SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: JBASHAM on April 05, 2014, 09:36:07 PM
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Well I finally decided to get this project rolling... So long story short- I bought the boat late last summer, It had been sitting for about 10 yrs. Its a 18 ft 454 w/ a berk JG. Initially got it fired up and sounded pretty healthy. Since then been on the back-burner.
Fast forward to today! Decided I better get going if I plan to get this thing wet this summer. Plan of attack- yank motor, check lower end, headjob, reseal longblock, paint job, new intake, then on to interior, and cosmetics. Well...this is what happened.
Looks like the motor was rebuilt at some point, pretty clean. #1&2 rods had been replaced so I pulled those caps first. Well some dipshits repair job on the crank just ain't gonna work for me, so I tore the whole thing down and ill see what the machine shop has to say on Monday.
Also stArted stripping the interior. Any ideas on cleaning up the floor? Gonna hit it with the pressure washer tomorrow n see how it looks. Pretty
sure i dont want carpet, so i need ideas. Also i gotta figure out a way to get all the glue off the tanks
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I have a 82 bahner as we'll doing the same thing you are doing right now but in the middle of paint now
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Well I'm in the middle of a 79 kachina project and we are going to flow coat the inside of ours good stuff
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Got one of the tanks cleaned up yesterday probably gonna polish them because they won't be covered in carpet this time.
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So it looks like originally the floors had a very thin coat of resin applied. I can feel the texture of the glass mat and its exposed in a few spots. Is this normal?
I'm thinking of just cleaning it up a little more and putting a layer of resin over it...
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So it looks like originally the floors had a very thin coat of resin applied. I can feel the texture of the glass mat and its exposed in a few spots. Is this normal?
I'm thinking of just cleaning it up a little more and putting a layer of resin over it...
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My bahner and others have the same effect. Almost like it was laid up dry in the last layer. Its normal.
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My bahner and others have the same effect. Almost like it was laid up dry in the last layer. Its normal.
Yea but I plan on flow coating or painting it, so I think I should put a layer of resin to smooth it first??
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Yea but I plan on flow coating or painting it, so I think I should put a layer of resin to smooth it first??
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I would put a layer of resin on it for sure to smooth it out.
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seems like an aweful lot of resin. my guess would be to add a fairing compound to the resin that will help fill in the gaps without adding a gallon of weight to the floor, but DOESNT have a lot of strength to it so that its easy to sand to get a smooth finish.
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There's a wax like liquid you can mix in the resin. It's called "hot coat" and that's what guys use when laying the final coat of resin when building surfboards. The hotcoat resin lays down way smoother, stays where it's suppose to better than normal resin, and sands a lot better than normal resin too.
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Cool guys, thanks for the advice.
A co-worker told me he's done resin before and that it wont hold up, he said it will start cracking after a few years if left uncovered. Anyone have experience with that happening?
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Cool guys, thanks for the advice.
A co-worker told me he's done resin before and that it wont hold up, he said it will start cracking after a few years if left uncovered. Anyone have experience with that happening?
If you lay one layer of fiberglass cloth to help with flex and sand really well before starting I think it would be fine. I worked for a surfboard glass shop for 6 years as the sander so I've been around the stuff for quite some time. If you just use resin then it could possibly crack over time. Don't use the crappy resin from Homedepot, I can tell you that for sure.
Personally I would call Martinez Marine and see what they recommend. Maybe an epoxy would be better for this due to the flex of the boat. They will steer you in the best direction.
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It is all in the preparation! If the preparation is not done properly, the flexing of the hull will cause the new resin coat to release from the original glass.
Resin alone is brittle compared to a 50/50 resin / fiber matrix. Thicker cross-sections of resin will be more brittle than the original glass and will tend to crack. Adding a fairing compound like microspheres is a good idea. it would keep the resin from running, help fill in the voids, and make sanding easier. Fairing compounds do not add any real structure to the resin that you are applying. Basically, you are making your own Bondo.
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also picking the right resin involves knowing what you're applying it to, and then what you're going to apply over the top of it. using an epoxy and then using a poly "flow coat" wont stick.
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If you lay one layer of fiberglass cloth to help with flex and sand really well before starting I think it would be fine. I worked for a surfboard glass shop for 6 years as the sander so I've been around the stuff for quite some time. If you just use resin then it could possibly crack over time. Don't use the crappy resin from Homedepot, I can tell you that for sure.
Personally I would call Martinez Marine and see what they recommend. Maybe an epoxy would be better for this due to the flex of the boat. They will steer you in the best direction.
Exactly what I was thinking. Riptide, what weight cloth do you use on surfboards?
