SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: avengerdaycruiser on November 03, 2009, 09:05:09 AM
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Well I have bad news. Some of you may remember this project but as I got further into this I found severe damage to the hull
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I picked up a different hull...a 74 Tahiti with the same setup for a 460 and a 12JC for $40.
So the last couple months I have been working on replacing the floor, carpet, tanks and rebuilding the motor.
The body work is now complete and going to be primered today and paint this weekend.
Here's where I am at (sorry about the pictures, girlfriend got a new camera so from now on I will have better ones).
Just want to say thanks to you all, this forum is the best thing that could of ever helped me along the way, I'm 24 and have
never tackled a boat before ???
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Got the boat in primer finally....found some pin holes though so fixing them and back to primer one more time :-\
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I measured the old motor mount configuration in the old boat, since that is what the motor mounts and bell housing came out of and on the new boat the width measurement between the stringers came up an inch narrower. Should I buy blank motor mounts and start fresh or is it safe to modify the old mounts. With drilling holes in the old mount they will end up slotted since the two holes will be so close together. Is that safe ???
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Jumpin' in balls deep ! Way to go. Keep the pics coming :thumbup:
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Thanks, I will............heres a couple shots at the paint booth. I will go down later and take pics off the base coat and lime green graphics. Hopefully we will clear tonight. Man I've been waitin for this day a long time
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Well here are a few more...got the base white down. Ran outta time for the lime green, we can only use the booth on weekends so next time we'll finish her up!
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Fock,I need to get my ass in gear :banghead:I have had my boat longer than you and I am nowhere near primer :'(
keep up the good work buddy :thumbup:
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by the way mine is a 75 super tiger tahiti ;D
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Thanks man. Well I got lucky on this one! Not nearly as much body work as the day cruiser. That and I've been buying mostly new parts since March so hopefully it'll start to go together quickly. Pretty sure my girlfriend will be happy I won't live out in shop doing body work anymore lol.
What is a super tiger?
Still trying to figure out if I can use the old motor mounts, if anyone can help me out :banghead:
Where can I get a SoCal sticker for my boat....I'd like to support the site :thumbup:
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Who told you there were stickers? Bwah hah hah ha
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Haha well you know what I mean I didn't know if I could buy one or if i just had to have one made. Or is that copyright infringment ;D
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I have a qustion about the red circled areas on the gunnel of the hull??? why are there two large holes instead of one? and i am also guessing that maybe the green circled area is for possibly a fuel vent???
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I have a qustion about the red circled areas on the gunnel of the hull??? why are there two large holes instead of one? and i am also guessing that maybe the green circled area is for possibly a fuel vent???
The rearward hole was for a fuel fill, the green one could have been for a vent, but a crappy place for it :-\ . the forward hole is just wrong for a fill, no clue what they did there, sort of curious myself now.....Did this boat have a Redneck roll bar? ;D
How do you catch this stuff? LOL I like the color though...Seen our Southwind?
GT
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Tahiti made a few diffrent boats.I think a daycruiser,low profile jet,bubble deck,super tiger,I think a few more too.On mine I have the two holes above the transom for vent,and gas fillers are the furtherest back on the gunnel.
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Did you not get a vin #tag? It will tell you what boat you have :thumbup:
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Well the forward holes are for a fill and vent...as for the rear the guy tthat sold it to me didn't have the OEM tanks so he found some other ones and put those in...again I live in Oregon you never know what kinda crap we are gonna try next :screwy:
I have the HIN number but not sure where I can find more about what exact hull it is
I have not seen your southwindn GT do you have any pics.
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Well the forward holes are for a fill and vent...as for the rear the guy tthat sold it to me didn't have the OEM tanks so he found some other ones and put those in...again I live in Oregon you never know what kinda crap we are gonna try next :screwy:
I have the HIN number but not sure where I can find more about what exact hull it is
I have not seen your southwindn GT do you have any pics.
Here you go! The white looks similar, the hull design even closer. ;)
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GT
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Made some progress...got the jet installed and the sound system installed! Gonna try to bolt in the motor this weekend maybe
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kinda looks like mine
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Looking good Avenger, the only thing I noticed was the bolts sticking up from your intake, ya need to cut them or you will end up with holes in you oil pan. Didn't know if ya noticed that or not. ;D
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Good call :thumbup: I'll cut them before attempting to install the motor. If you guys notice anything else I am doing wrong I know you will let me know! Just learning as I go ??? Can't wait to get closer to gettin her wet
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Why did you put a mph gauge?thats what gps is for ;D
lookin good.....you are going to be on the water before me thats for sure!
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I know! I already had these guages from the day cruiser, but will probably look for a GPS later maybe next year...to much shit to buy.
Confucius say boat = light wallet ;D
Hows your project coming cakemoto, you were replacing the floor weren't you?
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floor been done,boat is upside down and just doing some sea going filler.then start to prep for bottom paint.
