The gate valve was frozen I couldn't open it, it was set to run at the river needles area with cold water and now I run it at Elsinore and other local lakes too and it gets real warm while idling the no wake Zones


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The gate valve was frozen I couldn't open it, it was set to run at the river needles area with cold water and now I run it at Elsinore and other local lakes too and it gets real warm while idling the no wake Zones


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IMHO you should have installed another gate valve. For the record, the hole in the fitting coming from a factory Berkeley hose fitting is only a little over a 1/4" in diameter, you just made it over a half an inch, that has the flow capacity of almost 6 times....

GT

If you wouldn't mind giving me a call
(562) 277 3431 or explain alittle further in what you mean about my set up, I copied exactly what was on it before except used a ball valve and I haven't set it where it goes yet waiting to get in on the water. But if a gate valve is a better approach I'm totally open to that, I just want to be able to open it all the way up if I'm cruising thru a channel or something.

If some other people have some other ideas?


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The gate valve that was on there is pretty much a set it and forget it deal...

The ball valves biggest issue (again IMHO) is the lack of adjust-ability on the extreme low end of the flow requirement.

If you are trying to control the engine temperature to be constant at all times, I am afraid you are totally wasting your time.

Proper water flow setting is tricky for some folks.

There are a dozen plus threads on this very subject, but here are the highlights.

The water temps on most jets with the open type cooling systems like you have will run at idle about 150*F, then at higher RPM will typically drop to about 120* or even below.

The valve is there to reduce and adjust flow, which, despite what many will tell you, will reduce the overall pressure. If you run that valve at 100% open at anything over a fast idle, you will more than likely blow an intake gasket and fil the engine full of water on the oil side.

The typical Berkeley jet pump can move enough water to support 2,000 HP+, so to say you do not need to reduce the flow by a lot is ludicrous.

The gate valve has the advantage of the ability of being adjusted between 0% and 100% in tiny little increments. It is also equipped with a packing nut that can be tightened to keep it in place.

A ball valve adjustment is not "linear", meaning the valve from 90 degrees (closed) to approximately 75 degrees could very well still be totally closed. Adversely the ball valve is virtually "wide open" from about 40 degrees all the way to 0 degrees. This means you really only have 35 degrees of valve stem motion to play with...

For an idea of how little that is...




Versus the 3,600 (not a typo) degrees of the ten turn gate valve...

Make sense?

GT

Yes it does and I'll switch it back to a new gate valve, I just want to be able to set and leave it, but also be able to open it quickly if I know I'm going to be idling for a while. IE going thru the channel or at pirates where the water is in the 80's and my temp starts heading north of 200, thank you for the advice I think the best way will be to count the turns from closed to where I set it so I can return it to where my "normal" running position is.


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A properly set up system should be able to idle until you run out of gas.... Literally hundreds of hours. They typically get to about 150 degrees and stabilize.

GT

Nice. Did the same yesterday. Was gonna do some work on the money Pit today but I felt lazy.

Pics???

Milked the oil on mine today, motors coming out tomorrow. Round 4 lol


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Call me.....

Trying to polish up my bullnose tips they are really bad. I'm using terry clothes and bras so any suggestions so it's kind of working

I got hooked up Got a early dominator bowl, thanks Jake, took it to Tim at Place, and he machined the outlet to match the droop that I got from him also. He also machined my nozzle for the FTN inserts, which he gave me to see which one would work better, (fine tune ). Got the ride plate, steering extension, all the stainless hardware, everything   To top it off, Tim also traded me my transom adapter, for one that had been already been machined out and powdercoated for the slightly bigger diameter dom bowl. Going to Mac this weekend to install   Thanks Tim, @ Place diverter and controls

Trying to polish up my bullnose tips they are really bad. I'm using terry clothes and bras so any suggestions so it's kind of working

I use white/clear vinegar right after I get off water. Have used it days later with same results though. Gets most water stains right off.

Worked on getting 2 different diameter bimini frames to work as 1. I'll try it on tomorrow and post a pic. Found the pin hole leak in my fuel tank and pushed my thumb through it, so it will be a bigger patch than I originally thought.


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jelly   Didn't need a new bowl, I have a JC pump which is not a split bowl. I wanted to put a split bowl on so I could put a droop on and I already had a hyd PD on it.

Seems the more I work on mine, the more shit I need to do to it....
I'm over boats.


-beerjet-