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Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Trailer Brakes
« on: May 06, 2009, 05:42:29 PM »
The Buena Vista trip is coming up in a little over 2 weeks and the brakes on the trailer dont work...i'd like to get them working before this trip and maybe go through the bearings while im at it too since its over 600 miles round trip.

when i hit the brakes, you can feel the hitch pivot and clunk, but nothing happens. when i back up, it goes into a fully pivoted position making it impossible to un-hitch it. i have to block off the wheels and move the truck forward a couple of inches.

from what i can tell, its a hydrolic system with drum brakes on the rear axles only. Whats the chances im going to find parts for it? i figure its not going to be easy sicne i dont have a car year/make/model to give the idiot behind the parts counter to look up in his computer. At this point, im banking on being able to look up part numbers on the internet. Who knows, maybe it just need some brake fluid.

Its a Road Runner trailer...made in the late 70s

Heres some pics of what im dealing with on this project.









  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
  • Boat #2: 1982 Eliminator Sprint
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Baja and Bust

  • Karma: +2/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2009, 06:02:06 PM »
Got the same tongue on mine.  As far as I can tell, it feels like the brakes are working fine, but have the same problem when I back it into position (doesn't want to release until I block the wheels and pull forward).  I do know these systems are called "surge brakes" and are designed to start working when the trailer pushes forward on the tongue like we know it is.  I'm guessing maybe the drum brakes could just use to be adjusted and fluid levels topped off.  Just my .02

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"If your outgo exceeds your income, then your upkeep is your downfall."

Don't forget to practice your seven "P's"...

Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2009, 06:09:46 PM »
Brad, that is an Attwood surge brake actuater and backing plates, replace the master cylinder and by complete backing plate assemblies to replace the old.

The actuater is a servicable item and a 20 min. deal to replace...The brake shoes if your're on a budget are from a '60's 9" Ford mustang rear drum setup, the wheel cylinder is special for a trailer (one sided).

I always buy the whole backing plate for the first time, then build the ones I took off to "rotate", that way you always have a spare....

You can do the whole system for under $175 including the fluid, which BTW flush everything out and use silicone fluid (called DOT 5) it will last virtually forever and repels water, DOT 3 is made of alcohol and absorbs water like a friggen sponge.....

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2009, 06:35:05 PM »
so i took the dog for the walk and started thinkin about it and got anxious to tear into it.

took the resivor cap off....its empty and rusted BAD.





then i got to reading the stampings on the housing.....'use dot 3 fluid'....'max tow load...' blah blah blah.....bingo 'read owners manual'! i forgot i had all that original paperwork i found under the seat.

wallah....



meh....lots of useful information here.  ::)



took off the rear access pannel...not much to see there...



thanks for the info GT....let me know where i might be able to find the accuater, master cyl, resevor, etc for this bitch.
  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
  • Boat #2: 1982 Eliminator Sprint
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Luckie Stiff

  • Karma: +29/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2009, 06:49:25 PM »
I really wouldn't worry about the brakes Brad, it's a 3000 pound load, not a 40' toy hauler. Your truck will stop it just fine, drive it in tow/haul mode and you'll be a lot happier.
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"Don't you realize that there are already enough people in the world to hate without you putting so much effort into giving me another?"

Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2009, 06:53:50 PM »
I really wouldn't worry about the brakes Brad, it's a 3000 pound load, not a 40' toy hauler. Your truck will stop it just fine, drive it in tow/haul mode and you'll be a lot happier.

skip, im not worried about stopping...its the fact the hitch is pivoting violently forward when i apply the brakes...hard or gently. i can see it in my head wanting to roll right off the ball into the bed of my truck. its a little nerve racking.
  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
  • Boat #2: 1982 Eliminator Sprint
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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2009, 06:54:48 PM »
You be needin';

p/n 79281....cap, providing yours still has the threads in the hole. :sly:
p/n 34384....cylinder kit (cylinder only, comes with a new gasket)
p/n 56901....L+R backing plates in galvanized steel, you can rebuild your old ones later...this is a cheap way to go.

Pick up a quart of denatured alcohol and flush out the lines, you can "bleed" the brakes using a ball mount in the coupler and use it to actuate the brakes (I use a power bleeder).

