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aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Seagoing epoxy question
« on: March 10, 2017, 04:47:47 PM »
So I've never used seagoing epoxy,  but I hear you guys talking about it and it seams to be some bulletproof stuff..  It's being recommended to me to use to set my new strut under my boat,  my concern is I recessed my new strut flush into the Hull,  so if anything were to happen that I had to remove the strut how tuff would it be to remove being I wouldn't have access to cut the epoxy??  Should I be concerned about this or not?? 

your friendly local v-drive owner

  • Boat #1: 72 aquacraft flatty v-drive
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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2017, 05:09:52 PM »
So I've never used seagoing epoxy,  but I hear you guys talking about it and it seams to be some bulletproof stuff..  It's being recommended to me to use to set my new strut under my boat,  my concern is I recessed my new strut flush into the Hull,  so if anything were to happen that I had to remove the strut how tuff would it be to remove being I wouldn't have access to cut the epoxy??  Should I be concerned about this or not?? 

your friendly local v-drive owner
How many bolts hold the strut?

Is it backed up by a plate?

Sea Going Poxy Putty has two densities.

Regular and high strength.

I would use the regular. It sticks pretty good, heat will be required to break the bond.

3M 5200 adheres much stronger, but checks and dries out where exposed.

One way to prevent it from sticking to week is to make one surface or the other polish smooth. Rough up the other. The epoxy will remain on the rough side. The idea behind the epoxy is to smooth out the harsh edges not shrink or dry up.

When we do the tournament boats we use Sea Going and I spray the bottom of the boat with PVA mold release before installing the struts and skegs. This way they can be removed without hull damage. These are six bolt bronze struts with a plate on top.

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2017, 05:13:34 PM »
How many bolts hold the strut?

Is it backed up by a plate?

Sea Going Poxy Putty has two densities.

Regular and high strength.

I would use the regular. It sticks pretty good, heat will be required to break the bond.

3M 5200 adheres much stronger, but checks and dries out where exposed.

One way to prevent it from sticking to week is to make one surface or the other polish smooth. Rough up the other. The epoxy will remain on the rough side. The idea behind the epoxy is to smooth out the harsh edges not shrink or dry up.

When we do the tournament boats we use Sea Going and I spray the bottom of the boat with PVA mold release before installing the struts and skegs. This way they can be removed without hull damage. These are six bolt bronze struts with a plate on top.

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
8 bolts hold the strut, I made a new top plate out of ¼ 6061 and I'm bracing that with 2 strut braces,  using all 8 strut bolts..

your friendly local v-drive owner

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aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2017, 05:13:56 PM »
Strut is steel..

your friendly local v-drive owner

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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2017, 06:21:45 PM »
8 bolts hold the strut, I made a new top plate out of ¼ 6061 and I'm bracing that with 2 strut braces,  using all 8 strut bolts..

your friendly local v-drive owner
I would mold release it. Spray the hull area, epoxy over that, mount the strut with a little 5200 on each bolt.

If and when you go to remove it, you will find it will pop off the hull, leaving a surface you can wash with soap and water.

This way you can spend some time cleaning up the strut on the work bench instead of lying on your back cleaning the hull.

Just what I would do.

You do you.

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2017, 07:35:05 PM »
You don't want it to pop off!  It will do that on its own.

When you go to remove it, heat the strut brace evenly, all around the base.  Use a piece of sheet metal as a heat shield to protect the surrounding glass.

Keep the torch moving around until you see the epoxy starting to smoke.  It should be hot enough to sizzle water.  You don't need to get the strut red hot.  Probably around 300 degrees F.

The epoxy will soften when hot and the bond will temporarily weaken.

Once you get the strut off, use a wood chisel to scrape the remaining epoxy off of the hull first, then the strut.  This saves a lot of grinding after the epoxy cools.
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Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2017, 08:12:48 PM »
We spend a lot of time detailing bottoms with every jet install.  I have only worked on a few V-drives, and never a strut.

If your V-drive guy didn't give you specific instructions, I have a few thoughts:

When you are setting the strut, some epoxy will ooze out.  It is easier to scrape the excess before it hardens than it is to sand it off later.  A few minutes of scraping before it cures will save you hours of sanding on your back.

Mix a little more epoxy than what you will need.  Fill all of the voids between the strut base and glass so that it can be blended smooth.

You can manipulate the epoxy with wet fingers and it cleans up easily with a wet rag.  Beware, water will make it kick faster.

If you are working under the boat, beware, it will sag.  If you have a thick cross-section, such as in the front of a jet intake, it looks perfect when you walk away.  Come back a few hours later and it has run down the street and robbed the liquor store.

The flats that I have been involved with, the strut bolts were not epoxyed in.  I would assume because you have to check the torque on a regular basis.  It's probably not a good idea to epoxy over the heads of the bolts like we do on the jet intakes.

Bottom line, it won't hurt anything to blend it for reduced drag.  Afterwards, give it a coat of primer and some bodyman-in-a-can.  Then lightly sand it front to back with 80 grit.
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aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2017, 10:17:09 PM »
Does anyone sell the epoxy local??

your friendly local v-drive owner

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aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2017, 04:44:04 AM »
So again with my question why now should my strut have to be set with cement?  This will be my 3rd strut on my boat, last 2 all set with commercial silicon,  and they had to be pryed off the bottom of the boat, even the one that ran shallow and got bent never came off or leaked... Clearly 2 different approaches with GT and FLUSHER,  I completely respect both of your opinions..  You guys have to much knowledge for your own good.. 

your friendly local v-drive owner

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GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2017, 08:49:25 AM »
It's my opinion that using 5200 or Sea Going is too sticky and can damage the hull bottom.

The main reason to use the epoxy for me is that it creates a perfect mate between the two surfaces and maximises surface contact. You don't need the adhesion. With an eight bolt strut, the strength comes from the bolts and sandwich. As it stands, if it failed, it's going to pull a chunk from the bottom the size of your head.....

Using the PVA on the hull will still allow it to stick, leave enough clean fiberglass to get the perimeter to seal up, 1/4" is more than enough. This will create a perfect seal.....

That's just what we did on the tournament boats (v-drives and inboards alike) because the bottoms normally got dicked up when removing a damaged strut.

GT

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« Last Edit: March 11, 2017, 09:19:10 AM by GT Jets »
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

aquaholic72

  • Karma: +54/-0
Re: Seagoing epoxy question
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2017, 11:41:50 PM »
Thanks for all the info gentleman.. Much appreciated. 👍👍

your friendly local v-drive owner

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