How come you Ford boys are always using using recycled car/truck stuff and destroying it? I havent seen a 460 build on here yet besides Ralphs that has some nice heads, or performance parts.


How many 460 and 455 problem and scattered motors do we have on this board?? Quite a few. All of our 2-bolt Chevy's are still together and doing well but I notice alot of Ford rebuilds and alot of Fords with extra "porting" in there oil pans. All of them used rebuild whatever ford rods etc.

GET IT TOGETHER FORD BOYS..............

If I owned a 460 I would at least stud the bastard and use some good rods and bolts that hold together.

Am I starting crap?? Yes

Why??
I don't have HB to read and I am bored

My 460 came out of a 69 Lincoln Cont. It is all original except for the new forged pistons, push rods, timing chain, cam, aluminum intake, and carb...
Sure I got the heads reworked a little.  OK, I guess that just leaves the punched out block, and balanced rotating assembly.




Now I'm no expert but this makes a nice read
http://www.highflowdynamics.com/

Pay special attention to Advantages of Ford Over Chevy

I didn't build the 700+ 500 cu Ford I bought this one ,But how bout some ported (raised floor) SCJ heads and offset ground stoker crank ,Howard Aluminum rods,13.5 to 1 Arias action (and a lot more)

or  a ground shakin' 550 hp+ 408 Windsor stroker  ?


Most of what we build admittedly is BBC but we also love Fords ,Olds and Mopar,its all "nuts and bolts"  Tom

my 460 is studded both bottom end and top end with alum heads bored 20 over balanced thru out with stealth alum intake /demon card/msd ignition and marine box=has been together for teo years now without any problems just oil changes=it is not run easy=alot of 1/4 mile racing

I've never had any problems with mine either! It is a Harmin Marine 460. I added the tunnell ram and all MSD ignition and the TT headers. I love this motor.

How come you Ford boys are always using using recycled car/truck stuff and destroying it? I havent seen a 460 build on here yet besides Ralphs that has some nice heads, or performance parts.

GET IT TOGETHER FORD BOYS..............

This might qualify for having nice Heads and some performance parts. This 514 is out of the boat and on a 4 wheel cart. It makes 840 hp @6500 rpm on a conservative DTS Dyno, and ran 9.85 @ 109 at the races(could have e.t'd much better, but it was run with the setup I run at the River). The next engine will be a lot bigger and better(in all ways). I'll post it here when I'm done and it's dyno'd.   RR

How come you Ford boys are always using using recycled car/truck stuff and destroying it? I havent seen a 460 build on here yet besides Ralphs that has some nice heads, or performance parts.


How many 460 and 455 problem and scattered motors do we have on this board?? Quite a few. All of our 2-bolt Chevy's are still together and doing well but I notice alot of Ford rebuilds and alot of Fords with extra "porting" in there oil pans. All of them used rebuild whatever ford rods etc.

GET IT TOGETHER FORD BOYS..............

If I owned a 460 I would at least stud the bastard and use some good rods and bolts that hold together.

Am I starting crap?? Yes

Why??
I don't have HB to read and I am bored

Blue thanx for the kind words, i spent a lot of$$ and time to get it where it is now. Dont get me wrong ive had my share of the ford blues, i asked a lot of ? and done a lot of reading, not to mention having my pops by my side. (he's forgotton more than i'll ever know)

i got my first boat with a supposed good 460 well it lasted a season and i just wanted something more powerfull so i got the stroker kit and used my home ported d3's. i spun a bearing in my new motor 1st trip out, the end result as far i as i could tell was the block was NOT cleaned well enough after machining (my mistake) . oh-well  got it back together then i spit a lash cap off and i had just about had enough, hence the aluminum heads, all has been good since and i beat the shit out of it. NOT just 1/4 mile passes either as you know. the only reason the bottom end is studded is because i had them laying around.
sorry for the long post
ralph

This  is the whole reason for all my new parts and all my annoying questions.

2sav

How come you Ford boys are always using using recycled car/truck stuff and destroying it? I havent seen a 460 build on here yet besides Ralphs that has some nice heads, or performance parts.

If I owned a 460 I would at least stud the bastard and use some good rods and bolts that hold together.

The LAST performance component I would use in a 429/460 block these days is main studs.  Why? Because in most applications the OEM main bolts are by far the better way to go in these engines.  If you need something other than the OEM main bolts, then, 1) you need to know how to properly tune your engine, or, 2) your hp is so high that it's time to step up to a 4-bolt conversion.

Fact is that performance prepped factory stuff has such a tremendous amount of hp potential and power sustaining capabilities that one does not need to turn to the aluminum/aftermarket hard core componentry if they choose not to.  700hp from a naturally aspirated passenger car issue cast iron block, crank and heads is possible and can be done reliably, and much much more with power adders...and the parts can handle this no problem.





The above is factory iron, including "smogger" D3VE heads.  You just need to fully understand what you have to work with and how to put it together properly; in 90% of the cases that I have seen where the engine grenaded it most certainly was not the fault of the factory components being used.

LO

Hey Paul, good to see you here! We spoke on the phone the other day and you really opened my eyes up to the potential of the 460 BBF. I have some questions regarding clearances as I've heard some varying opinions, what do you recommend for piston to cylinder wall clearance? Mains? Rods? Ring gap? Any other important stuff to look out for as I assemble my 460?

Thanks!
Skip         

Good questions Skip,   i have the same ? for my build

2sav

That is indeed a cool pic.  I tried to "enhance" it a bit.

Edelbrock heads, block bored .030 over, Comp Cams chrome moly roller rockers, 3/8" hardened push rods w/guide plates, SRP forged pistons, Total Seal pistons rings, Clay Smith bump stick and lifters, 10 quart dooley pan, Tunnel ram with a pair of Holley 660s, 150 shot of nitrous (Edelbrock), Federal Mogul beaings, Fel Pro gaskets, All ARP fasteners.

Got six seasons of hard running (lots of nitrous run through it). Did a leak down on it a week ago and had one cylinder at 4%, one at 6% and the rest all at 5%.

Oh yeah it's all stock lower end with 2 bolt mains, stock crank turned .010" and recon'd factory rods.

I know the stock bottom end is good to 650 hp. Ask me how I know.

How's that?

hey Lakes, where did you get that twin oil filter thingy? that thing is sweet! i want one for my BBF...does it come w/ the head mount?

Reid

It's just an ol' dual remote filter adaptor that holds two filters, and then the filter pad adaptor that attaches to the block.  Summit probably carries a few differnt types.



My advice is to buy brand name quality billet pieces and not today's offshore cheapo castings.   Ralph Brunt knows what I'm talking about by way of his personal experience.

Finally, the lines are DIY and so is the aluminum bracket.

LO