I don't care what the manual says, use DOT 5 fluid.... :sly:



http://www.go-marine.com/coast/do/catalog/page?dealerId=2366&pageNum=158


Orlandi Trailer are really cool people, been dealing with them for 15+ years.

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2009, 07:05:39 PM »
Thanks GT for the info...i get to orderin..

this is what it looks like when its fully engaged...since theres no fluid in it, theres not much resistance at all from keeping it going this far over.

  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
  • Boat #2: 1982 Eliminator Sprint
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SnoC653

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2009, 10:33:54 PM »
Before you get all the new parts on it, try putting some fluid in the old master cylinder and see if it has a line that is leaking.  While DOT 3 draws water like a sponge it usually doesn't just evaporate.  If the master is empty then you most likely have a leak somewhere.  Check it with the old stuff so you'll know if you need new lines.  Lots of camper repair places still sell all the parts for those brake systems. 
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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2009, 10:38:22 PM »
Before you get all the new parts on it, try putting some fluid in the old master cylinder and see if it has a line that is leaking.  While DOT 3 draws water like a sponge it usually doesn't just evaporate.  If the master is empty then you most likely have a leak somewhere.  Check it with the old stuff so you'll know if you need new lines.  Lots of camper repair places still sell all the parts for those brake systems. 

Works about 1 in 1000 times, you feeling lucky punk!  LOL :D

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

povertyjet

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2009, 04:22:35 AM »
Brad, do yourself a favor, cut that hunk of sh*t off the 3" tube and get the entire new actuator.  I tried to "restore" my old Trailrite with that exact actuator set-up that did exactly what yours is doing, and trust me, the headaches you will avoid will offset the additional cost.  Drill the 4 holes and It will bolt back onto the tube, or weld the new one on.  Also forget trying to flush the old lines, get the flex hose kit.  It is so easy to install.  If your master cylinder looks that bad, the lines will be worse...or like Skip said, you could just weld a new hitch onto the 3" tube and forget the brakes.

p-jet



 
  • Boat #1: '73 Kona
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[smg id=6256]
I'll keep my freedom, my money and my guns...you keep the "change"
U.S. out of the United Nations, support HR2202, reinstate prop 187, waterboard all of them!!!

Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2009, 06:17:53 AM »
Brad, do yourself a favor, cut that hunk of sh*t off the 3" tube and get the entire new actuator.  I tried to "restore" my old Trailrite with that exact actuator set-up that did exactly what yours is doing, and trust me, the headaches you will avoid will offset the additional cost.  Drill the 4 holes and It will bolt back onto the tube, or weld the new one on.  Also forget trying to flush the old lines, get the flex hose kit.  It is so easy to install.  If your master cylinder looks that bad, the lines will be worse...or like Skip said, you could just weld a new hitch onto the 3" tube and forget the brakes.

p-jet


after pricing out the parts and weighing in the hassle, youre right....i can get a complete one for about $140

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4427&categoryID=150

I am unable to find a flex hose kit....everything ive seen is hardline kits....post up a link of what you are talkin about. thanks!
  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
  • Boat #2: 1982 Eliminator Sprint
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OC2Vegas

  • Karma: +12/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2009, 08:51:40 AM »
Running hardline is not that difficult. The flaring tools and connectors are available at most auto parts stores and fairly cheap. I dont think I have ever seen a "Flex" brake line, You actually dont want the line to "Flex".

Unless your talking about a stainless brake line kit?
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1979 Sanger Superjet
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beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #13 on: May 07, 2009, 07:46:32 PM »
The damper is what absorbs the load as you stop and take off.
You can see it off to the right side.


-beerjet-
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i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

povertyjet

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer Brakes
« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2009, 08:50:55 PM »
after pricing out the parts and weighing in the hassle, youre right....i can get a complete one for about $140

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4427&categoryID=150

I am unable to find a flex hose kit....everything ive seen is hardline kits....post up a link of what you are talkin about. thanks!



Dead center of the page

http://www.go-marine.com/coast/do/catalog/page?dealerId=2366&pageNum=158

p-jet
  • Boat #1: '73 Kona
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[smg id=6256]
I'll keep my freedom, my money and my guns...you keep the "change"
U.S. out of the United Nations, support HR2202, reinstate prop 187, waterboard all of them!!!

 


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