What kind of intake are u using. If u are using a aftermarket intake u don't use the valley pan also u need to use gasket that blocks off your heat risers and use RTV around the water jackets only and let it sit for a bit before u put the intake back on. Once u have put the intake back on and tightened it down them let it sit for a day so all the RTV is dry.


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"the intakes a edelbeok torqer .n i did it sat for almost two day but thanks ill try n do it again.also i was doing some more research have you ever heard of dimpling the block n intake so that the rtv sticks beter . should i try n do this befor just for lil extra ins ?"

Dimpling the block won't hurt.  I've done with and without.  Make sure that you clean off all of the sealing surfaces on the block and intake real good with Scotch-brite and acetone.  RTV usually doesn't stick to itself very well if you're putting new stuff over old stuff. And (obviously) all of the oil needs to be off the surfaces.  Make sure your bead is tall enough to reach the bottom of the intake (plus some). 

hey mp im pretty sure im putting plunty of rtv on the surface . but when i do it again ill lay an extra thick n wipe up what oooooozzzeesss out but thanks guys ill try n play with it more tomrrow when i get a chance to play with it but thanks guys imma look over everything .anything else ishould look for our anything when im out there torrow .also if anyone you guys need a water pump cover let me know .sell it cheap n a set of i think theye 3 inc exhaust bells .thanks guys

I had a 455 in a kona I had I bought it with the intake off they said they said they dropped a bolt down the carb so they took it off so we put it back to gather and the gap on th back of the block was huge and some of the bolts on the intake all most needed to be reemed out it was a torker 455 intake It would blow oil out the back no matter what I did I came to the conclusion the heads where milled and the intake was not matched does it bolt up fine is it the same intake that was on before it leaked


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If you ditch the rubber end seals, don't use regular red, blue, or black RTV.  I would recomend using GMS (General Motors Sealant, or Chrysler Threebond)  They are assembly adhesives that will damn near seem as though you welded the two.  Biggest question is if the heads or deck were milled.  If so, then the intake must be milled to accomodate the change in angle/depth.  Mondello's book can tell you what the per .001" milling will change everything and where to take the measurement on the head to determine if they were milled any.  I have the book but it's not handy as I write this.