Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
HD, there are many many more...
Beach towels, ice chests, plastic tool boxes, flip flops, ignition wires, bilge pump hoses, timing light pickups, duffle bags, ski flags, knee boards, bugs, oil...LOL
don't ask me why I know this though
GT
Not to thread jack, if I am, but what ever happened to the Predator Variable venturi carbs? They were all the rage and everywhere in the 80's? Seems to me a design like that would solve everything, no?
Ray
Update, just checked their website. They're still around. Not very technologically advanced, judging by the website, but might be interesting to experiment with this, lol. Bid on a used one on Ebay. Just to see one, really, might find a use for it if I get it.
Apparently, very limited production. Kinda like the Seecamp .32 automatics everyone wants.
. Oh well, I'm sure my new (to me) 660s will do the job. I do know that you will learn as you go and that sometimes the same thing won't work twice. I really wish I understood that........
Like I said origionally, grain of salt
GT
I like it, but not really, the 1.5"hg is only true if the engine makes peak load, that being said, if you start to run out of camshaft (volumetric efficiancy drops off) your going to get faulty info on your vacuum gauge and read it like it is overcarbed, when in reality it is turning too damn fast (too much RPM for the engine to use).
The debate would be, is the carb matched to the engine? AND is the engine matched to the load?. Let's make an example of a stock 454 with a super mild cam and put a 800 CFM carb on top of it, now run the engine with a "C" impeller and run WOT which should bring the engine RPM to 5,500 RPM or so, you will have less than 1.5"hg under the carb but the engine would be completely out of it's comfortable VE and not gain any HP, would probably lose HP...Now there could be two possible "fixes" (probably more, but lets keep it simple) 1. Valvetrain/camshaft change to get the motor to use the higher RPM. 2. taller or bigger impeller to lower the RPM at WOT, either should get you closer, but a carb would not fix anything...
Now take the same 454 with baseball sized ports and rediculous valves and the gnarliest cam money could buy, same 800 CFM carb. this time use a "AA" impeller (not bringing up an "HH" because most of us won't see one for a while
There is a lot to selecting the proper size and type of carb/carbs. and a lot of info. needs to be taken into consideration, I like the trial and error method myself, a vacuum gauge, AF ratio meter and cylinder pyrometer or if headers an infra red thermometer are very useful tools to get you there. Which is why on an everyday non race mill I like a spread bore vacuum secondary, they will literally only pull in what it can use (providing it's set up right..).
Not trying to start any shiat, just joining in the discussion....(I think the term "grain of salt" should apply
GT
). Obviously we need to swap those impellers around and try again. 
Loud pipes save lives !!
"Junk" was a bad choice of words on my part
Thanks Jeff
, now get back to work on YOUR boat (not your father in laws)
get the manual and a new T valve cause what you have now is JUNK!!!Easy there Stevie, as SLCKREG said there's lots of ways to plump a jet boat. I had my Lancer done something like this for many years and never had a problem with water in the oil at idle. It had full water flow to the injection lines (no Basset valve), the injection lines were plugged and then drilled out just enough to get a slight mist of water out of the weep holes at idle. I might add that it was like this from when it was built in 2000 until it came apart last year, and the headers still look new except for the area between the heads and the injection lines. I was told to do it that way by an old timer that explained that it takes very little water to save the chrome and that the more water you run through the headers the more backpressure your adding.
Screw the 12 steps, save them all from people on this site (that will remain nameless) from taking them to the dump!
My column is standard length. I would appreciate if you would check that out.I just checked it, it turns but its verry stiff. Even I wouldnt use it and I'm a cheap ###.
I have the same system and its just about locked up solid. I pulled it last night and am in need of the cable. Anyone happen to have one? I wrote down my lengths but forgot them at the house Im pretty sure it was 16' from the cable end to end of rack but ill look forsure tonight.
Thanks in advance
Daniel
"Propless"--the Jack Kavorkian of dying jet boat hulls. Look in the yellow pages under "Have sawsall, will travel." I got one--what do you charge?
Thank gawd that wasn't the Lancer!
Is a trailer rebuild the next tutorial?
Ray
. I could show my method of removing surface rust.............. with a sawzall I have to admit that I was a bit leary of proppy's method, but I have to say that it is much easier to work on the floor without the pesky top in the way. I will do all of my boats this way from now on. Thanks Proppy for makin a difference and helpin out the newbs 1 boat at a time.
. The project boat today is a Tahiti with a badly rotten floor (and other issues).
) that its easier to do this if you give yourself some working room by removing the unneeded parts of the hull that might get in your way. So I always prefer to separate the two halves of the hull first. This is quite easy to do with a Skill saw, but you choice of saws is your decision. 
. 
aww man...not on my site!
j/k...congrats tom...whats your plans?
PM me and let me know what you want for the flat!!
You go Jefe' geeze your lookin like Cal Worthington ! (used vehicles)
You already have the perfect boat............just needs a jet.
