SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: coors909 on June 23, 2016, 11:56:25 AM
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If I install a rail kit on my boat would I need to get a new drive shaft? I have a 4 point mount right now.
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If I install a rail kit on my boat would I need to get a new drive shaft? I have a 4 point mount right now.
Sent from somewhere in Cali
No unless you are gonna move the motor forward or back for any reason, but would be smart to put a new set of u joints in while its out.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
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No unless you are gonna move the motor forward or back for any reason, but would be smart to put a new set of u joints in while its out.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
Ok thank you. Is there a better driveshaft. Where is a good place to get u joints?
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not to jack this thread, but I have to get an extended driveshaft. diameter mater of tubing?
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Ok thank you. Is there a better driveshaft. Where is a good place to get u joints?
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Depends oh what you have now, I run a 1350 style drive line u joint set which Is borderline overkill for my set up. A 1310 would be a step up from what you probably have. But more then likely what you have now is more then enough unless your up in the 7-800 hp range. And inland drive line, Je reel, and any 4x4 shop can get you the joints. Do not get the ones with zert fittings they tend to be a lil weaker.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
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not to jack this thread, but I have to get an extended driveshaft. diameter mater of tubing?
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I believe it all depends on what style joints you go with will determine the diameter of tubing
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
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I had a 1310 and for whatver reason it wouldnt fit the new engine. Had to take off 3/8.
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Depends oh what you have now, I run a 1350 style drive line u joint set which Is borderline overkill for my set up. A 1310 would be a step up from what you probably have. But more then likely what you have now is more then enough unless your up in the 7-800 hp range. And inland drive line, Je reel, and any 4x4 shop can get you the joints. Do not get the ones with zert fittings they tend to be a lil weaker.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
This is the one if have. Where is your 4x4 shop?
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This is the one if have. Where is your 4x4 shop?
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I usually go through inland drive line.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
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I have the same one. The u joints are very common. I got mine at NAPA. Ask for the good ones.
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I have the same one. The u joints are very common. I got mine at NAPA. Ask for the good ones.
What are the good ones?
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I usually go through inland drive line.
BECKY WITH THE GOOD HAIR!
Ok I will look them up
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Spicer
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Thank you
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If you're switching to a rail setup from 3 or 4 point, and you're replacing the u joints or whole double cardan joint, make sure before you set the system in stone that you measure and set the driveline angles. You'll prevent a major common vibration issue.
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If you're switching to a rail setup from 3 or 4 point, and you're replacing the u joints or whole double cardan joint, make sure before you set the system in stone that you measure and set the driveline angles. You'll prevent a major common vibration issue.
Ok. So before I buy new u joints set everything else up first and get everything the way I want it to look first?
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Buy the u-joints. But when you're setting the engine in, before you drill holes in the stringers, use an inclinometer to ensure you have at least 1/2 to one degree of working angle and that both joints are within 1 degree of each other.
Nothing would suck worse than do all this hard work, just to ride the water version of the Home Depot paint shaker.
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Buy the u-joints. But when you're setting the engine in, before you drill holes in the stringers, use an inclinometer to ensure you have at least 1/2 to one degree of working angle and that both joints are within 1 degree of each other.
Nothing would suck worse than do all this hard work, just to ride the water version of the Home Depot paint shaker.
Ok thank you. That's good to know.
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Inland driveline did mine for me
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Inland driveline did mine for me
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Looks good. Why did you have to extend it so much?
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Looks good. Why did you have to extend it so much?
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Excellent question , why did you move the engine so far forward?
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Excellent question , why did you move the engine so far forward?
Let me guess , you didn't move the motor forward , you moved the pump back?
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Inland driveline just put the new u joints in!
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Inland driveline did mine for me
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Sorry coors 909, should have been too B. CR 33 ch.
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Sorry coors 909, should have been too B. CR 33 ch.
pump is set back pretty far plus wanted to get the engine forward some
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I see it looks good. This my setup as of yesterday
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I see it looks good. This my setup as of yesterday
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Looks good. :thumbup:
...please remove the fire hazard paper filter and get a K&N.
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Looks good. :thumbup:
...please remove the fire hazard paper filter and get a K&N.
Thank you. That carb and filter are both not staying on the engine. They are just on it to keep stuff from falling down the intake!
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Nice!
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There's a great video that shows a demonstration of the importance of proper driveline phasing. www.macsmotorcitygarage/driveline (http://www.macsmotorcitygarage/driveline) phasing. Spicer (cardan joint mfg. co.) recommends up to 2 degrees of joint angle. There's also a very good discussion on the perf. boats site of this topic in the dyno section. It rather important to get it right. I hope this helps.
