[maddogg20]

its a hydraulic flat tappett cam. I was thinking about taking the center springs out just to lighten the load on the cam during break in. And are you talking about that non detergent oil? because i was just gonna get some of that and a break in additive from comp cams. spring pressure should be 140 lbs seat pressure according to the cam card. Is it common practice to take the inner spring out on a hydraulic cam or just on solid?  also, I got a set of crane gold race series roller rockers, if that makes any difference.

Also, I am taking my engine to obnoxious001's shop and we are gonna measure for which pushrods to use and what not, because i threw out the stock ones by accident.

[429heads]

the spring pressure is set by the distance form the retainer bottom to the spring cup face the spring pressure is at set height for the 140 lb, to close and more spring pressure more distance less pressure. No the oil is for off road use good for 500 miles or braking motors in
cost a bout $8.00 or More per quart.  Spring may be  installed at 1.88= 140lb  175 = 160  1.900 may be =110 you have to  check installed distance to know what pressure you have and you need to check all of them you may need to shim them up or down ?. and you will need index springs to index push rods. you used the braking lube you got with cam on the lifter bottoms you should be all right with light springs and off road oil.

[GT Jets]

the spring pressure is set by the distance form the retainer bottom to the spring cup face the spring pressure is at set height for the 140 lb, to close and more spring pressure more distance less pressure. No the oil is for off road use good for 500 miles or braking motors in
cost a bout $8.00 or More per quart.  Spring may be  installed at 1.88= 140lb  175 = 160  1.900 may be =110 you have to  check installed distance to know what pressure you have and you need to check all of them you may need to shim them up or down ?. and you will need index springs to index push rods. you used the braking lube you got with cam on the lifter bottoms you should be all right with light springs and off road oil.

X2, but I really like the Comp break in addative, I use half a bottle with every oil chang with racing synthetic oil (Amsoil), way overkill, but I don't have the extra funds to build it twice..

GT

[IRRebel]

X2, but I really like the Comp break in addative, I use half a bottle with every oil chang with racing synthetic oil (Amsoil), way overkill, but I don't have the extra funds to build it twice..

GT

X3, 'tis why I use the Joe Gibbs stuff that Jeremy thinks is too expensive. If I break it, gonna be entirely my own fault, not the equipment.

Ray

[maddogg20]

ill take the inner springs out for break in. Ill make sure to spin the hell outta the oil pump with a drill before i stab the dizzy too. Isnt there a danger of floating the valves with the inner one gone during break in tho?

[GT Jets]

ill take the inner springs out for break in. Ill make sure to spin the hell outta the oil pump with a drill before i stab the dizzy too. Isnt there a danger of floating the valves with the inner one gone during break in tho?

Just don't rap the hell out of it, you'll be OK, keep the rev's around 2000 RPM varying it every few mins. for 20-35 mins. or until the police show up 

You want to vary the r's to keep slinging oil up to the camshaft.

Anyone else?

GT

[IRRebel]

X2, I honestly think you're ok to 3000 or so rpm tho without the danger of valve float, short bursts to 4k or so will probably be ok and warranted given you're trying to break in a cam and sling oil (And zinc) to as many places as possible. (Just a whack of the throttle, don't hold it there). Chebbies do have some pretty good oiling systems, so you should be OK. I would also leave the valvetrain a little on the loose side. Just my opinion.

Biggest thing to remember is if you're using Rotella or Amsoil for the break-in, it's heavier and with the additive, it's gonna have a lot more metal clinging abililties than your regular running oil. bear this in mind and keep a close eye on your oil pressure. I've seen guys burst oil filters on a bench run. (My engine nearly did it too, took a 2 foot pipe wrench to get the filter off!). Still running high oil pressure, but I think I got that figured out.

I ran Gibb's break in oil at Mead, to seat in the rings, now running their Hot Rod oil. No additives needed according to Lake Speed. Second best to that is Pennzoils Race Only oil and Valvolines Race Only stuff. No additives needed or wanted according to the Nascar guys that turned me onto this stuff.

Just my .02 hope this helps.

Ray

[maddogg20]

so if i break it in with something like rotella and a break in additive from one of the many manufacturers, take out the center spring, and vary the rpms, and run a nice thick wall oil filter like one of the K&N's or mobil ones I should be fine for the break in?

[GT Jets]

so if i break it in with something like rotella and a break in additive from one of the many manufacturers, take out the center spring, and vary the rpms, and run a nice thick wall oil filter like one of the K&N's or mobil ones I should be fine for the break in?

I would say your GTG... But just to be a PITA, disconnect the DL to the pump..

GT

[maddogg20]

i dont want it spinning the pump even if im feeding water to it?

[GT Jets]

i dont want it spinning the pump even if im feeding water to it?