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Finished painting the motor white and getting most of it together. Got it on the hoist and went to drop it in.....just need to modify the motor mounts a lil bit to get everything lined up! Gettin closer guys
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Looks good so far. Keep the pics coming ;D
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Does anyone have any pics of how a 460 alternator bolts up. i'm not sure if I have everything
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hope this helps
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Wow more simple than I thought. Looks like a long sleeve spacer at the top and then a shorter one on the bottom maybe with the tension bracket? I was messin with this stupid bracket all night trying to see how it was gonna fit..........Went next dooe to the neigbors rotting away Lincoln and I think I just realized it was for the power steering. Alternator must of been pulled and that bracket was thrown in the box with the spacers :banghead:
THANKS NORDIE!
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yeah bottom bracket coming from motor plate is adjustible has a slot
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Got the motor aligned and bolted up with the modified mounts. Now time to start the pluming
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I really need help on this part...I want to charge two batteries at once and have a stereo hooked to battery #2 in the front of the boat and battery #1 for the ignition and starter. I have a battery switch where I can draw from bat#1 or bat#2 or both. Just not sure how to wire this switch or the alternator.\
One more question is a Holley 650 double pumper sufficeint for this 460 assuming it has the right jets. It is a stock rebuild besides the upgraded cam
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Oh and I know gonna have to do something about a remote oil filter :D
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nice
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looks great i wish i was as far along asyou ;D ;D ;D
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Performance and top speed will suffer severely with the 650. Even with a mild build you will gain by going to an 800cfm carb.
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yeah i would half to agree with crew on this....skip says it so well about overcarbing a jetboat...you just cant do it...i would say 800-850....should be able to pick one up pretty cheap...and in my opinion go with mechanical secondaries...some will say vacuum secondaries, but i dont agree...plus they are ugly
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Performance and top speed will suffer severely with the 650. Even with a mild build you will gain by going to an 800cfm carb.
Mild Build 460? 850 CFM, IMO. A performance build, best be looking at BIG Dom's or dual carbs. Just my .02
Built many engines years ago, never seen anything want airflow like the 460 before! (I run twin 750 vac secondaries, FWIW)
This is judgemental on where you plan to run the throttle, mind you.
Ray
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Okay so I got the motor ready to fire.....I primed the oil pump and got everything hooked up. The problem I am having is with the starter! I checked the flywheel clearance and shimmed the starter, it is a new IMI HiTorque starter. I am getting a click from the ignition and the motor barely turned over an I get a couple more click sounds and cranking stops. Looking inside the bell housing the starter gear is stuck open against the flywheel. I can then push the gear back with very little effort anf it will pop back into place. Could this just be poor cranking power or is the starter pinion too close to the flywheel. There seems to be no adjustment for that. ANY IDEAS!?
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Okay so I got the motor ready to fire.....I primed the oil pump and got everything hooked up. The problem I am having is with the starter! I checked the flywheel clearance and shimmed the starter, it is a new IMI HiTorque starter. I am getting a click from the ignition and the motor barely turned over an I get a couple more click sounds and cranking stops. Looking inside the bell housing the starter gear is stuck open against the flywheel. I can then push the gear back with very little effort anf it will pop back into place. Could this just be poor cranking power or is the starter pinion too close to the flywheel. There seems to be no adjustment for that. ANY IDEAS!?
Does it actually crank? It sounds like insufficient cranking amps, but I would go through and recheck everything.
Have you tried to bench test the starter by itself?
If the Bendix was really out of alignment, I would think it would be a bit more difficult to free it from the ring gear.
Sorry I can't give you more thoughts...I guess sometimes by asking a question about what I may be missing, it feels like I may be pointing you in the right direction... :-\
Good luck! :thumbup:
GT
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I scanned back through the thread and didn't see much about the engine build. Did you have it rebuilt or did you do it yourself? Have you actually spun the engine over by hand? It sounds like low cranking amps (weak battery, poor connections) or tight clearances somewhere. Hope it's a battery issue.
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Yea I tested the starter out of the motor and it works great and has tons of power. I had the engine rebuilt by somone, I can almost put my life on that it was done right, he has built motors for over 40 years and has built 6 motors for my pops with no problems, not saying he's not human and would never make a mistake ;D you never know! It doesn't really crank over, it is like it wants to for a second and the harmonic balancer turns over like 30 degrees and the starter bendix tries to pop back from the flywheel. I have spun the motor over by hand, feels pretty hard to turn but still turns over which I believe is normal. As far as connections it is a new wiring harness and ignition switch which all seems to be right.
Is there a way I can just test the battery for the amps its putting out or maybe at the solonoid wire that goes to the power on the starter? And if so how much should I have to be sufficient. The battery is new too and is a Caterpiller deep cycle one.
