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Messages - double-d

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1
The No Wake Zone / Re: Air Locking the pump
« on: June 02, 2013, 06:53:04 PM »
An old post but i this may help some people from floating around the launch ramp powerless until the pump primes.

All you have to do is while the boat is on the trailer and in the water, open up the your garden hose hook up valve.

keep venting untill the water starts coming out steady, then shut'r off.

fire up the boat and your good to go, works like a champ

I was going to do the prime-a-jet thing but i found this out by accident...

brand new prime a jet for sale now....30 bucks shipped.

2
Videos (SCJB.tv) / Re: Rogers on The Parker Strip
« on: August 02, 2012, 08:15:14 PM »
that thing scoots! what is your engine/ pump set up?

3
Videos (SCJB.tv) / Re: el cap nitrous runs and almost hit a buoy
« on: August 01, 2012, 09:50:12 AM »
Gps is 60 all motor, I haven't gps'd it on the bottle. But it is a 300-400 rpm increase.  That should be good for at least 5-6mph.  Yeah, there is a jump alright, so much that my tach broke. I'm hooked.

4
Videos (SCJB.tv) / el cap nitrous runs and almost hit a buoy
« on: July 31, 2012, 10:15:52 PM »
for your viewing enjoyment....the bottle works like a champ...


5
SoCal Lakes / Re: El Cap soon, Anyone going?
« on: June 19, 2012, 12:47:33 PM »
I'll be out there friday do a bit of testin' and hopefully not fixin'. Anyone else going?

7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: holley 4150 carb leak
« on: June 17, 2012, 08:27:20 PM »
I have had good luck with AED rebuild kits as well. You can tell a holley kits from the packaging. They will have the hardware crewchief was talking about.
Another good part to get are the clear float bowl sight plugs. They make setting the float level easy without spilling gas all over. Moroso and someother companies make them.

8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: holley 4150 carb leak
« on: June 17, 2012, 11:16:14 AM »
Intake manifold/Engine vac draws the secs open.
They basically open automaticlly, they kind of a b to see if they are opening all the way because u need to watch them while going full speed...
 when I went to oriellys in escondido, they a have a rebuild kit for 25-30 bucks, where are u located? Ill rebuild it for 40 and teach u everything u need to know.

9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: holley 4150 carb leak
« on: June 16, 2012, 08:36:01 PM »
You have a vac sec carb there. If u want to drain it just turn it upside down.  The primary and secondary jets are in the metering blocks, same blocks where the idle mix screws are.  Take off the float bowls and youll see the jets...

10
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: gas peddles (3)
« on: May 31, 2012, 11:55:27 AM »
push or pull? pics? will you ship 'em?

11
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 03, 2011, 12:48:41 PM »
Yeah got oil mods galore, -8 returns on the back of the heads going back to a 10 qt oil pan, oil restricted cam and main bearings.

what carb size carb your runnin'?

This year I only reduced the timing curve time, she runs a a lot better. I bought an 850 holley and a torker intake but haven't put it on yet.


12
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 10, 2010, 08:51:57 PM »
Success! took out the boat this weekend with the light silver spings in the distributor. +16 base timing and 21 advance bushing. So a total advance of 37. Gained gained 200 rpm and maxed at 5100 rpm. Didn't get any MPH readings though, too many fisherman out there and the speed limit is 35.

Swapped over to a piece of shit Ebay 850 Holley knock off mainbody and base plate. Don't buy 'em!! The float bowl screws weren't tapped right, down leg boosters are crooked and the accelerator pump nozzles squirt so wide the fuel doesn't go directly in the carb.  Total Junk!! Either way I Gained 100 rpm, peaked at 5200! Vac looks like it dropped down to 1-1.5.

Think I'm going to get the timing up another degree or 2 and lighter on the advance springs. Stickin' with the 750 holley for now, savin' up for a better 850 and the torker intake.

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 04, 2010, 09:50:33 PM »
now that's funny! :thumbup: :thumbup:

14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 04, 2010, 09:30:19 PM »
....all in at 2k, wow that's quick, I'm not going to run that curve first, my compression is too high to try that right off the bat.

Well your starting to talk me out of going for the higher rpm when you said its eaiser to go for speed.  Since the olds motor doesn't quite do so hot up in the higher rpm range and its got gobs of torque i figure the double A will be a safer way to go. RPM wise. Swapping the impeller will be the last thing I do.  I'll try the can't miss setup first.