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How do I check the angle on the drive shaft?
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How do I check the angle on the drive shaft?
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Do you mean as it sits, or before you install it?
I am a big cheater. I made a rigid driveshsaft and basically have a pipe set up to go through a mock block. The rigid driveline is set up dead straight.
Once every thing is measured and marked, I raise the engine 1/4" front and back.
If you lay the driveline flat on a table, you can scribe a line across the joint caps. You can then use an angle finder to figure the offset using the center of the center yoke to figure each side. They MUST equal each other.
GT
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How do I check the angle on the drive shaft?
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depending on the style of assembly you are working with a digital level by crafstman, stanley, home depot etc. works quick and easily with reliable repeatability. I use a short piece of clean 2" steel tubing to raise the height of the level off the u-joint to provide clearance for the levels length if necessary.
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Ok thank you guys. It's already in the boat I will have to go buy the angle tool and check it. I had scribe marks on the shaft and we lined it up. Hopefully I got it right or the engine will be coming back out.
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Hey guys I need to make a new front engine mount to be able to get the angle right. I can't lower the front anymore was the problem. Does this sound right?
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Do you mean as it sits, or before you install it?
I am a big cheater. I made a rigid driveshsaft and basically have a pipe set up to go through a mock block. The rigid driveline is set up dead straight.
Once every thing is measured and marked, I raise the engine 1/4" front and back.
If you lay the driveline flat on a table, you can scribe a line across the joint caps. You can then use an angle finder to figure the offset using the center of the center yoke to figure each side. They MUST equal each other.
GT
I have it installed already. I can't lower the front of the engine anymore. There isn't any where to drill through. My friend can make me a new mount so I can lower the front of the engine more.
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I think I need to fix this
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I have it installed already. I can't lower the front of the engine anymore. There isn't any where to drill through. My friend can make me a new mount so I can lower the front of the engine more.
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Looks like you need to lower the entire engine evenly
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Looks like you need to lower the entire engine evenly
Unfortunately I can't lower the front anymore until I make a new front engine mount. I will make one this week. I had a friend help me install it. This time I'm going to do the work myself. I have a old school angle finder I used at the machine shop I used to work for. I will be using that when I redo it next week.
Sent from somewhere in Cali
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Unfortunately I can't lower the front anymore until I make a new front engine mount. I will make one this week. I had a friend help me install it. This time I'm going to do the work myself. I have a old school angle finder I used at the machine shop I used to work for. I will be using that when I redo it next week.
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I'm seeing the front needing to go up, not down.
Where are you located?
GT
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I have it installed already. I can't lower the front of the engine anymore. There isn't any where to drill through. My friend can make me a new mount so I can lower the front of the engine more.
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So looking at this picture, you need to lower the rear and raise the front. The angle on the joint caps should be identical measured on the top, there should be a slight elevation change (up or down) but the angles identical. Right now it looks "nose down".
GT
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So looking at this picture, you need to lower the rear and raise the front. The angle on the joint caps should be identical measured on the top, there should be a slight elevation change (up or down) but the angles identical. Right now it looks "nose down".
GT
X2
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I'm seeing the front needing to go up, not down.
Where are you located?
GT
I'm in Ontario ca
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So looking at this picture, you need to lower the rear and raise the front. The angle on the joint caps should be identical measured on the top, there should be a slight elevation change (up or down) but the angles identical. Right now it looks "nose down".
GT
Ok damn I'm happy you said that before I went and made a new front mount.
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Ok damn I'm happy you said that before I went and made a new front mount.
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Ok. So now, rotate the crank so the yokes on the crank and pump are flat to the top (about 90 degrees from the way they are in the picture).
Use the angle gauge to determine the differential of the two, it should be zero.
You may need to stack washers on the joint cap to get a good read.
GT
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So we got the degrees down to a 4 degree angle. Shaft looks a lot better.
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So we got the degrees down to a 4 degree angle. Shaft looks a lot better.
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Dammit.
No.
All stop.......
Rotate the crank 90 degrees. Check the angle on the cups at the pump and the engine.
If the degree reading is 3°, they should both read 3°. Differential is zero.
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Ok sorry it's 3 degrees
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Sorry forgot to put the picture
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Sorry forgot to put the picture
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Still looks nose heavy.... :-\
GT
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Still looks nose heavy.... :-\
GT
Ok cool we can move it up some. I didn't bolt it down yet. Thank you for all the help. Never done this before. I'm happy someone pointed out what to do. I almost made a new front motor mount for no reason.
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