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Yea I tested the starter out of the motor and it works great and has tons of power. I had the engine rebuilt by somone, I can almost put my life on that it was done right, he has built motors for over 40 years and has built 6 motors for my pops with no problems, not saying he's not human and would never make a mistake ;D you never know! It doesn't really crank over, it is like it wants to for a second and the harmonic balancer turns over like 30 degrees and the starter bendix tries to pop back from the flywheel. I have spun the motor over by hand, feels pretty hard to turn but still turns over which I believe is normal. As far as connections it is a new wiring harness and ignition switch which all seems to be right.
Is there a way I can just test the battery for the amps its putting out or maybe at the solonoid wire that goes to the power on the starter? And if so how much should I have to be sufficient. The battery is new too and is a Caterpiller deep cycle one.
If you don't have a battery load checker, one simple and only slightly adequate test would be to put a volt meter on the battery terminals while cranking, if it drops below say 10V I would say it is still possible for the battery to be bad, unless the cables are getting stupid hot, then I would suspect it's just overloaded...The Kragen Auto Parts here in town will load test a battery for free, that may help...
Do any cables start to heat up or anything?
Seems odd.
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pull all the spark plugs, and see if it turns over easier!im willing to bet though battery....what size battery cables are you running?
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Okay took the battery in and had a load test...battery tested better than expected and is as good as new. As for the cables they are not getting hot and are 4 gauge. I will try to pull the plugs and see if that makes a difference tonight
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one more dumb question....i see you are running the same motor mounts as me....which starter mount did you use? because the flex plate will only work with one or the other mounts if your using the top mount w/out a top mount flex plate you will have binging issues, and vise versa if you are using the bottom mount and a top mount flex plate....ask me how i know!
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Called IMI and it is a bottom mount starter...but I think I am an idiot and wired it wrong using a aux solonoid can anyone show me a diagram on how they are supposed to be wired :banghead: I'm not the most knowledgable when it comes to anything thats not an import :screwy:
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Figured it out, I had a bad ground off the aux ford solenoid. Cranks over like a champ. Now I just need to charge the battery again to try to get some fuel up from the tanks. So maybe it;ll start tomorrow ::) I don't have the cooling line ran from the pump yet cuz I need a pressure releif valve, my exhaust hose and tips... still but should be okay to run for a minute or so right.
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So I have decided to take up a new career of continually chasing problems with this boat....I guess it could be worse. I finally got the starter working, then couldn;t get fuel come to find out pump is toast so I replaced that, now getting fuel to carb. Went to check for spark and no spark.
Here's what I have:
An HEI Ignition with an internal coil. The plugs, wires, wire harness and dizzy are all new. I think everything is new in the boat now that I just had to replace that damn fuel pump lol! So I have a new marine Ignition switch I got from dana marine. It is a 5 terminal switch with the following: "BAT" which I have the hot lead Red wire of the harness connected to. "GRD" which I have spliced into the gauge grounds(it did not have a ground wire in the new harness for the ignition switch for some reason). "ACC" which I have the purple ignition wires hooked up to which then continue to power the gauges down the line. Then there is the 5th terminal "MAG" which I have nothing hooked to.
Here's the problem:
When the key is in the "On" position but not full Start position I have 12 volts at the "BAT" lead, the "ACC" lead and the gauges are illuminated but when I go to full Hot start the voltage drops off and the gauges are no longer illuminated but the motor is turning over. I am also getting the same "no" voltage on the power at the dizzy when trying to start the motor but still a good 12v when just in the "On" position hense no spark at all!
WTF probably something simple just figuring out what it is :banghead:
Maybe that Trip by the mini mart on the way to buy the fuel pump to buy more beer was a bad choice :)
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I think you have the wrong ignition switch there brother....Mag and Ground are for a magnito ignition, the ignition on a mag is always on and it needs to be grounded to shut off..
You need a three, or four terminal switch with the following..
Batt.,Ign., Start, and the optional ACC.
I do not think you can make what you have work, could be wrong.
GT
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Thanks GT you've been a big help through this project! I will run down and get a switch that has a four wire with the ACC if they have one. Does it have to be a marine one or does it matter really. If it has to be marine I will definately have to order it in this town!
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Thanks GT you've been a big help through this project! I will run down and get a switch that has a four wire with the ACC if they have one. Does it have to be a marine one or does it matter really. If it has to be marine I will definately have to order it in this town!
Does not need to be "Marine" as far as I know...I guess I never thought about it...
Cole Hersey, Echlin (NAPA), Belden, Sierra, they are all descent switches....Pretty hard to screw that up IMHO...
GT
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GT your awesome, That worked now I am getting 12V under cranking at the ignition wire. Last night I still had no spark so I pulled that cheap ass dizzy I bought and put in a Motorcraft one I had lying around. Has an external coil so I had to go pick one of those up. Still no spark. Then I decided to wire up the MSD 6A box and then what do you know spark. Put the wires back on and
HOLY CRAP it fired up imediately with no hesitation. Even had a great idle for no tuning yet. Now time to organize the mess of wires I got going on in there. Just wanted to make sure it all would run correctly first. I will post some pics and possibly a video this weekend we took. Sorry guys I almost couldn't sleep I was trying to start this thing for a week now working on it every night till midnight.