I should be there at 3/4 to 1" with the 850


15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: October 04, 2010, 08:55:08 PM »
Yeah I would love to squeeze and I had a kit on it a few years ago.  I could really find a feesible place for the bottle that wasn't real close to headers, plus I would have killed space for chairs, anchor and what not.I took it off. still got the kit, maybe someday i'll do it up.

Well rigged up the boat with the vac gauge keeping the 750, and t/r on there for now.  I got some good base line runs of 13hg at idle and 2hg at wide open doing 59 on gps. 
 
After reading the a practical olds article i saw in there that the timing should be maxed out at 2500-2800. I went back to the msd chart and noticed the ignition curve is stock at doesn't max out until 5k with 21 degrees total advance. My baseline timing is 12, so i bumped it up 14 ran it, gained 1hg at idle but wot was hardly noticable.  Bumped it up to 16 degrees  and with 15 on the vac the engine sounded healther and starterd better. Got 60 out of it. Then went up 2 jet sizes on the secondaries. that as hardly noticeable. But i didn't do a full throttle kill and check the plugs. I ordered an advance kit to change to a more agressive curve. Any suggestions on timing curves to use. I'll swap to the 850 after that's dialed in.

here is some info i had found on carburation, this i very simalar to what my holley carb book says. I also read 3hg for a 2 barrel and .75hg for dual 4's.

Whether a carburetor never meets its rated airflow capacity or exceeds it is to some degree irrelevant. The key point is that for maximum performance a carburetor must deliver the airflow capacity demanded by the engine. As a general point of reference, if manifold vacuum exceeds 1.5 in/Hg (at WOT) on an engine equipped with a four-barrel, the carburetor is too small; if it falls below 1.5 in/Hg, the carburetor is too large. Obviously, there is at least one hole in that theory because any manifold vacuum level above zero represents a throttled condition, which means an engine won’t produce maximum power. However, if a carburetor is large enough to drop WOT manifold vacuum levels to zero, drivability issues at part throttle may result and low airflow velocities may negatively impact power. The key is to find that magical airflow capacity that keeps air velocities high, without excessively restricting flow.

I contacted comp cams to see if they have any dyno charts of what the hp/ torque numbers look like with the cam -4 straight up and +4 advanced. The guy said they don't have anything.  I replied with I find that hard to believe they haven't done that with one single cam in there whole inventory.  Please forward to the dyno dept. We'll see what he has to say.

I am leaning to the torker manifold, 850 then maybe the double A. I know the victor is probably better but I think I want to build for torque if double A goes in. But that won't be until next season since my test water, lake hodges closes halloween.








16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 30, 2010, 09:28:29 PM »
based getting the pump in the water more and a bit more roost.  It seems like the droop snoot is the hot set up, but i don't wanna screw around with cable and linkage BS. I figured a mini droop would be a good comparmise.  if it ain't gonna do jack, well thats why I'm here, to figure out what works. :thumbup:

Well, im getting the message that tunnels suck, you ain't hurting my feelings but thats what i'm runnin' at the moment.

It's cheaper to change the manifold then to F around with dual carbs, linkage, finding a dual quad top, blah blah blah.

Ray, the idea i'm planning is using the vac gauge is see how the changes effect the motor. You had mentioned throttle response, plugs and performance. The vac gauge should tell this, since we all know an engine is a big air pump. If I make a change that for example increases manifold vac at wide open throttle then I know it was a change for the better.  Vac also helps for sizing power valves.

I asked before if the guys who had tunnel rams and dual carb about there secondaries being vac or mech because IMO 1260 cfm is way over carbed for the volume of air/fuel one cylinder can process. But maybe i don't know shit.  If they were vac then the secondarys only open when there is enough vac to do so.  Since his boat idled better and better throttle reponse, I was thinking the secondaries where not opening or only at the top end... When the 1 to 1 linkage came into play that but the kabaash on vac seconday theory.  Gt mentioned an 850 and a victor doing about the same rpm. Shit i'd rather change a manifold stuff a double A in the pump and rip.

