Caribbean

« **Reply #75 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:32:05 PM »

Quote from: Luckie Stiff on February 23, 2009, 07:30:29 PM

I didn't use anything other than standard wire from NAPA, I shrink wrapped everything and used dielectric grease at all points of contact, never heard of marine grade wire

Agreed , it will never see the salty water so no reason for marine grade

Marine grade = Lots o $$$$$$$

« **Reply #76 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:46:59 PM »

Me either, Marine Grade? What's that, wire that's been sank before? Either it's insulated or not, and the dielectric strength of the insulation is set up for DC or AC voltages/current. That's as much as I have ever heard of wire ratings.

Did the Coast Guard find another way to make a buck sanctioning wire that I am unaware of?

Ray

« **Reply #77 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:51:07 PM »

Yep it is a little more money, but IMHO it is the right way. And it is required for new boats...saltwater or not, ALL boats are a wet environments. Moisture wicks up the wire inside the insulation causing the copper to breakdown. Marine wire is tinned and will not corrode (green powdery residue form copper degradation). Marine grade wire has many more strands than automotive stranded wire. When I counted, the automotive 14 gauge wire had 17 strands, and the marine grade wire had something like 35 or 40, I lost count. This is important because more strands means the wire is more flexible, and can carry a greater electrical load than the same gauge auto wire. Look at any boat new or old, being professionally rigged, it's marine grade...

thanks for letting me share

« **Reply #78 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:02:26 PM »

Gonna chime in here, marine grade wire is she shizzle, but IMHO overrated for our uses in a rarely used jetboat. The advantages are that the wire will not degrade in wet environments, FWIW, my jetboat is in 100* weather and dry as a bone 80% of its existance, otherwise covered and in a garage, if the boat was either in the water for months at a time or built to last 50 years the story would be a little different, the wireing is only as good as the terminals used anyways, you can use marine wire and cheap terminals and been better off with the cheap wire...The tinned wire requires special terminals with the built in heat shrink tube to be done right, by the time your done with the electrical job, you would have spent at least three times more dough, which none of us have to begin with...Just my .02c

BTW, I have built over a dozen boats in the last 15 years and have used marine wire, I have also used automotive grade, I am betting you could not tell the difference

GT

« **Reply #79 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:19:35 PM »

OK , Thread jacking you for a moment Steve, sorry

I get the strands thing. The same reason Monster cable costs 10 times more than generic Radio Shack crap. Cannot carry more load, just a more stable one. 8 Guage wire carries what 8 guage wire carries. I don't care how many strands there are. Like the main difference betweeen 8 guage and 8 guage THHN is the insulation. Both have the same amount of copper. We ain't pulling 4x4's out of the mud here.

From a different standpoint tho,more, smaller strands means more exposed surface area for oxidation. Basic physics.

But, well, OK, I'll toss it out there. If Water, salt water in particular, needs the stuff, the what about all the multi-million dollar Malibu beachfront homes. Do THEY require this wire? and they get more salt spray and moisture than a weekend boat does in two seasons. lol ......I'd even be willing to bet that the wiring in my car under the hood sees more water, and I live in the desert, than any boat I own's wiring will ever see.

ALL COPPER oxidizes and patinas. The only way to slow it is to insulate it. Where you make the connections, that's where it starts, and I get that. The shrink tubing, etc. are only solution. Still needs maintenance, meaning, inspection and checks for corrosion, cause it's still gonna corrode no matter what you do. All you can do is slow it down.

That's all I have to say about that, lol

Ray

I lied, I do, lol, Steve and I live in Arizona. Park rangers and County Sherrif's can't even spell marine, so we b ok regardless, lol.

« **Reply #80 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:32:35 PM »

I should be working on my boat. But I'm following Beerjet's example and taking a beer break. Sorry for that

Ray

« **Reply #81 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:43:46 PM »

By the way Steve it's looking good.

« **Reply #82 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:36:23 PM »

Got some more parts today, my new scoop mount, fuel log and guage

And my new to me Bassett mufflers thanks to Widowmaker on PB

Now im back to the same problem and have another to add to my list

I cant get around it, i have to buy another pedal. Pull style i think i will give Tom a call.......

And now my new fuel log hits the scoop mount. the onluy thing i can think of is to use the "Bulkhead 90 and "t" to give me a little longer reach

See what i mean......... Just means i have to spend MORE money to make it right.....

« **Reply #83 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:45:00 PM »

Looking good Steve! My what a lot of progress working on someone elses boat!

Oh and I think I found your 5/16" wrench and the nut you dropped. It's under the air gap runners to #6 and #8 cylinders unless your pic is backwards to me. (Could be, cux it looks like the dizzy is on the back too).

