 min of run time

Oldsmobiles are very particular about oiling for a "performance" application.   Have you talked to whoever rebuilt it to see if they will do anything for you?  You would want to try and determine what caused the problem so you don't just put bearings in it and have it happen again. 

The impeller still sucks, water that is.

For what an impeller costs, you probably should install a new one each season,, maybe keep the old one for a spare if it's still ok.  No sense ruining a trip with a broken impeller, or having to get broken vanes out of water hoses.

I have a couple set up questions if anyone has ever messed with these. I just bought one that im going to use in my flat bottom. I know that there needs to be a ground switch to turn the motor off and on again. My question is, is there anything to do so that I won't get juiced when the boat is running? My brothers old boat had a shocking problem with an HEI. Also it's a points style, is there a good place to get parts?

If you just bought a used one,, spend the time and money to have it checked out so you don't fight the thing from the  beginning.  Zig is maybe 4 weeks out or so, we are waiting on one that is at his shop for an injected engine that is supposed to dyno next week.

I ran a mag on my turbo ski race engine years ago with no issues, and it always started easily with no switch off/switch on games, but it was a low compression engine (for the turbos).  On a higher compression engine, if the starter does not spin the engine quick enough, it will be hard to start with a mag, thus the concept of spin it and flip the switch.  The .018"-.020" plug gap is also correct and critical if you want it to run.

Some timing lights work with a mag, no problem, can't recall what brand I was using when I ran mine, but my engine always ran well, never burned pistons.  Tachometer is another story, you will need to do some research on that, may be an adapter that lets you run your Moon tach if it's not compatible,, should be able to call them and ask?