For the experts on the MSD 6AL, I think that's it, the one that takes the limiter chip, is it possible to hook a switch the spot where the chip goes or rig something up so I could manually activate that function?  Thanks in advance,
Greg

I have a pair of black bucket seats, just like the ones in this auction.  
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/X2-T-R-STYLE-BLACK-JDM-CLOTH-RACING-SEATS-FORD-FOCUS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c54145ffaQQitemZ190389182458QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

They are in like new condition, one of the side bolsters along the bottom is broken, it's still attached but you can move it.  I had them in my Jeep, they are comfortable, but they don't work so well in that application, which is why the bolster broke, made it so you had to climb in as opposed to just hopping in and my friend broke the one when getting out of the Jeep after a day of wheelin.  They have the tracks on them , I don't have a pic handy, but they are the same ones as you see in that auction (that is not my auction either).  I only want $80.00 for the pair.  In Redondo Beach, but I am also in Diamond Bar from time to time.  I lowered the price to 80 they are in my way and I want them gone, anything interesting to trade?

Before I ebay or craigslist this stuff, anyone do VW stuff anymore?  I have some VW engine stuff that I've had laying around for, well about 15 years, sold my buggy a while back and never got around to using this stuff,  I have a block, it's been machined for 92 mm piston barrels, it was also machined for full flow on the oil system, (whatever that means anymore it's been too long since I've worked on a VW), that was done by a company called Rimco in OC. I also had the block reinforced at a spot where they are prone to cracking, had a piece welded over that area, done by Micro-tig in covina. (it wasn't cracked, I just wanted the insurance)  I have the pistons, 92mm Mahle, forged, still in the box, made for stock stroke, back then you're only choice was to shim the barrels for a stroker, you can still get the shims, an Engle cam, not sure of the specs, a pair of 48 Webers with manifolds, not sure which models they are, no stacks for them but I think I have the linkage, have a Holley bug spray carb that needs a float and the manifold for it (that one is single port), a set of zoomie buggie exhaust in good condition, and some other odds and ends.   I can get some pics for you in a few days since it's stored at my folks place if there is any interest. 
Greg     surfsidegreg@aol.com

GT, consider it yours.   I said I had the main bearings on the crank, but it turns out I don't.  I'll look for em.  The rod bearings are there though, and the numbers still visible on the rods.

Yes to both questions. 

My boat never saw any salt water and all the automotive grade wiring I used way back when had corrosion on the ends where the connections were.  It is a little more pricey, although I bought all my wiring from a guy on Ebay when I redid mine and it wasn't any more expensive than if I had gone to the auto parts store and bought regular automotive wiring.   Copper will corrode after time in the presence of moisture, especially if it's touching another metal.  X2 on the shrink tubing over all connectors. 

I'd also take a look at the packing seals. 

I know it's a BBF in question, it just might be cheaper to use BBC stuff with some adapter plates.  I think that's how Lightning does it anyway.

That boat needs a set of water jacketed headers, i.e.  a tube inside a tube. 

You don't want those headers under a cover, unless you are looking to start a fire. First off they don't usually have water running thru them at low RPM's and will get very hot, even with water flowing they are not cool to the touch, and the weep holes that let out excess water will fill the area under the hatch with exhaust fumes.   If you want something covered you are going to need water JACKETED headers, I think Lightning Manufacturing makes them. 

Those alternators require an external regulator, if it is the typical Ford alternator that went on just about every Ford from the mid 60's thru the early 80's.

It's 1-13/16"    not sure about the keyway.