Ran outta gas in Parker....

« **on:** July 16, 2013, 08:10:32 PM »

So I'm flying down the strip and having a blast when my motor starts acting a little funny.

No big figured I was low on gas. Hit my fuel switch real quick to try and head off the stalling and doesn't work. So now I'm floating down the strip.

Bro in law comes back and tows me into the river gas station. Meanwhile I have 15 gallons in my other tanks. Booooo.

Moral of the story is SCREW those damn electric tank switches. Switching over to a manual switch ASAP.

« **Reply #1 on:** July 17, 2013, 11:23:40 AM »

I just had a similar problem. Put a new switch and it happened again. The problem I find that I'm having is water in the tank is breaking down the aluminum and big chunks of shit are blocking the tank switch.

« **Reply #2 on:** July 17, 2013, 12:38:16 PM »

regardless of what you choose im a firm believer that you should *ALWAYS* have ball valves on your tanks. if you have a leak you MUST be able to shut off the fuel. turning on your ignition so that you can switch over your fuel switch would not be a good idea in the case with a bunch of fuel in the bilge. if plumbed correctly you should have a fuel pump lower than the tank and create a siphon, how are you going to stop that if you blew a hose?

and realistically how difficult is it to reach back there and turn a valve. its not like you're gonna be doing it hundreds of times a day.

« **Reply #3 on:** July 17, 2013, 01:00:52 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 17, 2013, 12:38:16 PM

regardless of what you choose im a firm believer that you should *ALWAYS* have ball valves on your tanks. if you have a leak you MUST be able to shut off the fuel. turning on your ignition so that you can switch over your fuel switch would not be a good idea in the case with a bunch of fuel in the bilge. if plumbed correctly you should have a fuel pump lower than the tank and create a siphon, how are you going to stop that if you blew a hose?

and realistically how difficult is it to reach back there and turn a valve. its not like you're gonna be doing it hundreds of times a day.

Just throwing this our there for the newbies...

It is a requirement by law to have an anti siphon check valve at the tank pick up tube.....

There are no exceptions. This of course applies to pleasure craft and craft for hire, a race boat is under a different classification but would be required to have one if used as a pleasure craft.

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« **Reply #4 on:** July 17, 2013, 01:34:35 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on July 17, 2013, 01:00:52 PM

Just throwing this our there for the newbies...

It is a requirement by law to have an anti siphon check valve at the tank pick up tube.....

There are no exceptions. This of course applies to pleasure craft and craft for hire, a race boat is under a different classification but would be required to have one if used as a pleasure craft.

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lets be honest. all of our pickup tubes dont have check valves... my tubes are nothing more than brass allthread tubing with a 90* fitting on the end.

« **Reply #5 on:** July 17, 2013, 01:58:05 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 17, 2013, 01:34:35 PM

lets be honest. all of our pickup tubes dont have check valves... my tubes are nothing more than brass allthread tubing with a 90* fitting on the end.

True, that being said, the spring check thing went into effect in the late seventies. I'm sure if you had an issue with a large enough liability, the insurance investigator would look at that specifically. Just throwing it out there for some CYA.

All of our boats have a manual shut off and an anti siphon barb fitting.

That being said, I have been unfortunate enough to see three boats go up in a blaze of glory in the last 25 years or so. One of them was right next to us at the docks and the engine cover missed me and my sister by mere inches.

This is also why "bottom tapping" the tank is not legal. Not saying it is never done.

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« **Reply #6 on:** July 17, 2013, 02:03:31 PM »

Newb question.... Why do draw fuel off one tank at a time and not both equally?

« **Reply #7 on:** July 17, 2013, 02:19:48 PM »

Quote from: cuz_im_CR on July 17, 2013, 02:03:31 PM

Newb question.... Why do draw fuel off one tank at a time and not both equally?

Fluid always takes the path of least resistance, they NEVER flow perfectly even.

The first one to suck air kills the engine.

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« **Reply #8 on:** July 17, 2013, 03:42:57 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 17, 2013, 12:38:16 PM

regardless of what you choose im a firm believer that you should *ALWAYS* have ball valves on your tanks. if you have a leak you MUST be able to shut off the fuel. turning on your ignition so that you can switch over your fuel switch would not be a good idea in the case with a bunch of fuel in the bilge. if plumbed correctly you should have a fuel pump lower than the tank and create a siphon, how are you going to stop that if you blew a hose?

and realistically how difficult is it to reach back there and turn a valve. its not like you're gonna be doing it hundreds of times a day.

Yup and that's why I'm going manual. My boat came with this electric ridiculousness.

« **Reply #9 on:** July 17, 2013, 04:06:49 PM »

Quote from: cuz_im_CR on July 17, 2013, 02:03:31 PM

Newb question.... Why do draw fuel off one tank at a time and not both equally?

like GT said the easiest tank gets more pull. 1" more in hose, a slight incline, a bend, etc will affect draw.

if im putting around normally ill run both. if im gonna make a dam run ill run off one tank, when that one dies i know i have the same amount in the other tank to make it back without paddling.

« **Reply #10 on:** July 17, 2013, 04:34:38 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 17, 2013, 04:06:49 PM

if im gonna make a dam run ill run off one tank, when that one dies i know i have the same amount in the other tank to make it back without paddling.

works in theory, but not on the river.

