I take no offense at all I like to here what the guys with knowledge have to say. I'm new to this so I have a lot to learn.

I didn't build the motor I paid to have it done an went way over budget and it didn't start when I picked it up that was dumb of me. When it was over heating the first time out he had no answear to why. just went off what the builder told me. I was told some stuff needed to be changed but will be fine for short term.

Soon I can get it someplace to tear down or I might just rent/ a picker and stand and go at it. No garage at my house so it's hard. Once I figure out the problem/problems I'll start ordering parts. Also replace parts that are on it that should be upgraded to the right parts

Just want to say thanks to in advance for the help




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Okay pics of the plugs, hope this helps


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Try and start at the beginning of the water supply back the ass in of the boat in the water disconnect the waterline to the motor and start it see if you have good water flow out of the pump then wrk your way forward assuming it's overheating cause of water related issues could have a clogged line


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Yah that's what I saw too. The plugs look like they have not been run. And that gap is way to wide!!! Well one good thing , no oil up there!!!


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Not sure what a heat ring is but I love the info thanks guys. I thought the gap for the plugs was big from when I rode dirt bikes.
I had an offer from a member to help also I can take it to a friends about 2 hours away can maybe pull it Sunday and flip it pull the pan.

I will continue to post pics any more things to look for?

Kyeah wish I had done it myself over a few months instated of paying a "mechanic/455guru" 3800 to put me further back than where I was.

Can't wait to learn hands on thanks again for the help guys

Alright so next Saturday we are pulling the motor and seeing what's up. Going to do it at a buddies out in Lancaster off like 140th and G6. Way out there but hell it's a garage not my driveway. If anyone out that way has nothing to do and wants to help or hang out I'll supply some cold ones.

Was going to pick up one of these unless people have had issues with them. Motor stand from pep boys http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/454717/00739

I will be posting tons of pics and tons and questions. Time to find a thread of tearing down a motor haha

Yeap every set of bolts is getting tagged and bagged and pic with what it cam off of. Gonna try and get some plastic bins to store stuff in as well. The stand says 1250lbs I believe.

Excited and nervous but can't wait to learn.

What are some good places to look for parts? Olds seem to be hard to find

I am now in the habit of replacing all the fasteners in engine stands, cherry pickers, etc. with Grade 8 or metric Class 10.9 fasteners including the appropriate grade/class of flat and lock washers.  I have had the original fasteners, particularly the split lock washers pushed out, causing lost tension and one of the casters almost folded.  To me, it is not worth the anxiety of losing an expensive engine because of cheap fasteners.

I would also emphasize that a big block Chevy with iron heads weighs about 850 pounds.  Make sure that all of the fasteners are tight.  I strongly recommend Oval Lock distorted-thread locknuts as engine stands and cherry pickers will be exposed to all forms of chemicals and lubricants.  Make sure that all bolts have at least 3 threads protruding from installed nuts or they will come loose.  Cheap insurance so that you don’t walk in one day and see your life’s savings on the ground next to a folded up engine stand.

Good luck,

Joe

I also have a stand you can use.

In my opinion, aluminum heads aren't worth the coin unless you need them.... And with an olds that is mildly built. I personally don't see a reason. I would get the heads you have and take them to clay smith and have them freshend up.

As far as olds parts goes. What all are you looking for?



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Google imco tanks thats the way  to go

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is it really the energy the plug exerts(spark energy)....or how much heat it can take/absorb and still stay in the optimal temp range for that particular engine??  just trying to gain knowledge...

It is a tricky question to answer... Basically a high heat range plug Disperses (or absorbs) less heat during combustion than one of a lower heat range.. Meaning the heat stays at the tip (or exerts more energy into the flame circle)... I hope that make sense...

I guess another way to try and explain it would be that the insulator eats up more energy on the colder plug "stealing" it, or "hiding" it from the combustion chamber.

The higher the heat range, the closer you get toward detonation when on the ragged edge.


GT

now im picking up what your laying down

thats just about what ive read on the matter as well....except the part about putting energy into the spark, but....i totally get what youre saying boss.  thanks man!

btw, is CJ comp jet?

Comp Jet.... Sometimes Crappy Jet... LOL Yes, it is the designation for the class of racing... You should look up JS... (Jersey Skiff) Those fukkers are nuts...



GT