Will you be bringing around the famous "Field Installation Team" in that thing?

My Unc's the one to talk to about those things, he's had several now. Currently has a Camelot. (yeah, friggin thing cost more than THREE TIMES what I paid for my house!).

Ray

OK, let me clarify...there is NOTHING in "Creampuff" that beeps...ever.  It was built using pre-beep technology, so on that question I am not gonna be any help.  Regarding propane instruction...1. turn the tank valve on.  2.  turn the stove burner on 3. Light it w/ a lighter  4.  If the flame goes out, refill the tank.  Repeat step 1.

Tom, I hope the previous owner did you a solid by keeping a binder or folder of all of the manuals and accessory records.  You can take it to Camping World, and they will show you how to use everything, or there are numerous websites that you can get your questions answered.

welcome to another expensive hobby

Looks like a fume detector to me. If it beeps for a long time dont light a match. If you fart too much it might go off too

That is an LPG detector...Propane is "odorized" with garlic oil and is heavier than air (read, displaces oxygen) but if the leak is small, you won't be able to smell it and that little whatchamacallit is actually an HC or Hydrocarbon detector, it should be linked to a master propane shut off valve...Mine died years ago and I replaced it with a dual detection deal from Camping World, it does HC and CO, the CO (carbon monoxide) is spent HC, so if the heater or the refrigerator does not get complete combustion or there is a fuel leak, you're covered....cost like $260...Cheap insurance IMO...

GT

Congrats on the purchase 

First things first, Tires are very important on motorhomes.  You need to look at the date codes on the tires and replace as needed.  General rule of thumb it after 5 years watch them closely and after 7 replace "period".  You can find the date code molded into the tire following the DOT#, it will be a 3 or 4 digit number.  First 2 digits are the week 01-52 and the 3rd/4th are the year.  If you have 3 digit coded tires they are from the 90's and need to be removed.  In 2000 they went to the 4 digit code  (1602 = 16th week of 2002).  What happens is the tires will start to delaminate from the inside with little warning while driving.  So Please check the tires before starting out on a trip, a failed tire can rip the body apart on one of these rigs.

Now on to the fun stuff.  We specialize in RV chassis performance and service.  We recommend having the coach weighed and adjusting the tire pressures based on the weight on the tires, along with a good alignment.  Then we can talk about adding track bars, sway bars (yours will have a factory rear bar already), steering stabilizers, shocks...

Let me know when I can schedule to get you in for service 

Check us out at www.redlandstruckservice.com

Here is a great website for information on all things RV   www.irv2.com   You can look up information posted by other owners under the chassis (Ford), Body (Fleetwood), or just about any other thing you could be looking for.

Good luck with it, and have fun.

crewchief

I hope it's not the E350 chassis with a coach that big on it.  It it probably an F53 chassis more than likely. 

Engine accessory replacement will generally require a visual inspection to determine R&R time because different body companies made access vary.  Normally for an alternator you're going to be in the 1 - 1 1/2 hr range unless you have to remove half the coach for access.

As for the house batteries, depending on what it has now, when you replace them we recommend installing 2 6v deep cycle batteries in series to replace the original 12v deep cycles that came originally.  We prefer the Trojan brand batteries   http://www.trojan-battery.com/  for the best results. 

The advantage of using the 6v over the 12v is battery life cycles (how many times the battery will take a charge after being run down),  the Trojans have over 700 life cycles and most 12v batteries have about 125.

Hope this helps and keep the questions coming.

Nice John I'm envious But I could'nt hang with the load and off load of my cab over (plus it was way too small) Heres a ?? for you RV Gurus please help ! though the AC kept blowing the shore power breaker (my garage only has 20 amp service so I fire up the Generator ! It promply quit after about 10 minutes and "ran out of gas (none in the line)  but Genius Son therorized that because my drive way is sloped and my Coach fuel was at 1/4 the gen "shut down" was a "designed" fail safe to keep a dumbass Rv'r from running out of fuel in the campsite ??

Nice John I'm envious But I could'nt hang with the load and off load of my cab over (plus it was way too small) Heres a ?? for you RV Gurus please help ! though the AC kept blowing the shore power breaker (my garage only has 20 amp service so I fire up the Generator ! It promply quit after about 10 minutes and "ran out of gas (none in the line)  but Genius Son therorized that because my drive way is sloped and my Coach fuel was at 1/4 the gen "shut down" was a "designed" fail safe to keep a dumbass Rv'r from running out of fuel in the campsite ??

Go fill the tank tightwad

The gas pick up tube is quite a bit shorter than the engine pick up so you don't suck the tank dry and be el stranido...

FWIW the AC should not blow a 20 amp breaker, it may have been a while since it's been run, may be OK once it fires off. Try the percussive maintenance method (pull the cover and give the compressor a whack with a dead blow hammer)...Let me know if I can help, may be wanting a hard start capacitor installed, I can run my AC on a 1800 watt generator and from a 15 amp breaker through a GFI  


GT

30 AMP may sound high, but that's what the owner's manual for my trailer says, trust me I popped more than my share of  circuit breakers before I actually read the damn thing.

EDIT* I just looked, the manual says a MIN of 30A but 50A is suggested. My bad.

30 AMP may sound high, but that's what the owner's manual for my trailer says, trust me I popped more than my share of  circuit breakers before I actually read the damn thing.

EDIT* I just looked, the manual says a MIN of 30A but 50A is suggested. My bad.

Skip get the gold star, the decal on the Elect service door says minimum  30 amp service and yes I had 2 long ass extension cords running to the coach (total of about 80 ft) which didn't help then to add to my 20 amp breaker is worn and week the Onan held its own for an Hour after I gave it a "outside fuel source" never considered the 1/4 tank deal  I'm seriously considering a "basement located" aux tank anyhow , don't like the "shared fuel system" that well  Thanks everyone for the info , would love to get my hands on the original mauals for the various operating systems Tom

Sam the Camper is actually designed for a Midsize or in my case a 5.5 ft bed F150 , more info if your interested Tom

Tom- I could possibly be interested in the cramper, what's the guts?