Dan'l

« **Reply #11 on:** July 17, 2013, 04:47:24 PM »

Quote from: mash on it on July 17, 2013, 04:34:38 PM

works in theory, but not on the river.

Dan'l

it works better than going "oh i have 1/4 left" when your tanks are both angled and the 1/4 you had when you're trying to get back is a % of what the 1/4 you have at the start was... you wont even make it halfway back.

« **Reply #12 on:** July 17, 2013, 05:25:49 PM »

I run one tank until the gauge hits close to empty. then switch..... it reminds me me when I forget by usually running out at the most inopportune time....

« **Reply #13 on:** July 17, 2013, 05:26:01 PM »

Well these are the type of threads that made me want to become a member... Being a newbie myself I learn a lot from the simplest of topics.

My Bahner came with dual 21 gallon tanks and a broken manual valve for switching sides. Because the boat has an engine hatch and the valve was mounted to the transom I replaced it with a straight T-valve to pull off both tanks. Also, I didn't want to end up with 20 gallons in one tank and 5 or less in the other thinking weight could be an issue. I actually measured fuel lines and everything hoping I had have even pull but have now ran out of fuel twice on the lake with a small amount of fuel left on one side.

I will be going back to manual switch and adding ball valves now after GT's info. I know I have the anti valves in my 90's out of the tank but no shut off capability. Also, I made sure to mount my Holley red electric fuel pump lower than tanks so if I were to have an issue it could get bad quick!

GT, do I hard mount ball valves right out of 90's or inline somewhere else?

Thanks all for participating!

« **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2013, 05:30:54 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 17, 2013, 04:47:24 PM

it works better than going "oh i have 1/4 left" when your tanks are both angled and the 1/4 you had when you're trying to get back is a % of what the 1/4 you have at the start was... you wont even make it halfway back.

Hmmmm...
I guess I'm old school
ski flag gas gauge
Float down river-unloading ice chest

Dan'l

« **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:13:20 PM »

Quote from: mash on it on July 17, 2013, 05:30:54 PM

Hmmmm...
I guess I'm old school
ski flag gas gauge
Float down river-unloading ice chest

Dan'l

That's so awesome....

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« **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:17:14 PM »

Quote from: GoinBrokeBahner on July 17, 2013, 05:26:01 PM

GT, do I hard mount ball valves right out of 90's or inline somewhere else?

Thanks all for participating!

I usually go from the pick up tube to a 1/4" ball valve and thread the spring check into that. If they are easy to get to it would be all you need to switch tanks...

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« **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:19:05 PM »

Quote from: mash on it on July 17, 2013, 05:30:54 PM

Hmmmm...
I guess I'm old school
ski flag gas gauge
Float down river-unloading ice chest

Dan'l

I usually pluck a nice dry reed off the beach to check fuel level, or use the hose on my gas can. You're a high roller.

« **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:27:11 PM »

Mine draw pretty evenly. If a tank goes empty, shut it off.

« **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:30:01 PM »

Quote from: lbhsbz on July 17, 2013, 06:19:05 PM

I usually pluck a nice dry reed off the beach to check fuel level, or use the hose on my gas can. You're a high roller.

No billet gas check stick? In brushed finish of course...

« **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:40:31 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on July 17, 2013, 06:17:14 PM

I usually go from the pick up tube to a 1/4" ball valve and thread the spring check into that. If they are easy to get to it would be all you need to switch tanks...

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Thank you!

« **Reply #21 on:** July 18, 2013, 08:53:46 AM »

Quote from: GoinBrokeBahner on July 17, 2013, 06:40:31 PM

Thank you!

I put my valves about 3 inches off the 90 on the tank and just spliced it into the rubber line, I didn't want to worry about my tank cracking because of the added weight hanging off the 90. I pull from both tanks all the time but I adjusted one of the valves so they pull pretty evenly

« **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2013, 09:48:54 AM »

Quote from: SoCalPSD on July 18, 2013, 08:53:46 AM

I put my valves about 3 inches off the 90 on the tank and just spliced it into the rubber line, I didn't want to worry about my tank cracking because of the added weight hanging off the 90. I pull from both tanks all the time but I adjusted one of the valves so they pull pretty evenly

Cool, thanks

« **Reply #23 on:** July 18, 2013, 09:50:12 AM »

I ran all braided line -10. Even the pickup tubes were ¾” inside diameter. I did a whole post here about tanks and pickup tubes somewhere on here. When I was inspected here in CT. at a lake (in the parking lot prior to launch), the woman inspecting had no idea what she was looking at. She even asked if the hoses were USCG approved. I said no, but NHRA approved. She had no clue. I also made a balance tube for my tanks cause I was running EFI and the return would cause havoc if I did not have the tanks balanced out.

« **Reply #24 on:** July 18, 2013, 12:03:20 PM »

Quote from: TJS Nordic on July 18, 2013, 09:50:12 AM

I ran all braided line -10. Even the pickup tubes were ¾” inside diameter. I did a whole post here about tanks and pickup tubes somewhere on here. When I was inspected here in CT. at a lake (in the parking lot prior to launch), the woman inspecting had no idea what she was looking at. She even asked if the hoses were USCG approved. I said no, but NHRA approved. She had no clue. I also made a balance tube for my tanks cause I was running EFI and the return would cause havoc if I did not have the tanks balanced out.

NHRA approved. ....... lololol. love it.

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mash on it

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