I have a 82 bahner as we'll doing the same thing you are doing right now but in the middle of paint now


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

Got one of the tanks cleaned up yesterday probably gonna polish them because they won't be covered in carpet this time.


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats

So it looks like originally the floors had a very thin coat of resin applied. I can feel the texture of the glass mat and its exposed in a few spots.  Is this normal?

I'm thinking of just cleaning it up a little more and putting a layer of resin over it...


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats

My bahner and others have the same effect. Almost like it was laid up dry in the last layer. Its normal.

Yea but I plan on flow coating or painting it, so I think I should put a layer of resin to smooth it first??


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats

I would put a layer of resin on it for sure to smooth it out.


Sent from my iPad using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

There's a wax like liquid you can mix in the resin. It's called "hot coat" and that's what guys use when laying the final coat of resin when building surfboards. The hotcoat resin lays down way smoother, stays where it's suppose to better than normal resin, and sands a lot better than normal resin too.


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

Cool guys, thanks for the advice.

A co-worker told me he's done resin before and that it wont hold up, he said it will start cracking after a few years if left uncovered. Anyone have experience with that happening?

If you lay one layer of fiberglass cloth to help with flex and sand really well before starting I think it would be fine. I worked for a surfboard glass shop for 6 years as the sander so I've been around the stuff for quite some time.  If you just use resin then it could possibly crack over time.  Don't use the crappy resin from Homedepot, I can tell you that for sure.

Personally I would call Martinez Marine and see what they recommend. Maybe an epoxy would be better for this due to the flex of the boat. They will steer you in the best direction.

also picking the right resin involves knowing what you're applying it to, and then what you're going to apply over the top of it.  using an epoxy and then using a poly "flow coat" wont stick. 

also picking the right resin involves knowing what you're applying it to, and then what you're going to apply over the top of it.  using an epoxy and then using a poly "flow coat" wont stick.

Better reaction time than me, just as I was about to post that.

Epoxy is very tough and flexible, but it is not compatible with polyester resin.  Some epoxy is so strong that you will get a very good mechanical bond to the original glass, but a chemical bond is not possible between polyester and epoxy.

If you put down a lamination using vinylester resin first, further laminations with epoxy can follow.  This will promote a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond between the polyester and vinylester laminations and between the epoxy and the vinylester laminations.  Basically, the vinylester resin lamination acts like a primer between the epoxy and the polyester resin systems.  The way it was explained to me by the chemists who formulate the resins is, one side of the vinylester resin molecule looks like a polyester resin molecule and the other side looks like an epoxy resin molecule, allowing a molecular bond to occur.

Word of caution:  there are so many epoxies available now, make sure that the one you choose is compatible with your intended repair.  It is possible the whole repair could just release from the original glass.

I think I would stick with the polyester resin system as that is most likely what your original glass was laminated with.  To promote a complete cure of any polyester resin or polyester gel coat you apply, you can add styrene wax to your resin or gel coat.  Here is a quote from http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins

Get a Complete Cure
# 71 Styrene Wax is a 5% solution of paraffin dissolved in styrene that may be added to non waxed polyester resins and gel coats to prevent the prolonged tackiness associated with thin sections of polyesters. If the resin contains paraffins, the wax will rise to the surface and protect the curing resin from the inhibiting action of the air. However, if the resin is allowed to fully cure, the paraffins on the surface will prevent adhesion of further coats of resin and must be sanded off prior to additional applications. We recommend adding #71 at 5% for thin coatings. Use with #1040 Hi-Gloss Additive when performing repairs below the water line.

Better reaction time than me, just as I was about to post that.

Epoxy is very tough and flexible, but it is not compatible with polyester resin.  Some epoxy is so strong that you will get a very good mechanical bond to the original glass, but a chemical bond is not possible between polyester and epoxy.

If you put down a lamination using vinylester resin first, further laminations with epoxy can follow.  This will promote a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond between the polyester and vinylester laminations and between the epoxy and the vinylester laminations.  Basically, the vinylester resin lamination acts like a primer between the epoxy and the polyester resin systems.  The way it was explained to me by the chemists who formulate the resins is, one side of the vinylester resin molecule looks like a polyester resin molecule and the other side looks like an epoxy resin molecule, allowing a molecular bond to occur.

Word of caution:  there are so many epoxies available now, make sure that the one you choose is compatible with your intended repair.  It is possible the whole repair could just release from the original glass.

I think I would stick with the polyester resin system as that is most likely what your original glass was laminated with.  To promote a complete cure of any polyester resin or polyester gel coat you apply, you can add styrene wax to your resin or gel coat.  Here is a quote from http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins

Get a Complete Cure
# 71 Styrene Wax is a 5% solution of paraffin dissolved in styrene that may be added to non waxed polyester resins and gel coats to prevent the prolonged tackiness associated with thin sections of polyesters. If the resin contains paraffins, the wax will rise to the surface and protect the curing resin from the inhibiting action of the air. However, if the resin is allowed to fully cure, the paraffins on the surface will prevent adhesion of further coats of resin and must be sanded off prior to additional applications. We recommend adding #71 at 5% for thin coatings. Use with #1040 Hi-Gloss Additive when performing repairs below the water line.

That's what I would do.. Sand it super good with 60 grit, make sure the whole bottom is super clean, then brush a nice thin layer of hotcoat resin ( styrene/polyester resin) across the bottom, and sand it smooth.

Made a little headway on the motor plate fab, got my templates done.

Did a bit of painting, gotta re-assemble the pump tomorrow and hopefully get the intake out and ready for reseal.

Once the pumps all back in the boat ill be able to mock up the motor and make final adjustments to my templates then transfer them to aluminum.

Fun stuff!!


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats

Finally got the intake ready to reset. Check, double check, triple check!

Think I'm being too anal?! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats

is that intake cut for a shoe? What angle are you planing on setting it in at?


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

Got it in! Ended up right about 4.1*. What a messy bitch it was too! Good thing I had my hot helper to give me a hand.


Sent from my iPhone using SoCalJetBoats