New Project-Rail kit

« **on:** January 24, 2010, 04:01:59 PM »

Guys, would like your thoughts on rail kit features for a new install. I need to take my intake out to put a new one in, so while the boat is apart, I thought I might redo my engine compartment rigging. There are a few things I want to change, but would like thoughts(and preferably pix) of ideas/features that made an install cleaner, more functional or just plain trick.

Thanks in advance!

« **Reply #1 on:** January 24, 2010, 04:13:25 PM »

here is the rail kit I made for my boat. 2x2x1/4" aluminum angle and 2x1/4" flat plate. 50.00 bucks in material

« **Reply #2 on:** January 24, 2010, 05:06:47 PM »

Thats a clean install. I have something similar(I think its a lightning rail kit now for BBC). Im looking to add some material(or-not cut so much away) so I can have a place to pass water lines through, mount misc. stuff etc. Just looking for some ideas...

« **Reply #3 on:** January 25, 2010, 07:40:13 AM »

Pics are required on this site.

« **Reply #4 on:** January 25, 2010, 08:20:23 AM »

Although a little more complicated to mock up than 3 or 4 pt the rail kit is the hands down winner for clean install IMO not sure what you mean by adding or not taking away material ? though

« **Reply #5 on:** January 25, 2010, 10:17:07 AM »

If this is for a race boat install I thought it was always nice to have all your braded stainless rout to one place on a motor plate that was drilled for AN bulkhead fittings. Engine removal is simpler then because all lines are in one place and you can't miss something and look like a dufus when the motor doesn't lift neetly out of the boat when you forget to disconnect an oil pressure line. You can also use aircraft electrical bulkhead plugs for wires. The only things I couldn't figure out was tach drives and throttle cables. If you do this be sure you leave enough room for the wrenches to get arrouond the bulkhead fittings!

« **Reply #6 on:** January 25, 2010, 11:07:59 AM »

Quote from: wizard612 on January 25, 2010, 10:17:07 AM

If this is for a race boat install I thought it was always nice to have all your braded stainless rout to one place on a motor plate that was drilled for AN bulkhead fittings. Engine removal is simpler then because all lines are in one place and you can't miss something and look like a dufus when the motor doesn't lift neetly out of the boat when you forget to disconnect an oil pressure line. You can also use aircraft electrical bulkhead plugs for wires. The only things I couldn't figure out was tach drives and throttle cables. If you do this be sure you leave enough room for the wrenches to get arrouond the bulkhead fittings!

The problem I have with that, while a bitchen idea and have seen it done, you just tripled the chances for electrical problems and leaks...

On a full blown race deal, your not supposed to have to pull the engine out, if you need to, you are already looking like a "dufus"

If you use a little forethought, your connections for electric and water should be very straight forward...we color coded everything for an engine removal (I used Yellow heat shrink tubing on everything that needed to be removed)...Made the job go faster if you had someone unfamiliar with the boat helping pull stuff apart...

GT

« **Reply #7 on:** January 25, 2010, 03:50:36 PM »

The correct type of ectrical plug with soldered, sealed wires and waterproof connections worked fine. My only electrical problems came from stupid ignition boxes that couldn't take sprint boat pounding. I did have an excellent source for those plugs though, they were requisitioned by my dad who was working at Northrop at the time. The engineers took a liking to our racing program. As far as looking like a "dufus" yanking an engine at the track, I think we only did it once. But we made the next heat with the spares we brought with us. I carried an A-frame and hoist to each race and others used it as well. Be kind to me GT This was stuff I did 30 years ago and NO one on the beach called us kids "dufus".

« **Reply #8 on:** January 25, 2010, 03:54:58 PM »

for my electrical connections, i use MSD Deutsch connectors....i got tired of cutting wires and using butt connectors everytime i pulled/set the motor.

« **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2010, 06:20:06 PM »

Quote from: jet boat performance on January 25, 2010, 08:20:23 AM

Although a little more complicated to mock up than 3 or 4 pt the rail kit is the hands down winner for clean install IMO not sure what you mean by adding or not taking away material ? though

By extra material I meant extra material on the plates, ie, not trimming them so much, leaving room for mounting things.

« **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2010, 06:21:22 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 25, 2010, 11:07:59 AM

The problem I have with that, while a bitchen idea and have seen it done, you just tripled the chances for electrical problems and leaks...

On a full blown race deal, your not supposed to have to pull the engine out, if you need to, you are already looking like a "dufus"

If you use a little forethought, your connections for electric and water should be very straight forward...we color coded everything for an engine removal (I used Yellow heat shrink tubing on everything that needed to be removed)...Made the job go faster if you had someone unfamiliar with the boat helping pull stuff apart...

GT

GT, I like the bulkhead idea, I will see if I can incorporate.

Brendellajet

New Project-Rail kit

MADSKILLZ

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jet boat performance

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GT Jets

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