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Here are some updated pics guys
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That's looking killer :thumbup:
Your getting close..
I have some (hopefully) constructive criticism for you though....
I would move the MSD box to higher ground...it will get wet there guaranteed, also, is your oil filter as close as it seems? I think a shorty oil filter will help you out there. (I am having brain fade right now, but I think a MOPAR filter will work)..
One more thing, lock out the vacuum advance plate and remove the pot and the hose, you will be glad you did, marine applications, especially a jet, don't make enough vacuum at WOT to bring in full timing, (a similar reason vacuum secondary carbs have issues).
That boat has come an unbelievably long way.... :thumbup: You should be proud as hell...
GT
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That's looking killer :thumbup:
Your getting close..
I have some (hopefully) constructive criticism for you though....
I would move the MSD box to higher ground...it will get wet there guaranteed, also, is your oil filter as close as it seems? I think a shorty oil filter will help you out there. (I am having brain fade right now, but I think a MOPAR filter will work)..
One more thing, lock out the vacuum advance plate and remove the pot and the hose, you will be glad you did, marine applications, especially a jet, don't make enough vacuum at WOT to bring in full timing, (a similar reason vacuum secondary carbs have issues).
That boat has come an unbelievably long way.... :thumbup: You should be proud as hell...
GT
was gonna say the same thing glenn! actually i believe chevy will work....as long as the o-ring contacts all the way around and it threads on it will work! one more thing to add to glenn's thoughts! carb that puppy!
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Thanks guys, I love criticism acctually it saves me time from screw ups I will cause later ^-^
I have a shorty that will clear the stringer and I will put that on, I need to realign the motor cuz the angle is a little off if you look at the front of the motor to the driveline on the pump. SO I will do both at the same time.
As for the MSD box could I just make a L bracket off the stringer out of some aluminum and mount it up a little more?
How do I lock out the vacuum advance plate. And do i just plug the vacuum on the carb. Should I be running a different carb or will it be okay to just change later I know you guys were saying earlier I should go to like an 850 or so. Just don't want to hurt the motor.
Thanks again, I do feel pretty good about this project, I never knew it would be so fulfilling as I have never tackled something that needed a full resto Can't wait to get her wet!
All I still need is my pop off valve, exhaust hose and exhaust tips which are on their way! Oh and the paint needs to be finished, i still have graphics getting laid on and the DCU2002 clear gonna try to lay it on thick ;D
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Pop off valve? How fast do you plan on going? You don't need a pop off valve unless you plan on going more than 100 mph!
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Thanks guys, I love criticism acctually it saves me time from screw ups I will cause later ^-^
I have a shorty that will clear the stringer and I will put that on, I need to realign the motor cuz the angle is a little off if you look at the front of the motor to the driveline on the pump. SO I will do both at the same time.
As for the MSD box could I just make a L bracket off the stringer out of some aluminum and mount it up a little more?
How do I lock out the vacuum advance plate. And do i just plug the vacuum on the carb. Should I be running a different carb or will it be okay to just change later I know you guys were saying earlier I should go to like an 850 or so. Just don't want to hurt the motor.
Thanks again, I do feel pretty good about this project, I never knew it would be so fulfilling as I have never tackled something that needed a full resto Can't wait to get her wet!
All I still need is my pop off valve, exhaust hose and exhaust tips which are on their way! Oh and the paint needs to be finished, i still have graphics getting laid on and the DCU2002 clear gonna try to lay it on thick ;D
Hey,
How dense am I??? I just noticed your in Grants Pass???? Do me a favor, kick Deputy Sheriff Larry A. in the junk for me.... :thumbup:
To lock out the Vac adv typically all you need is a machine screw and a nut to lock it down to the housing, I do know on a Delco, all you need is a piece of coat hanger and a 10/32 screw to lock it down...Dunno about a Motorcraft/Autolite deal...
Pop off, or pressure relief ?(about a $1200 difference LOL).. :thumbup:
GT
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That's looking killer :thumbup:
Your getting close..
I have some (hopefully) constructive criticism for you though....
I would move the MSD box to higher ground...it will get wet there guaranteed, also, is your oil filter as close as it seems? I think a shorty oil filter will help you out there. (I am having brain fade right now, but I think a MOPAR filter will work)..
One more thing, lock out the vacuum advance plate and remove the pot and the hose, you will be glad you did, marine applications, especially a jet, don't make enough vacuum at WOT to bring in full timing, (a similar reason vacuum secondary carbs have issues).
That boat has come an unbelievably long way.... :thumbup: You should be proud as hell...
