Teach me all mighty racer jetter boater people!  I have never been taught and I understand all boats are different but what is the best way to get out of the hole and to your top speed fast? I have droop and diverter.

So...
Diverter down at start then tap up a few to get to max speed?
Or diverter is already up a couple notches and go like that?
Teach me!
Memorial weekend is close and CFW is ruthless.

If your going to get racey in public and are new to the game my I suggest you put some tape on your steering wheel to easily identify when your nozzle is straight. Even many drag boaters do this. Will your boat (pump) load immediately and launch when you flat the loud pedal from an idle? The short answer to your question is nozzle down at the hit. As the boat begins to accelerate and raise up out of the water you will want to start raising the nozzle in small increments until it gently and (most importantly safely) rolls over onto plane. You will likely continue to raise the nozzle some with acceleration until you reach the ideal plane angle. It will be before the boat wants to start porpoising (at mid speed with nozzle higher up). This is a very basic bit of info. as there is a lot of rather technical minute details to learn and account for. If you are really unfamiliar with the whole process it would be best (read that safest) for all involved to find somebody there to ask questions of, ask to go for a ride and see how experienced people do it etc. and then go out in your boat and practice what you learned by yourself, away from other boats etc. simulating a race condition to get a feel of what to expect and how your boat will respond and what it wants, your nozzle position etc. Even with the wheel straight some boats don't launch straight. That would be good to know before you get side by side and wack the loud pedal. Ever notice how far apart the boats are separated at the race track? that's not by ACCIDENT if you get what I mean. Are you familiar with the phrase point of convergence? In fun, public racing situations it's common for both boats to be lined up straight at the hit yet end up very close together at the end of a run often requiring evasive action. Things happen very fast out there, even at 60-80 mph. when you are caught up in the excitement of racing for shits n giggles. Have a great time out there and give them hell. (sober and safely of course, with at the very least, a life jacket on) I hope this is of some help to you.

If your going to get racey in public and are new to the game my I suggest you put some tape on your steering wheel to easily identify when your nozzle is straight. Even many drag boaters do this. Will your boat (pump) load immediately and launch when you flat the loud pedal from an idle? The short answer to your question is nozzle down at the hit. As the boat begins to accelerate and raise up out of the water you will want to start raising the nozzle in small increments until it gently and (most importantly safely) rolls over onto plane. You will likely continue to raise the nozzle some with acceleration until you reach the ideal plane angle. It will be before the boat wants to start porpoising (at mid speed with nozzle higher up). This is a very basic bit of info. as there is a lot of rather technical minute details to learn and account for. If you are really unfamiliar with the whole process it would be best (read that safest) for all involved to find somebody there to ask questions of, ask to go for a ride and see how experienced people do it etc. and then go out in your boat and practice what you learned by yourself, away from other boats etc. simulating a race condition to get a feel of what to expect and how your boat will respond and what it wants, your nozzle position etc. Even with the wheel straight some boats don't launch straight. That would be good to know before you get side by side and wack the loud pedal. Ever notice how far apart the boats are separated at the race track? that's not by ACCIDENT if you get what I mean. Are you familiar with the phrase point of convergence? In fun, public racing situations it's common for both boats to be lined up straight at the hit yet end up very close together at the end of a run often requiring evasive action. Things happen very fast out there, even at 60-80 mph. when you are caught up in the excitement of racing for shits n giggles. Have a great time out there and give them hell. (sober and safely of course, with at the very least, a life jacket on) I hope this is of some help to you.

👌🏻 perfect!!


BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!

Hit the gas, let the timers do the rest..... Shit.... Lol what was said above was spot on! 👍🏻


Sent from McIntyre Park

Diverter down-check
Nos bottle on-check
Nos armed-check
Look over nob your head
Gas and up diverter same time
Boat about to roll over- nos engaged
Keeping up with a 9.0 boat in river trim-priceless


BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!

Haha lol


BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!

I have a manual diverter. I start with it on the second lowest notch. My left hand is on the steering wheel and my right hand is down between my legs on the diverter handle. Once I stomp the peddle I wait about 2 seconds then move the handle up 1 or 2 notches, without looking down. I could put a bolt in the base to stop the handle but my way works for me.

