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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #25 on: October 27, 2014, 04:20:36 PM »
Doable..... if anyone wanted that style....
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East County Kona

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2014, 05:44:55 PM »

I have this style now


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This one could be cool, since single carb set ups are becoming a little more legit the last few years


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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #27 on: October 27, 2014, 05:59:09 PM »
If any 1 wants to copy it they can  I can make the trays


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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #28 on: October 27, 2014, 06:55:09 PM »
Any interest in that style?
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Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #29 on: October 27, 2014, 11:07:15 PM »
What are your thoughts about shaping your own unique style from foam?  Foam blocks compatible with polyester resin are available from fiberglast.com or you can cast your own from 2-part foam, shaped, coated with latex, and laminated.
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"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

East County Kona

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #30 on: October 28, 2014, 12:11:53 AM »

What are your thoughts about shaping your own unique style from foam?  Foam blocks compatible with polyester resin are available from fiberglast.com or you can cast your own from 2-part foam, shaped, coated with latex, and laminated.

Kind of dig that idea, put something new out. Maybe go a little crazy multiple inlet holes, mold some skulls or faces in too? Get nuts with it.


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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #31 on: October 28, 2014, 05:43:31 AM »
My pants just got tight  >:D

I'm totally down!  Is there some science behind the scoop? Meaning does it ram air in Carb at speed...but more so for looks?

I'll see about sketching something.  However,  I'd need tray dimensions... I don't have a scoop so it would be a guess for me to come up with tray size....for dual or single carbs.
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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #32 on: October 28, 2014, 06:30:13 AM »
Make the scoop and I can make the tray  to what ever size  u need


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riptide84

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #33 on: October 28, 2014, 09:16:35 AM »
Those scoops are all pretty cool. I personally am only looking for the Comp 1 drag scoop style. I also have a formula 5000 style scoop if someone wants that style. This is my scoop I have now
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berkbryan

  • Karma: +3/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #34 on: October 28, 2014, 10:16:15 AM »
Those scoops are all pretty cool. I personally am only looking for the Comp 1 drag scoop style. I also have a formula 5000 style scoop if someone wants that style. This is my scoop I have now
I like that style best

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riptide84

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #35 on: October 28, 2014, 10:30:43 AM »
I like that style best

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I like it too. I'm just not sure if my current scoop will look good on the new deal I'm building. I want to color match the scoop to the boat and I have a feeling the shape of the scoop will distort the design..
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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #36 on: October 28, 2014, 10:31:10 AM »
U can get the formula 5000 scoop for $119  off line take 2 weeks to make


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riptide84

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #37 on: October 28, 2014, 10:31:59 AM »
U can get the formula 5000 scoop for $119  off line take 2 weeks to make


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I have that scoop right now.
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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #38 on: October 28, 2014, 10:32:16 AM »
Scoop


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Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #39 on: October 28, 2014, 02:42:15 PM »
My pants just got tight  >:D

I'm totally down!  Is there some science behind the scoop? Meaning does it ram air in Carb at speed...but more so for looks?

Yes, there is a lot of science and development that goes into a properly functioning scoop.

According to Bauman; Chrysler induction expert who developed the Pro Stock style scoop (of which there have been very few changes), back in the early 1970s:

1.  One basic function of a scoop is to have air forced into the carburetor without restriction.
    1.1A forward facing opening measuring 30 square inches is an important consideration.
        1.1.1  A larger opening area helps at low speed.
        1.1.2  A smaller opening helps at high speed.

2.  Location of the scoop relative to the carburetors
    2.1  It is very important that the carbs be depressed .50 to .75 inches below the scoop opening
    2.2  The front carb should be located 4.5 to 5.0 inches behind the opening.

3.  Functioning and testing of a scoop.
    3.1  A drag car with a properly functioning scoop should be 1 to 1.5 MPH faster.
    3.2  Adding a scoop to a carburetor system leans out the carburetor approximately 3 jet sizes.
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Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #40 on: October 28, 2014, 02:46:33 PM »
From Mopar Chassis: Speed Secrets & Performance Modifications for Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge RWD Racing Cars 9th Edition
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"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #41 on: October 28, 2014, 02:51:31 PM »
According to Carroll Smith, author of Prepare To Win, Tune To Win, and Engineer To Win:

A properly designed air box (scoop) can do several things:
1.  Increase engine power by increasing the flow of air through the engine and by providing the coolest available air to the engine.
2.  Even out the distribution of air to the intake stacks.

Functional air boxes of the early Formula One Teams all had very large intakes, complete with generous radii. The intakes invariably lived well up in the breeze -- just behind and over the driver’s head.  The inlets fed large diffusers which also served as plenums, and bases of the diffusers were sealed to the intake stacks.  The outside shape was carefully sculpted to reduce drag.

So what is actually required to make an air box work -- and why do so many of them not work?