GT
all solid advise :thumbup:
ditch the fram and get the napa 1068 same as a wix
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Sorry guys I meant pressure releif valve lol Like 75bucks or so I think. :screwy: I feel like I'm back in school and I learn something everyday ^-^
So whats the sheriffs last name I'm sure I probably know him, it's such a small town!
I will take care of that vacuum advance GT thanks for the tips!
Oh and I still need seats so if anyone sees some used ones around let me know. I think this project has raped me financially :sly:
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Sorry guys I meant pressure releif valve lol Like 75bucks or so I think. :screwy: I feel like I'm back in school and I learn something everyday ^-^
So whats the sheriffs last name I'm sure I probably know him, it's such a small town!
I will take care of that vacuum advance GT thanks for the tips!
Oh and I still need seats so if anyone sees some used ones around let me know. I think this project has raped me financially :sly:
PM sent!
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Sorry guys I meant pressure releif valve lol Like 75bucks or so I think. :screwy: I feel like I'm back in school and I learn something everyday ^-^
So whats the sheriffs last name I'm sure I probably know him, it's such a small town!
I will take care of that vacuum advance GT thanks for the tips!
Oh and I still need seats so if anyone sees some used ones around let me know. I think this project has raped me financially :sly:
They all do!
But I gotta say! Now I want a White Motor! THAT is killer lookin' :thumbup: :thumbup:
Gonna steal that idea! Hope you don't mind.
ray
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my dad was living in grants pass for a minute as well....his on again off again gf still lives there! i always wanted to check it out, but never made it that far north....
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They all do!
But I gotta say! Now I want a White Motor! THAT is killer lookin' :thumbup: :thumbup:
Gonna steal that idea! Hope you don't mind.
ray
Your motor needs to be titty pink... :screwy:
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Your motor needs to be titty pink... :screwy:
LOL :D :thumbup:
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Your motor needs to be titty pink... :screwy:
Nah I think you meant UDDER pink ;D ;D ;D
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Yea I think the white looks pretty clean for now we will see how long it lasts. Go for it white would look good, but damn pink would be down right hilarious!
Grants Pass is nice, it's small but have alot of outdoors stuff including the river, too bad it's not fiberglass friendly lol
Some day if you all ever had a get together it would be nice to take the boat down, GF has alot of family in San Diego/Santee area.
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Yea I think the white looks pretty clean for now we will see how long it lasts. Go for it white would look good, but damn pink would be down right hilarious!
Grants Pass is nice, it's small but have alot of outdoors stuff including the river, too bad it's not fiberglass friendly lol
Some day if you all ever had a get together it would be nice to take the boat down, GF has alot of family in San Diego/Santee area.
OK, I'm in! (Thanks Glenn :thumbup: always a help.......... :sly:)
Ray
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Ray -- do you ever, even once, hear an idea and say to yourself, "Nope I ain't gonna do it. It just is not a good idea."? I bet your Mom would tell me you ran before you walked huh?
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where do you get the yellow trim rings around your gauges? boat looks great by the way i cant wait to get to the stage you are at :thumbup:
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where do you get the yellow trim rings around your gauges? boat looks great by the way i cant wait to get to the stage you are at :thumbup:
Here you go Gord.
http://www.rexmar.com/page83.html (http://www.rexmar.com/page83.html)
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Ray -- do you ever, even once, hear an idea and say to yourself, "Nope I ain't gonna do it. It just is not a good idea."? I bet your Mom would tell me you ran before you walked huh?
LMAO! Yeah, I do! I was told not to tunnel ram Moo? Does that count?
Actually, I mostly hear those BAD ideas at work. You guys are all full of good ideas!
I dun wanna get into what my Mom might tell you.......................... :screwy:
Ray
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Can someone tell me if this will work as a pressure releif bob @ dana said it will and it is adjustable for down to 12-15psi
http://www.danamarineproducts.com/GroupCatProducts.cfm?CatId=289&group_id=44&page=1&CFID=774214&CFTOKEN=57d3082-f8adf749-c49e-4955-9b50-3dfefd135fa1
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Can someone tell me if this will work as a pressure releif bob @ dana said it will and it is adjustable for down to 12-15psi
http://www.danamarineproducts.com/GroupCatProducts.cfm?CatId=289&group_id=44&page=1&CFID=774214&CFTOKEN=57d3082-f8adf749-c49e-4955-9b50-3dfefd135fa1
Sure it will (insert sarcasm here) Look at the thread from Nordic 454 on this very subject. Personally, these are a waste of time and money. But if you're hellbent on using one, DON'T USE THAT STYLE.
Use a Watts #5300A
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Okay I'll scratch that. Can someone tell me where I can find one of what I need with a 1/2"NPT and where I can plump the excess through a bilge dump
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Okay I'll scratch that. Can someone tell me where I can find one of what I need with a 1/2"NPT and where I can plump the excess through a bilge dump
Ferguson
Medford
1130 Helicopter Way
Medford, OR 97502-8468
Phone : 541-773-4323
If it were me, I'd dump it on the driver's side at the rear, you can keep an eye on it this way.