 I foundnthis article
http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbuild/154_0711_455_bigblock_project_murderous_overkill_part_vi/index.html

Although we pushed Welfringer for specifics, we were unable to learn much more than the Edelbrock Torker manifold (PN 2730) underwent Mondello's proprietary blueprinting process. In a nutshell, the intake was port-matched to the cylinder heads using Mondello's gaskets and the plenum and ports were reworked to increase flow-a lot. Mondello also port-matched the Edelbrock Victor manifold (PN 2810) that we tested on Westech's dyno. The Victor was too macho for our engine, proving it needed even more compression, camshaft, and rpm to be happy. The Mondello-modded Torker proved to be an absolutely perfect match for the rest of the combo.


Displacement: 468ci
Bore x stroke: 4.185 x 4.250 inches
Compression ratio: 10.75:1
Rod length, center to center: 6.735 inches
Piston deck height: 0.002-inch
Chamber volume: 77cc
Rod bearing clearance: 0.025-inch
Crank endplay: 0.004-inch
Piston-ring end gap: 0.014-inch (top), 0.018-inch (middle), 0.025-inch (bottom)
Piston-to-wall clearance: 0.005-inch
Camshaft type: Comp Cams solid roller
Valve lift: 0.640-inch (int.), 0.649-inch (exh.)
Duration at 0.050: 268/276 degrees
Lash (hot): 0.020-inch
Lobe separation: 110 degrees
Valve spring (seat): 250 pounds at 1.750-inch

They have a monster cam in this thing and i they say victor is too much and the torker is the way to go.  Anyone run a torker and see better results?






17
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 30, 2010, 08:43:07 AM »
jetting is 78/84
plug color this week is going to look a bit more rich, it's been 110 outside the last time i ran it, but the rpm has always been the same.

the jet...
stainless A, rex marine performance ramp scoop, 4 degree wedge, and place diveter.
has about fifteen tanks of gas throught it since rebuild.
I'm considering a mini droop.

18
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 29, 2010, 10:33:46 PM »
for the guys with dual carbs, are the mech or vac secondaries?

its a dual plane upper manifold so that sux.  Maybe I'll get my precision sawsall out.

Checked the plugs and they all looked pretty close in color but the ones in the back looked more rich. Definitley not what i was expecting according to what was said.

New vac gauge on the way.  So when I run this sumbitch, I should be looking for the lowest amount of vacuum when i romp on it from dead stop or cruz on the primarys then floor it? Obviously its not vac at max rpm. Or do both say something about engine performance?  I'm diggin into a holley carb book tonite to find out more on manifold vac.

double D
(   .   )  (   .   )

19
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 29, 2010, 01:07:35 PM »
Glass cutter/ Ford lover,

Since you’re enjoying this sooo much,  I’m gonna need 4.95 per min, pay pal accepted! Haha need to pay for a dual carb set up!

Gt,

11.5-12 I think is good vac at idle, not sure at wot yet.

I took the choke off the side of the carb a few years back, after some reading last night, i discovered there is a vac circuit there that is now open,  I'll plug it with, I don't know what yet, and see if more vac is gained.


If you sbc wanted smaller ratio in the corners, that would equal less air/fuel right?

Sounds like your saying that jet boats need torque at the upper end of the power curve.  Since a later-closing intake can enhance top-end torque at the expense of low-end torque has anyone run their cam 4 degrees retarded and had better results?

Right now the plan of attack is to get a vac gauge, that I can read while doing 60+ w/ the 750,  then step up to the 850 and check it again.

Propless, I gotta stick with a single carb for now.  I’ll check the intake to see if it’s dual plane, but I know Offy made a single plane upper for jet boat use. 
   I’ll check the plugs and see if the outer cylinders are leaner.


20
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 28, 2010, 10:30:31 PM »
ha! they probably had the tach switched to 6 cylinder

i picked 6k because that is what the cam is rated to.

yup single carb tunnel ram. I don't know why people frown on 'em, it's pulling good vac, other then they have no bottom end on the street, on a boat that doesn't matter.
offys carb selector says the manifold only needs a 650-700 with single carb, they don't specify displacement though.