First, the intake must have enough area to get a sufficient volume of air to the engine at low speed when the ram doesn’t work.  Remember that airflow into the box varies with speed while air required by the engine varies with RPM.  We’re not trying to ram at low speeds -- we are merely trying to avoid choking the engine.  A large enough inlet for low speeds probably means that we will over ram at high speed.  The most common method of dealing with this situation is to depend upon leakage between the plenum base and intake stacks or on small bleed holes in the plenum.  Along these lines, it is absolutely necessary, if you are using carbs, to make sure that the float chambers are seeing the plenum pressure.  Otherwise your mixture strength is going to be off.  If the air box is really working it will also be necessary to supply more fuel to the engine or you will run lean -- maybe even enough to burn a piston.

Next the edges of the intake opening must be well radiused to avoid partially stalling the inlet air.  The intake must be so located that it cannot be blanked out by some other part of the vehicle (or driver).  It must also be served by high energy air which means out in the free airstreem for a ram duct.

The purpose of the diffuser/plenum is to persuade the airflow to turn ninety degrees as smoothly as possible and to provide an expanding chamber in which the velocity component of the airstream energy will be converted to pressure which will be equal at each intake stack.  We also have to avoid turbulence at any of the intakes (venturi).

Theoretically the plenum should clear all of the intake stacks (venturi) by at least 1/2 diameter and a full diameter would be better.  This is sometimes a bit difficult to achieve.  It is probably more important to get the shape right and to keep the last six to eight inches of the vertical walls vertical.  There is a theory that the stacks should extend into the plenum chamber to minimize turbulence but it doesn’t seem to make any practical difference.

Speaking of inlet stacks, any basic air conditioning book informs us that for maximum undisturbed flow the lip of an inlet stack should have a full radius.

The outside shape of the air box is a question of minimizing drag.  You should make certain that the whole thing is securely enough attached that there is no possibility at all of its coming off.

Assigning some basic numbers to the features under discussion:

Intake Ram (PSI) = (Air Density (lb/ft^3) * (Air Velocity in FPS) ^2) / 288g

At 80 MPH

Intake Ram = (.076 * (118)^2) / (288 * 32.2) = .11 lb/in^2

At 160 MPH

Intake Ram = (.076 * (235)^2) / (288 * 32.2) = .45 lb/in^2

In both cases we have assumed a 100% efficient duct, which is not possible -- 75% efficient would be a good one.  So the figures become .083 and .34 respectively.  They don’t sound like much -- and they aren’t -- in the quantitative sense.  But a gain of .34PSI inlet pressure is a percentage gain of 2.3% over standard atmospheric pressure -- which is worth talking about.

The largest gain in engine performance, however, will come from the even distribution of inlet air to the individual intake stacks (venturi) that is provided by a well designed and efficient plenum.

My last work in airboxes is that they work.  They work on any type of race car and they work with either carburetors or fuel injection.  They only work if they are correctly designed.  It is worth taking the time and trouble to make a good one.
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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #42 on: October 28, 2014, 02:52:32 PM »
Yes, there is a lot of science and development that goes into a properly functioning scoop.

According to Bauman; Chrysler induction expert who developed the Pro Stock style scoop (of which there have been very few changes), back in the early 1970s:

1.  One basic function of a scoop is to have air forced into the carburetor without restriction.
    1.1A forward facing opening measuring 30 square inches is an important consideration.
        1.1.1  A larger opening area helps at low speed.
        1.1.2  A smaller opening helps at high speed.

2.  Location of the scoop relative to the carburetors
    2.1  It is very important that the carbs be depressed .50 to .75 inches below the scoop opening
    2.2  The front carb should be located 4.5 to 5.0 inches behind the opening.

3.  Functioning and testing of a scoop.
    3.1  A drag car with a properly functioning scoop should be 1 to 1.5 MPH faster.
    3.2  Adding a scoop to a carburetor system leans out the carburetor approximately 3 jet sizes.


right.... :-\ thats why duplicating existing is simpler.  i can make a custom scoop....but it may not be performance beneficial.

these measurements help narrow things down...im sure there more to it than this....hmmm.....pants are loose again....
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Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #43 on: October 28, 2014, 02:53:40 PM »
Tune To Win
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"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #44 on: October 28, 2014, 03:14:52 PM »
Tune To Win

i can understand those drawings.  well....if anyone is looking to have performance suffer, but have a kick ass scoop..... :screwy: ::) 
seriously....some engineering required....or i can maybe make a cover that attaches to your current scoop...so it looks different....but functions as usual.
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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #45 on: October 28, 2014, 03:48:33 PM »
I pretty sure if cuppa the existing scoop it will work just fine


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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #46 on: October 28, 2014, 07:56:03 PM »
I pretty sure if cuppa the existing scoop it will work just fine


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i take it you meant cover*....or copied?

hmm....
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lifted250

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #47 on: October 28, 2014, 08:19:41 PM »
Yes copy


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JARVIS

  • Karma: +18/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #48 on: October 28, 2014, 08:46:07 PM »
then true....the copied version would work as good as its original.

has anyone noticed any improvements when first installing their scoop?  did they have to jet accordingly?  or plug n play?
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19Haskell82

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Different fiberglass scoop
« Reply #49 on: October 29, 2014, 12:17:56 PM »
Ebay item 141452594822 .... 150$ already body work done and painted

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