Not if you don't need to, I always just pull the DL if I know I have to run the motor, with the new pump  I don't even think I should do a dry fire, this things pretty tight, I don't like spinning the pumps dry if not needed, it's a thrust issue that messes it up for me, there is no forward thrust w/o being in the water and the main bearing is designed to be pushed forward while spinning..

To each his own though..

GT

[IRRebel]

so if i break it in with something like rotella and a break in additive from one of the many manufacturers, take out the center spring, and vary the rpms, and run a nice thick wall oil filter like one of the K&N's or mobil ones I should be fine for the break in?

Yup, you should be GTG, you just need to decide what you're gonna run in it from then on. And yeah, disconnect the d/l, the hose will NOT suffice on the pump side. OK for the engine.

I'm gonna break that rule tomorrow when I fire up the Moo boat with it's new tunnel, however, for a second or two, just to make sure it'll start before I hit the ramp 35 minutes away.

Remember you're only breaking in (Actually, pre-galling and hardening) the cam on this dealio. You still need to follow some break in procedures with the rings, if you changed them, and main/rod bearings.

But sounds like you have it in hand.

Ray

[maddogg20]

I actually didnt replace the bearings or the rings. When I had the heads off, I was still able to see a cross-hatch pattern in the bores of the engine, so most likely it didnt have many hours on it. It ran when I got it and sounded healthy. Once I put the heads back on when I had the air hose hooked into the spark plug holes to keep the valves up when I was changing the springs, i didnt hear hardly any air escaping past the rings. What ill most likely do is run the engine this season, or until it breaks, and then stroke and bore it to a 496 and use all forged internals, but that way ill be able to re-use the intake manifold, the rockers, and most of my parts. :-)

I just have to get my pushrod situation figured out and then to omars storage unit itll go to get it dropped in and fired up. lol yea were gonna break in the cam there because there arent houses near by and none of the other tenants give 2 shits lol.

[IRRebel]

You're gtg. You got Omar involved. Will call you this week if you still have the bahner!

Ray

[maddogg20]

lol omar will drink beer as fast as the boat will drink gas so I will make sure that I keep both well fueled lol.

[NAFLASH]

What kind of paint did you use to paint the boat?

[realHawaiianJet]

What's with all the paint over-spray on the cylinder walls, pistons, and gasket surfaces??? Tape is pretty cheap and old newspapers are even cheaper.

[maddogg20]

lol because i replaced all the stuff that got painted :-) so at that point i didnt care lol.

[78centurian]

have you got this thing together yet bro?

[realHawaiianJet]

lol because i replaced all the stuff that got painted :-) so at that point i didnt care lol.

Ok just wasn't sure cause you said that you didn't replace the rings.

[maddogg20]

after i painted it i realized my mistake, so i popped the tops of the pistons just out of the bore and cleaned em, lol. Its getting there, all I have to do is get my pushrods and stick them and the lifters in, bolt up the starter, connect everything and break the engine in.

[maddogg20]

Hey guys,

Finally got the engine in with the help of our good friend Omar, and sean. Heres some pics of the process lol.

Loading the engine in omars truck.


HEY MAN WHERE THE HELLS THE BEER!!!!  :-D


Droppin it in




Look at that beast!!!


Changing the rail height


Measuring the rails and bolting em in


Droppin the engine in






Drilling out the extra holes



Setting up the feet

[maddogg20]

what yall think lol. 

[IRRebel]

Looks great Andy!, But I think you shoulda with held the beer until AFTER it was in. Looks like it went in backwards. Dizzy's in the back!

Ray

Lookin good bro, you might make Echo Bay in June!

[maddogg20]

Heres an update guys :-) Shes running and the cams broken in. She sounds GREAT :-)

Heres a pic from when I plugged all the spare holes int he stringers with lil pieces of dowel



fuel pump bracket that I made from an ignition coil bracket, lol BLING BLING!!!




Regulator


Alternator mounted with bracketry that we made lol


Throttle cable bracket


Pump mounted


Carb Chillin


sender installed


Rockers installed :-)



water inlets



headers installed and adding oil :-D


Dizzy installed and wired



Ready to fire


Truck and boat



Scoop (pics of it mounted soon to come)


And what you all waited for.... vid of her running during break in hehe.



What yall think
?


I want to seriously thank everyone who helped me thru this process.... Omar for putting up with me thru the mounting of the rails using the stoarge unit I mean man hangout, using his truck to move the cherry picker and sacrificing a nice new paint job in the bed and everything else I put you thru, boost for helping me with the carb, and getting it fired, Ray for all the carb advice and help, Berry who is a total wealth of motor knowledge, Steve for letting me use his cherry picker last minute lol and everyone else who put up with my phone calls late at night, all my miscellaneous crap, and stupid questions that I posted on here, lol all you guys rock, and when I see u on the beach ill have a few cold ones waiting for yall.

Thanks again guys,
Andy