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Wow you found all the deatils! Thanks so much, I have to head over there this weekend anyways so I will pick one up. I think I will dump it out one of the 2 bilge holes I have off the top of the transom, I'm sure one was maybe for a cable in a previous life but my 12JC has a hole through it already for the steering cable
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Make sure you call them first, I know most Ferguson locations are M-F only. Good luck.
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Make sure you call them first, I know most Ferguson locations are M-F only. Good luck.
X2, also most locations are wholesale only...Have a bogus contractors license number ready... :thumbup:
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X2, also most locations are wholesale only...Have a bogus contractors license number ready... :thumbup:
Every Ferguson I've been to will sell to anyone with the $. No bogus license needed.
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Sweet my pops has his Contractors License still, I think the ol man keeps renewing just for the discounts he gets places lol.
Thanks for the info guys ;D
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Ordered the Watts 5300A from Ferguson no problems, should be in on Monday ^-^ Thanks
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I put a volt meter on the wire comin off the alternator and there is only like half a volt coming off of it. I have one large wire coming off the alternator to the isolator and the isolator going to each battery. But on my wire harness which is pre wired for a 460 has an ignition hot wire coming out of the loom right next to the main power wire coming off the alternator. Is that an excite wire that should be hooked up the alternator as well?
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Avenger Daycruiser-
Check your PMs
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I put a volt meter on the wire comin off the alternator and there is only like half a volt coming off of it. I have one large wire coming off the alternator to the isolator and the isolator going to each battery. But on my wire harness which is pre wired for a 460 has an ignition hot wire coming out of the loom right next to the main power wire coming off the alternator. Is that an excite wire that should be hooked up the alternator as well?
Depends on what Alternator , lots of these boats have been changed over to "one wire" self excite types and no lonnger need the ig circuit , The Older Delcos , the Motorrolas and the Prestolites use an igition excite wire . I would think that the isolator should allow a full 12 volts thru from each battery , thus you should see 12v +or- at the large B+ terminal Check your pms for a number if you need help Tom
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Hey man, I found you a very nice interior for your boat, less than 1 season on it, white with silver blue stripes and piping, if you want it cool, if not, let me know so I can sell it to someone else. Good luck with your boat, you're going to need it.
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Well project is on hold for this month, I had an injector go out in my duramax. Damn bowtie, the boat can pull my truck for now lol! I thought about replacing the rest of them as I have already replaced the #1 and now the #4 is going out the door....But the price is insane for these damn things!!!
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just went there with my duramax give me a call if you need any pointers
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Whats that interior look like Skipper? Got a bud at work I made buy a boat and needs one. Just happens to be Blue over Pearl, so might werk!
Ray
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Just got some seats and a rear bench, debating if I want to leave it a 2 seater ;D
As for the duramax Nordie, this is the second injector I have replaced, the remaining 6 have great flow still but for how long? :banghead:
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Wow, Do they recline also? Looks REALLY comfy! :thumbup:
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No I wish they did, I wanted to mount a flatscreen on the bow and a 12volt popcorn maker ;D
They are big but damn are they comfy and roomy and they were cheap. I think I'm gonna put the rear bench seat in too
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where did you get them ?
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great looking seats no fat chicks for passingers ;D >:D
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I got them from craigslist from an interior shop in cali when they upgraded the interior on the boat. No Fat Chicks!!
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Getting ready to get her wet sometime this week..... but need to make sure everything is checked over and I had a few questions:
I had the pump gone through and checked out but was wondering besides the greasert on the inside of the transom next to the inspection plate is ther any other point that need lubrication. Like the two nipples on the outside bowl?
I also got the pressure releif valve hooked up but to make sure it opens at the right pressure should I have a pressure guage on that line?
Also is it okay to run without a driveline cover just for a test run until I get one Everything is far out of the way of the driveline
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If there's 1/4" pipe plugs in the bowl, yeah, you need to fill it with 90 weight. If there's zerks in there, then it takes grease. Someone else should recommend what kind of grease if it's set up with zerk fittings. I tend to use expensive crap.... :screwy:
A pressure guage would be fine, for dialing in exactly what pressure you're looking for, but honestly, it'll never popoff anyway unless theres another serious issue that will rear it's ugly head much sooner than the valve actually doing what it's supposed to, I would think. I know, I run one as well.........paranoid is paranoid........
In other words, a solution to a non problem, in most cases.
Ray
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Thanks IR I got that all taken care of.
I still need to fix the alignment of the motor cuz my driveline is just barely off.
And I need to get the alternator working. I was supposed to take pics and get the numbers off the alternator for Tom (sorry Tom)but my camera charger is broken and there are absolutely no numbers on the alternator :screwy:
But I know it is a 1wire alternator and I am running an aux solenoid. The ones that have two large side posts and the small S & I terminals. The Alt wire that comes off the front of the main terminal block I have hooked up to the Alt, but from there I have no idea. There is no wire coming off the back of terminal block so not sure where to go from there. I know this is hard without pics!