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also picking the right resin involves knowing what you're applying it to, and then what you're going to apply over the top of it. using an epoxy and then using a poly "flow coat" wont stick.
Better reaction time than me, just as I was about to post that.
Epoxy is very tough and flexible, but it is not compatible with polyester resin. Some epoxy is so strong that you will get a very good mechanical bond to the original glass, but a chemical bond is not possible between polyester and epoxy.
If you put down a lamination using vinylester resin first, further laminations with epoxy can follow. This will promote a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond between the polyester and vinylester laminations and between the epoxy and the vinylester laminations. Basically, the vinylester resin lamination acts like a primer between the epoxy and the polyester resin systems. The way it was explained to me by the chemists who formulate the resins is, one side of the vinylester resin molecule looks like a polyester resin molecule and the other side looks like an epoxy resin molecule, allowing a molecular bond to occur.
Word of caution: there are so many epoxies available now, make sure that the one you choose is compatible with your intended repair. It is possible the whole repair could just release from the original glass.
I think I would stick with the polyester resin system as that is most likely what your original glass was laminated with. To promote a complete cure of any polyester resin or polyester gel coat you apply, you can add styrene wax to your resin or gel coat. Here is a quote from http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins)
Get a Complete Cure
# 71 Styrene Wax is a 5% solution of paraffin dissolved in styrene that may be added to non waxed polyester resins and gel coats to prevent the prolonged tackiness associated with thin sections of polyesters. If the resin contains paraffins, the wax will rise to the surface and protect the curing resin from the inhibiting action of the air. However, if the resin is allowed to fully cure, the paraffins on the surface will prevent adhesion of further coats of resin and must be sanded off prior to additional applications. We recommend adding #71 at 5% for thin coatings. Use with #1040 Hi-Gloss Additive when performing repairs below the water line.
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I have a gallon of 3M polyester resin. I planned on just brushing it on, but now im not so sure... Only reason I wanted to put it down is because the mat on the floors is "bare" so to say... I can feel the fiber in some spots and i dont want it getting damaged. Im half tempted to just use some garage floor paint instead. lol
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Better reaction time than me, just as I was about to post that.
Epoxy is very tough and flexible, but it is not compatible with polyester resin. Some epoxy is so strong that you will get a very good mechanical bond to the original glass, but a chemical bond is not possible between polyester and epoxy.
If you put down a lamination using vinylester resin first, further laminations with epoxy can follow. This will promote a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond between the polyester and vinylester laminations and between the epoxy and the vinylester laminations. Basically, the vinylester resin lamination acts like a primer between the epoxy and the polyester resin systems. The way it was explained to me by the chemists who formulate the resins is, one side of the vinylester resin molecule looks like a polyester resin molecule and the other side looks like an epoxy resin molecule, allowing a molecular bond to occur.
Word of caution: there are so many epoxies available now, make sure that the one you choose is compatible with your intended repair. It is possible the whole repair could just release from the original glass.
I think I would stick with the polyester resin system as that is most likely what your original glass was laminated with. To promote a complete cure of any polyester resin or polyester gel coat you apply, you can add styrene wax to your resin or gel coat. Here is a quote from http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins (http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins)
Get a Complete Cure
# 71 Styrene Wax is a 5% solution of paraffin dissolved in styrene that may be added to non waxed polyester resins and gel coats to prevent the prolonged tackiness associated with thin sections of polyesters. If the resin contains paraffins, the wax will rise to the surface and protect the curing resin from the inhibiting action of the air. However, if the resin is allowed to fully cure, the paraffins on the surface will prevent adhesion of further coats of resin and must be sanded off prior to additional applications. We recommend adding #71 at 5% for thin coatings. Use with #1040 Hi-Gloss Additive when performing repairs below the water line.
That's what I would do.. Sand it super good with 60 grit, make sure the whole bottom is super clean, then brush a nice thin layer of hotcoat resin ( styrene/polyester resin) across the bottom, and sand it smooth.
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I have a gallon of 3M polyester resin. I planned on just brushing it on, but now im not so sure... Only reason I wanted to put it down is because the mat on the floors is "bare" so to say... I can feel the fiber in some spots and i dont want it getting damaged. Im half tempted to just use some garage floor paint instead. lol
If the resin has deteriorated away from the fibers, you will need to grind it all back into the good glass and build it up again. Moisture will wick down the exposed fibers and deteriorate the resin, breaking the bond between the resin and fibers. There will also be a lot of contamination that will prevent good adhesion.
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Made a little headway on the motor plate fab, got my templates done.
Did a bit of painting, gotta re-assemble the pump tomorrow and hopefully get the intake out and ready for reseal.