Ray

« **Reply #84 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:49:30 PM »

Quote from: IRRebel on February 26, 2009, 02:45:00 PM

Looking good Steve! My what a lot of progress working on someone elses boat!

Oh and I think I found your 5/16" wrench and the nut you dropped. It's under the air gap runners to #6 and #8 cylinders unless your pic is backwards to me. (Could be, cux it looks like the dizzy is on the back too).

Ray

Thats where i store my tools and make grilled cheese sandwiches

« **Reply #85 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:50:19 PM »

Why dont you just flip your plate , front over the back?

-beerjet-

« **Reply #86 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:55:14 PM »

Quote

Why dont you just flip your plate , front over the back?

And then, a very reasonable solution presents itself. Good work Omar! Looks like it'd work to me from the pics as well. Dunno how good the carb and scoop will work under the air gap, but the fuel line will fit!

Ray

« **Reply #87 on:** February 26, 2009, 02:56:45 PM »

Thats how it was in my boat.
Cable up front .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #88 on:** February 26, 2009, 03:14:48 PM »

Quote from: beerjet on February 26, 2009, 02:50:19 PM

Why dont you just flip your plate , front over the back?

-beerjet-

It was made to mount this way and im going to mount it that way..

the holes for the scoop studs are recessed........ On the bottom

I need a new cable anyways might aswell get it all new. i just tried a bulkhead an fitting on the fuel log and it gives me plenty of room now. So i just have to order now..

i really wish this town had a better marine store available

« **Reply #89 on:** February 26, 2009, 05:57:06 PM »

Looks like you might need longer carb mounting studs while your ordering parts

Looks good, keep going and you'll be done soon.

« **Reply #90 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:02:35 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on February 26, 2009, 02:36:23 PM

See what i mean......... Just means i have to spend MORE money to make it right.....

Steve, take this for what it's worth but if you would just make up your fukcing mind and STICK with a choice, you'd have spent a couple of days in the water instead of fukcing with shit. I really want to see this boat hit the water, you're damn close, but you have to get stuck in and quit lollygaggin'

Skip

« **Reply #91 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:03:10 PM »

Quote from: crewchief22 on February 26, 2009, 05:57:06 PM

Looks like you might need longer carb mounting studs while your ordering parts

Looks good, keep going and you'll be done soon.

Longer carb studs is the one thing i have

Thanks

« **Reply #92 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:07:19 PM »

Quote from: Luckie Stiff on February 26, 2009, 06:02:35 PM

Steve, take this for what it's worth but if you would just make up your fukcing mind and STICK with a choice, you'd have spent a couple of days in the water instead of fukcing with shit. I really want to see this boat hit the water, you're damn close, but you have to get stuck in and quit lollygaggin'

Skip

Nice.....

« **Reply #93 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:07:40 PM »

I dont understand how swapping the return spring mount and the cable mount would make a diffrence on the scoop mounting holes

I'm not there either.

-beerjet-

« **Reply #94 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:21:58 PM »

Quote from: beerjet on February 26, 2009, 06:07:40 PM

I dont understand how swapping the return spring mount and the cable mount would make a diffrence on the scoop mounting holes
I'm not there either.

-beerjet-

I emailed Holley and asked if they have sometype of throttle bracket/extention and if not i will try to make one!!

I had one to use but with the scoop mount it wont work unless i grind some of the mount away ( not going to happen)

So tomorrow i will make a bracket then i will only need a cable should work fine and keep my pedal...... i guess i should stop posting here for help/ opinions cause then im only lollygagin

And yes nobody is here to see it in person and give advice. I will have it figured out tomorrow....

Thanks for everyones input...

now lets leave this alone cause im really getting pissed!!!!!!!!

« **Reply #95 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:24:03 PM »

Nevermind,

looks GREAT Steve, keep on keepin' on. You'll get there.

« **Reply #96 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:39:12 PM »

a wise man once told me something....

the more you spend, the worse it fits

words to live by.

« **Reply #97 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:45:42 PM »

WTF said that? musta been the guy who sold me the Milodon Oil pan! Played hell getting that thing on after $400.

Given that, from what I've seen, Steve, you're the Mcgyver of making things fit. Get out your cordless drill, a blender , "d" batteries, a tampon, and some weatherstrip adhesive and I'm sure you'll get this thing in the water.

Ray

« **Reply #98 on:** February 26, 2009, 06:52:44 PM »

proppy is done...its up to you and irrebel now...

« **Reply #99 on:** February 26, 2009, 07:00:12 PM »

Hey Steve,
You could relocate the one stud that is interfering and counter-sink the underside.

p-jet

2savage4you

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