Also just went to hook up my foot pedal and cable but found I have a push and my carb and motor are set up for a pull. Any solution to this besides getting a pull foot pedal?
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Also just went to hook up my foot pedal and cable but found I have a push and my carb and motor are set up for a pull. Any solution to this besides getting a pull foot pedal?
Turn your carb 180* change the accellorator pumps front to rear and you're golden.
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Wow Im an idiot never thought of that. Thanks! Do you think I would have to make a custom throttle bracket since the existing one is on the other side
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Wow Im an idiot never thought of that. Thanks! Do you think I would have to make a custom throttle bracket since the existing one is on the other side
just get one from Summit or Jegs, it goes wherever you bolt it.
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Okay I'll check that out. I appreciate it now if it would just stop raining!
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Well it was a nice day yesterday so I took it on its first run. All was well when I put it in the water till I realized I had water gushing in from the pump. Ooops forgot to tighten the inspection plate enough. After that I putted around the no wake area and checked for leaks. All was good so we headed out....the boat ran good the first ten minutes. Then I noticed oil bubbling out between the heads and the intake manifold and from the inside of the rear bell housing. Didn't loose much but it was definately leaking. My guess is that it was from too much crank case pressure becuse it was bubbling out with air pressure. Should I maybe put a PCV on the valve covers, Right now I just have a breather on one side and that leaks oil too through the vent! Also there was a faint knocking sound so I decided to head back in and take her back home and go through everything.
Any ideas or input on the oil or knocking situation here is a video of the first trip out. I could barely here the knocking over the end until the way back in.
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http://s597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/gartonadam/?action=view¤t=IMAG0547.flv
Okay I got the lame video just disregard Teddy he was easily excitable ;D and a little a-d-d with the camera
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I think I got the oil problem fixed by adding two breathers with pcv valves on them. One I used to replace the oil cap since it didn't have a brether hole on that valve cover. I then ran the hoses off the pcv's to a T and then to the carb. Do you guys think that'll be okay or is that overkill.
I also had a question on the vacuum advance, I know you all said I would not create enough to open the secondaries so I capped off the advance hose at the distributer but how do I go about screwing down the advance in the dizzy?
Last on the driveline I realized I am not dead on vertical adjustment betwen the pump and motor but it is fine horizontal how critical is that I am aprox 5 degrees down on the motor :sly:
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well you got the first test down...seems like alot of people are having blow by issues....seems to be a mystery as well...was always told it could be the rings or the valves, but i could be wrong....boat sounded fine, and appeared to be running fine...in the film you seemed to be asking about the oil psi! how much did it drop? what was it running at? we need lots of details
last question what were you guys dipping?
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well you got the first test down...seems like alot of people are having blow by issues....seems to be a mystery as well...was always told it could be the rings or the valves, but i could be wrong....boat sounded fine, and appeared to be running fine...in the film you seemed to be asking about the oil psi! how much did it drop? what was it running at? we need lots of details
last question what were you guys dipping?
You're right! It does seem like a LOT of excess crankcase pressure issues lately. Food for thought...... :screwy:
Ray
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Well the motor was rebuilt by a machine shop here in town, with new rings seals and gaskets. And I ran some lucas additive for breakin and am gonna try some redline cam break in as well. The oil pressure was at 70 when we started the motor which I think was high but maybe due to the lucas additive and being cold. And the pressure dropped down to a low of 49 at 3200-3500rpm is that low? How should I of broken in the motor do you think? As for dippin.....oregon what can i say haha
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and that is 2 of 2 boats with crankcase pressure issues with lucas additive as well....hows that for food for thought...if im not mistaken that stuff is pretty thick...my oil psi is lower then that...what kind of oil are you running....brand and weight...you should have been running a cam break in oil if the cam was new!
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What does your pressure run at around that rpm range? I was running Castrol 10-30 is what I was told was in there. I was told to run the lucas and yes the cam is a stage 2 cam. Shit I hope I didn't flatten it. I was leter told that I should of ran that Redline Breakin stuff.