Once the pumps all back in the boat ill be able to mock up the motor and make final adjustments to my templates then transfer them to aluminum.
Fun stuff!!
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Finally got the intake ready to reset. Check, double check, triple check!
Think I'm being too anal?! Lol
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Finally got the intake ready to reset. Check, double check, triple check!
Think I'm being too anal?! Lol
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is that intake cut for a shoe? What angle are you planing on setting it in at?
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is that intake cut for a shoe? What angle are you planing on setting it in at?
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No its not cut for a shoe. I know nows the time to do it but the money tree is exhausted from everything else im doing, so maybe in the future.
Ive heard everything from 3.7* to 5* on the intake so Im gonna stick with the factory setting of 4*, unless you have any advice??
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Got it in! Ended up right about 4.1*. What a messy bitch it was too! Good thing I had my hot helper to give me a hand.
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Got the pump buttoned up today, also finished smoothing out the bottom where I covered the bolts and blended the entry.
Progress!
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Made a little headway on the rail kit fab, got the rails and backing plates cut and drilled. Also cut the material up for the feet.
Started mocking it up this evening, ill drill the stringers and get them bolted down in the morning.
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More progress this weekend.
Got the rails mounted up and my long block assembled. Just a lil 461 Chevy, oval port heads, got a victor jr on the way.
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Started mockup for the motor plates last night, and roughed the front one into shape today.
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Finally! Rail kit is in and done. Well maybe not finish sanded and polished, but I can put a motor in now!
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Today we wrapped my motor up. Plan is to paint the bilge in the morning and hopefully have the motor sitting in it by noon!
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Long long weekend, but very successful! Got the bilge and floors painted and the motor is in.
It's been a mad dash. Trying to have this thing in the water in 2 weeks!
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Had to get my front plate on the mill to accommodate a manual fuel pump & my mini alt I picked up.
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Wired up a new engine harness, and finished all the wiring. These were the in-progress pics, have to get the final pics later.
Played with some stripper!
No not that kind, lol. It worked wonders on my nasty glued up tanks.
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What did you use to paint the floor and stringers looks good
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What did you use to paint the floor and stringers looks good
Thanks a lot! It's zolatone, single stage trunk paint. I hate carpet, so I went this route instead.
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Here's a few pics of the fuel system. Didn't come out exactly how I wanted, but it's functional.
This off season I plan on doing all the fuel and water lines with that black Earls stuff and AN fittings.
Also you can see I relocated the term block and made a new engine harness. Came out pretty good!
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All the new cables in and operating- Check✔
I ended up using my old flex plate cover for now, and it doesn't look half bad. I had to cut the driveline cover a bit because of the extra 3/8" motor plate.
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Been a rough couple weeks, but I did it!
She floats and....... SHE RUNS!!!
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The maiden voyage was flawless!
The very next day we packed up and headed north to Lake Topaz. Spent a week up there prob burned about 60+ gallons of fuel and not a single issue.
Just wish I would've brought a jet kit...
She was fat! 6000ft up there compared to 2300ft where we live.
We still managed to pull 67 mph on the GPS at about 4800ish, against the wind and the chop! Lol. Hoping for 70s at my lower elevation lake.
As soon as I figure out how to post a video ill put up the first wet test.
Thanks everyone on SCJB for all the help and support, I've learned a ton in the last year and couldn't have done it without y'all. 🚤💨💨🍻
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Boat looks great. Good work.
THE BEAV
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right on, man!!
Great looking Bahner
Those pictures of Isabella bring back some serious childhood memories... Still can't believe how low that damn place is.
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Thanks guys!!
Yep- like most lakes in socal, it is really low. But as low as it is, its still a fairly large lake- we just stay on the west side around main dam and piss off all the fishermen! LOL
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Thanks guys!!
Yep- like most lakes in socal, it is really low. But as low as it is, its still a fairly large lake- we just stay on the west side around main dam and piss off all the fishermen! LOL
hahaha all those clowns trying to catch catfish off engineer point?
Is the old flume still sticking out of the water over there by the main dam?
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No just a bunch of fishing boats. They typically stay on the east side where all the trees are sticking out over by reds and paradise but I guess it was too packed over there. Nothing like a BBC with headers to scare all the fish!! Lol
Yea that deal is still out of the water over there. What is it? The old aqueduct is showing at aux dam too
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Little update.
Got new seats!
Waiting on the upholstery shop to finish up, then get them mounted and I'll be back to the water.
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Dude send me that snap on hammer I will warrantee it for you pm me I will send you my address what color do you want red green or orange
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Nice looking f100 project
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