GT so are you saying to go dual carbs? do you know what cam your buddy has? I would be happy with 5200 @ 70! it would be cheaper to change the cam.

here's an article i found, looks like an 850 is the min.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0302phr_oldsmobile_455ci_engine_build/index.html


Dyno Results
STOCK REBUILD

With an Edelbrock Performer manifold,
 a Demon 850-cfm carb, MSD ignition,
and Hooker headers

RPM TORQUE HP
3,000 525 300
3,100 522 308
3,200 522 318
3,300 521 328
3,400 525 340
3,500 529 352
3,600 533 365
3,700 532 375
3,800 528 382
3,900 522 388
4,000 516 393
4,100 507 396
4,200 500 400
4,300 492 403
4,400 481 403
4,500 471 404
4,600 459 402
4,700 447 400
4,800 433 395
4,900 424 395
5,000 413 393
5,100 404 393
UPGRADED LEVEL 1- Same as the
 stock rebuild, but with COMP cam,
 rockers, springs, and pushrods

RPM TORQUE HP
3,000 490 280
3,100 490 290
3,200 494 301
3,300 496 312
3,400 507 328
3,500 527 351
3,600 531 364
3,700 536 377
3,800 538 389
3,900 538 400
4,000 536 408
4,100 526 411
4,200 520 416
4,300 513 420
4,400 507 425
4,500 501 429
4,600 494 433
4,700 485 434
4,800 474 433
4,900 465 434
5,000 456 434
5,100 449 436
5,200 442 438
5,300 435 438
5,400 422 434

UPGRADED LEVEL 2- Same as upgraded level 1,
 except for the Offenhauser
 Tunnel Ram, and dual Holley 750-cfm carbs

RPM TORQUE HP
3,000 512 292
3,100 514 304
3,200 518 316
3,300 520 327
3,400 526 341
3,500 535 356
3,600 538 369
3,700 541 381
3,800 537 389
3,900 531 394
4,000 526 401
4,100 518 404
4,200 510 408
4,300 505 413
4,400 498 418
4,500 493 423
4,600 488 427
4,700 481 430
4,800 473 432
4,900 464 433
5,000 456 436
5,100 455 442
5,200 450 445
5,300 447 452
5,400 440 452

21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 28, 2010, 03:40:37 PM »
Well, i'll let you know how long it lasts at 6k.   If it ever gets there, hahaa :thumbup:

base timing is 12 and full advance is 33.

I haven't degreed it, and i know i should.  But installing it straight up is 106 at intake centerline as suggested on the cam card. 

Im really leaning toward upping the carb to an 850, i have done a bunch of reseach and it's looking like i need around 800cfm min for the displacement.
I know it varies, but what vac at wide open would indicate too small a carb?

Any olds guys out there runinn' around 5500 rpm with an A impeller

22
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 28, 2010, 01:11:09 PM »
Ok, here's the american turbine impellar chart

H.P. 9.5   9.25  AA     A     B       C
150 2900 3050 3200 3600 3800 4050
200 3200 3350 3500 4000 4200 4450
250 3450 3600 3700 4300 4500 4800
300 3800 3950 4050 4550 4800 5100
350 4050 4200 4300 4750 5100 5350
400 4250 4400 4500 5050 5300 5600
450 4450 4600 4700 5250 5500 5850
500 4650 4800 4950 5400 5700 6050
550 4800 4950 5100 5550 5850 N/A

ok 6k is probably too high of an expectation. I think I should at least be able to get it to 5400. 


23
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 28, 2010, 11:17:31 AM »
18 foot jetboat with jacuzzi yj with american turbine conversion. "A" impelller
463 olds w/ Ga heads  Ported quite a bit
180lbs compression.
comp cam 42-231-4, 230@ 50   installed straight up
single Holley 750 DP w/ mech secs, plug color is a nice tan.
Offy turbo thrust manifold. Intake manifold vacuum at idle is 11.5
MSD ignition and dist. +12 advance
Bassett over the transom water injected headers. No thermostat, engine temp is always 100F or less.
 
 
This thing runs great but, I can only get this motor to rev to 48-4900 rpm, sure its 61mph, but this thing should get to 6k rpm no? 
I'm getting parts to build up a holley 850, and give it some more cfm, anyone think i should try otherwise?

For the olds guys what carbs, impellars and rpms are you running?
 
thanks
 

 
 

24
WTB / WTB blue or white or ? but not red Bimini
« on: September 12, 2010, 09:31:22 PM »
around 72" wide

please send dimensions,

 make some room in your garage, let me know what you got, and lets make a deal.

located in escondido.

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