The blower shop says 3/4"- 1" cold which is 1/4" hot.  Are you saying to set it 1/4" cold?

TBS instructions:

 "Allow ¾” to 1”of side-to-side movement on the straight (long) side of the belt. With
the engine at full operating temperature you should have ¼” of side-to-side movement.
*Note: Do Not over tighten the belt. Doing so can cause severe damage to the crankshaft and drive components."

If you feel more comfortable with TBS recommendation, then you should stick with that.  With your belt routing, you have more degrees of wrap around the crankshaft and blower pulleys.  I think it would be more difficult for the belt to jump the lips of the idler pulley because centrifugal forces will try to force the belt into the idler pulley.

My concerns would be; the belt coming into contact with itself on the inside, and the belt jumping teeth on the pulleys.  I wouldn't want the belt shredding right behind me.

When you dyno it, you will have a safe environment to break in the engine and make adjustments before you start making power pulls.

Re-reading TBS instructions, it specifically states "side-to-side movement," not deflection in a single direction from static.  Here is diagram from the BDS catalog.  It may be an issue of semantics.  Either way, you will know when you run it.

No coffee yet, forgot the picture

I apologize if you thought I didn’t trust you.

No worries!  No apologies necessary.  You should question everything.  Keep posting.

Cheers

I walked out to the garage this morning and noticed gear oil leaking from the pump upper right fitting (the one at like 2 o clock...the fill hole).  Any idea why this would happen?  The other hole isn't leaking.  I hope this isn't the case, but is there any chance somehow there was water in there and it froze which expanded and pushed the oil out?  I should note, I only had zerk fittings so that is what I put in at the time after I filled it up with oil.  Maybe it is leaking from the zerk?

On the engine front,  I am still hoping to get it dyno'd within the next few weeks. I did get the throttle cable setup for the dyno jimmy rigged up

Five days until D Day









Wish me luck!  I hope she doesn't blow up!

🤟

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If you guys can tell me how to post videos from facebook on here, I'll do it.  It sounds awesome

Took the engine over to Andy Jensen in Nescopeck, PA.  He and his guys are awesome!  Couldn't have asked for a better experience. 













93 Pump gas.  31 degrees timing.  9 pounds of boost.  2.5% overdriven.  472 BBC.   7.9:1 compression

741 HP.    693 TQ.   64 psi oil pressure at 6000 rpm.  38 gallons of fuel per hour (!!! hahaha)


I am stoaked to say the least!!!!  Now I just have to stab it in the boat and hook everything back up!  I can't wait to be rippin!!

The columns with "*" is uncorrected torque  and horsepower numbers and the columns with "**" are corrected numbers?

The * column is at 28 degrees timing, and the ** column is at 31 degrees timing.  Nothing is different other than that.  I am beyond happy with the results considering I was on 93 pump gas and only overdriven by 2.5%.....

As far as the vette.  That is just a c7r car cover.  It is a 2017 Z06 with 610 to the wheels.  Z07 package with the carbon ceramic brakes and stage 3 aero, including the competition suede seats.  It is my dream car and is a blast!!!  I've had her to 175 and it had more but was climbing very slow.  Not like my older 04 Z with 725 rwhp.   That would spin the tires at 90 mph in 3rd!!  Took me a loooooong time to save up for this one (and to find the one with all the options I wanted before I did a few things to make it my own) (I made the shift knob a few years ago and it fit perfect on the mgw shifter so I ran with it).  70 mph-0 in 128 feet.  Almost 1.2 lateral g's.


















Only mods are:

Borla catless x pipe
MGW shifter
BMS air filter
Katech ported throttle body

Back with the boat tonight. I got the water lines plumed, fuel lines on, engine mounts torqued, few other odds and ends...

Imco puke tank and breather lines are on.  (note:  There were already holes in the transom for the puke tank [oddly] so I used them.  I know its a bit lower then the heads, but I can't mount it to the back of the blower like I wanted because of the throttle setup)  Just have to hook up some wiring and order some longer arp bolts for the valve covers and ignition box layout

Now I just need to get it insured.  Had insurance with Progressive after answering all their questions honestly.  Then somehow they didn't know it was an exposed engine, so they dropped me.  I cannot for the life of me find a company that will insure a 700+ hp, 45 year old boat, with over transom headers and an exposed engine. (in Pennsylvania)

http://www.socaljetboats.com/boat-insurance/?PHPSESSID=k1ibt20uvqqlotpil6c5ie4lt4

If you use the SCJB website, there is an insurance section. A lot of guys have gotten insurance through Nikki.

Great job on the boat and the detailed thread. 

    just loved following your project,
    lots & lots of pictures !!!
    insurance (or as i call it 'Legalized Theft')
    is also a dilemma in my neck of the woods
    describing my 40yr old boat to 23yr old girl over the phone
    I could hear the crickets in the background ...
    when I forwarded pictures to her
    her comment was 'wow...cool boat'
    it's the rarity and power they just don't know
    what they are dealing with ??
    Great job and hope your coverage gets sorted


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