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yeah your supposed to run a break in lube for the cam, and then a quick oil change! i would go with the valvoline VR1 oil it's better for flat tappet cams...i would definately look into the flat cam dealio...there is ways to break in a cam properly...my oil psi when cold is between 70-75 and at that rpm around 40-55 i cant exactly remember
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Well I guess for now I will do an oil change and use the VR1 oil with the Redline cam break in. WHat weight should I use and what RPM range should I keep it at? I hope its not too late and all F'd up! Then should I do another oil change right after the next run. I ran it that day for 2 runs only about 4-5 min each so maybe I'll be okay
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i run 20-50....as far as cam break in should have went you should run it with the additive for 20 mins at 2500 rpm...then the way everyone breaks their cams in is different! but the additive is pretty important...im hoping someone else will jump in to further explain...these flat tappet cams are a bitch, and you can ruin one pretty quickly...there's a couple of really good ford guys over here! if none of them jump in pm either ralph brunt or lakesonly
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yeah your supposed to run a break in lube for the cam, and then a quick oil change! i would go with the valvoline VR1 oil it's better for flat tappet cams...i would definately look into the flat cam dealio...there is ways to break in a cam properly...my oil psi when cold is between 70-75 and at that rpm around 40-55 i cant exactly remember
Close to mine, but yours is an older engine. I run a lil bit different oil, but Moo holds 85-90 until warmed up then about 65-70 after that. Pickle tends to start at 70, and holds about 50-55 after running a bit. I truly doubt these crankcase pressure issues are oil pressure related, else the pressures would be way down and pumping the pressure into the crankcase from these high volume pumps we all seem to feel the need to run.
Blowby seems to be the logical answer. BUT could be a head gasket issue, or an exhaust valve issue as well. I think Terry recently brought up some concerns I had a while back about hardened exhaust seats on these old boat engines and unleaded fuel. Terry has a way of round-a-bout making his point.......
Ray
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Okay I'll run some 20-50 in it with the redline and just do an oil change and hope it works. I think the pcvs will help with the crankcase pressure. Thanks Nordie and Ray I wish I was more savvy on this big block stuff.
As for the driveline how do I chack to see what angle I am at does anyone have a diagram or a pic?
Oh and Nordie as for the truck I had it chcked out and came back with 2 more injectors not throwing codes but poor flow so gotta save up and keep chasing injectors I guess
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So this is the second time I have removed the intake manifold and valve covers and put new gaskets on it thinking that was the problem with the oil leaking. But I guess there is still to much pressure so the oil is finding the weakest spot. What are my next steps this is the third time I have taken out the boat with trying something different. I'm surprised a sheriff just hasn't followed the oil trail by now ;D
Here is a pic of how the breathers are set up. My guess is everyone is right and its crank case pressure, due to the rings not seating. :banghead:
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the oil on the intake is from what ??? oil leak or blow by? is there not a vacume port on the base plate of your carb? do the valve covers have baffles? the knock? what is it?
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I guess I should of said I fixed the knock sorry Ralph, it just was a lifter nicking a valve cover so I got these taller valve covers and that was it. The oil is from oil spraying and bubbling out around the intake manifold, v/c's and the grommets on the breathers. The breathers are pcv valves.
As for the vacuum port I was told to run it to the small one angled up on the side of the carb which is where I have it now. Should I have attached it to the larger vacuum port at the base of the carb.
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try the vacume port at the base plate, how much oil do you have in the pan? its going to take a lot of pressure to blow out an intake/valve cover gasket ???
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I tried the larger port and same thing happened. I think the capacity is 6 quarts and i lost about half a quart out there
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have you ran a compression test?
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No I haven't yet, I guess that should be my next step tonight and should tell me if I get blow by right?....they should be within 10% or 10 psi I'm not sure which. Also what is a leakdown test some people have been telling me I need to do that.
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leakdown will tell the tale a little more that is for sure! i was told a good way to tell if you got a low cylinder a good way of determining between a leaky valve, and piston rings would be the fact that if you put some oil in the cylinder and your compression comes up it could be a ring! if it stays roughly the same it could be a valve! i still cant really understand how you are leaking oil around the where the intake and head mesh together....or did you manage to fix that?
i believe the more details you can give us the better off you are! leakdown and compression test should be on the list of things to do!
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Compression test numbers are : 1-132 2-123 3-116 4-120 5-123 6-122 7-131 8-113
Not sure if that is in the realm of things. It is still leaking oil around the intake and the valve covers and the pcv valves and somewhere in the bellhousing behind the motor. I have retorqued everything and the second set of gaskets on the intake and
valve covers. Thanks Nordie
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leaky rear main?
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It's hard to see in there but it could be the rear main seal its dripping down the bell housing
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leak down test will tell you about the blow bye,
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I looked at the way I had the vacuum lines hooked up last night and realized that the small port on the carb (indicated in the red circe) creates no vacuum at all and even when I switched to the large port (indicated in the blue circe) it created no vacuum because it was plugged with something. So after fixing it and cleaning the silicone out of it I have vacuum now. I removed the vacuum hose off the distributer and just capped it. Also I was curious if I should not be running 2 pcv valves on each valve cover like I have, maybe one breather on one side.
I will still run a leak down test as soon as I can get a hold of my friend who has one.
Could this of been my problem or is this still abnormal crankcase pressure. And I am concerned maybe all my gaskets are toast from the pressure, what do you guys think?
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the pressure has to escape from somewhere!!!!
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Don't mean to dig up an old thread, but did you ever figure out what model hull this is?