Have you dialed in your ride plate angle already?

Try limiting your diverter travel to 7-degrees up and 4-degrees down as a starting point.  You will probably adjust closer to zero as you dial in your boat.

I'm sorry, I don't remember which hull you have, more specifically, what the bottom looks like.  The shape of the bottom will dictate where you take the baseline measurement from.  It will be the same as where you measure for your ride plate angle.

The idea is to pop the transom out of the water without doing a wheelie.  Get a friend to video your launch from the side.  You want it to launch straight without bouncing.

From the whitewater world,  a wheelie is fine as long as is don't effect forward movement and take a set really soon.

Is this not the case in the drag world?

Honest question, not trying to be funny.

I have driven some seriously pissed off jet boats that carried the bow very well and it never really seemed to cause a slower launch. Keeping the bow low and shooting at the horizon just seems counter intuitive to me.

GT

To distinguish between doing a wheelie



and carrying the bow or airing out



In the 2nd video, notice the water is breaking about 12-18" in front of the loader pad.  Basically, only about the last 3' of the center sponson is in contact with the water.  000 had a Place Diverter with a turnbuckle, instead of a hydraulic/pneumatic cylinder, for adjusting trim.  Minute adjustments, in 0.1-degree increments were made every pass to compensate for changing track conditions.

You want the boat to take a set as fast as possible.  Any motion that doesn't directly contribute to forward momentum is detrimental to ET.  Anything that can be done to decrease 60' time will carry out to the top end of the run.  It is much harder to pick it up at the top end.

Here is a video Chris's Daytona and Jordan Woods' Place Craft.  These two boats are undeniably well set up.   It took many years to get these boats performing this way.  The white and red Place Craft will now run 8.0 on engine only.



Notice how the boats in the video basically just rock forward and take a set.  There are boats that launch better than these two, but I don't have access to any videos.

This is really only a drag race thing.  You don't see NASCAR launching out of a staging area like NHRA.  Endurance racing is won elsewhere on the track.

Now I ask, since I have never seen a complete white water race start to finish, how important is the start?

Cheers,

Joe

Oh I know the difference between a wheelie and carrying the bow.

As for the start of a marathon race,  not that big of a deal on a timed start,  but a mass start can keep you very dry and comfortable if you nail the start and no one is on front of you. Trying to get around a 1,000 hp 300' rooster tail is not what I call fun.

I have had boats launch extremely well (from what I thought anyway) and it seems if you can get it to never really settle back down and stay carrying the bow the same from beginning to end I guess is where my head was at,  if that were the case,  the nozzle should never really need to move.

Maybe I was just over thinking things. My Diverter is run by a manual control and an override foot pedal and you drive it very similar to how you would drive a flat.

The foot pedal only moves the nozzle by a few degrees (about 3/8" cable throw) from where it's set on the ratchet.

Thanks brother.

I am just not a fan one one handing the wheel even though the first boat I ever drove solo was a kneel down hydro with a dead man throttle.

GT

So I broke the seal this morning at 730 and woke up quarter mile cove. Kinda cool. Never done it before.  Basically I would slam the throttle but it seemed like the pump couldnt keep up with the power and even banged on my limiter. For me it was 3/4 throttle to get out of the hole, a few notches on the diverter, pedal in the floor. Still learning, but we found a good happy zone. She ran really good.

So I broke the seal this morning at 730 and woke up quarter mile cove. Kinda cool. Never done it before.  Basically I would slam the throttle but it seemed like the pump couldnt keep up with the power and even banged on my limiter. For me it was 3/4 throttle to get out of the hole, a few notches on the diverter, pedal in the floor. Still learning, but we found a good happy zone. She ran really good.

Please refresh my memory, what impeller?  Do you have an inducer?  A loader?

JC Pump, Aluminum A Impeller. No inducer. Yes loader.

Are you running a nozzle insert?

GT

Got to be honest, not sure and not much knowledge about it.

Goin to read all you and flusher were talkin about. Looks like good stuff. 👍