Looking to put a gate valve in to control the flow of water to the block.  Picture below is where i would like to put it.  (bottom is inlet from pump) Currently there is just the distribution block that sends the water to the two water pump mounts on the block.  (my exhaust has a separate cooling system from the pump)  Anyhow - thinking of something clean and simple that can be adjusted easily.  Would love to stay with AN fittings and something small if possible.  ideas or links?  thanks!

Got a pic?  Thanks!

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perfect.  thanks BJ

good idea with rubber lines.  i will run mine for convenience up a bit further since have SB lines.  what temp do you run with your config at WOT and does that gate setting hold the temp ok at no wake speeds?

good idea with rubber lines.  i will run mine for convenience up a bit further since have SB lines.  what temp do you run with your config at WOT and does that gate setting hold the temp ok at no wake speeds?

Through logs, I get 120ish while underway....
I think.
About 160ish in the No Wake.


-beerjet-

Through logs, I get 120ish while underway....
I think.
About 160ish in the No Wake.


-beerjet-

X2

!25*-130* underway
Maybe 140* in NWZ
At Willow Beach, 10* cooler- 55* river water 
Thru logs and snails 

160* and above is too hot, IMO (not enough flow...)

Dan'l

Mine runs at 155 when running and 175 at idle.  It has always ran like that without any problems 13 to 1 800 HP BBC.

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Mine runs at 155 when running and 175 at idle.  It has always ran like that without any problems 13 to 1 800 HP BBC.

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Why so warm?

Dan'l

Stock indamar marine 330hp runs 180-195 all day long :-) thru a thermostat I think lol

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Again, Why so warm?

My Indmar 454, although not stock any more, runs 125*-130* all the time. (logs and snails)
And only in a really long 'no wake zone', (Katherines, etc,) does it climb past 130*

454 with headers, 120*, 140* in NWZ (Glenco, 19')
SBC with headers, 120*, 140* in NWZ (Saguaro 19')
(all gate valved cooling systems...from home depot speed and marine  )

Dan'l

Again, Why so warm?

My Indmar 454, although not stock any more, runs 125*-130* all the time. (logs and snails)
And only in a really long 'no wake zone', (Katherines, etc,) does it climb past 130*

454 with headers, 120*, 140* in NWZ (Glenco, 19')
SBC with headers, 120*, 140* in NWZ (Saguaro 19')
(all gate valved cooling systems...from home depot speed and marine  )

Dan'l

Dont know Daniel. Its always ran like that. Maybe because the way its plumbed? I dont know. I haven't done anything but a carb rebuild and put gas in it since mothers day. The daytona didnt have a gauge in it so I dont know about that one.

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I have no problem with the temp.  A lot of guys like to run cold not sure why.  I have never thought 160 was to hot.  I guess when someone proves 160 is bad for your motor I will look into it. 

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Lets look at a CAR radiator-
A good radiator will pull 50* out of the water temp-
  Therefore, a car running at 190* (output out of the t-stat), will cool to ~140*, (going in to water pump), at best.
  In a single pass of through the engine it gains about 50* (Transfers this much heat)

In an open cooling system, with the lake temp at 70*, and add (transfer) 50* worth of [engine] heat, the output would be at 120*
Higher lake temps = higher water temps.

While running at 160* to 180* (output temp), there is 90* to 110* of heat transfer, and a good chance of steam pockets to form.
Also at 160*+, all the minerals and salts from the raw lake water form a 'crusty' mineral deposit in the water jackets. Thicker layer, less cooling ability. Salt water is even worse.

190*, 195, 203* etc in todays modern fuel injected cars is not for horsepower output, but rather emission controls.
Running cooler water temps will *help* keep the oil temps cooler. Oil pan volume helps too.
Dyno tests have proven a cooler water temp makes more horsepower. Don't confuse this with cold OIL temps. My oil runs @ 210-220*

My $.02

Dan'l

Dan'l   mash on it,

Great info there. Where did you learn "at 160*+, all the minerals and salts from the raw lake water form a 'crusty' mineral deposit in the water jackets"?

I've boiled eggs, more than once. lol.

Dan'l

That’s pretty good.

So with a [jet boat open fresh water cooled type system, the only pump is the jet] steam pockets can form at lower temperatures (160F) than say a closed cooling system because the water pressure is lower (at idle/low rpms) thus allowing the hotter areas of the [just the head?] to boil the cooling water which will drop out minerals (or worse).  Also, there is less water flow which gives a decrease in cooling water distribution and more and/or hotter hot spots. Is all that right?

How do you know 160F is the temp? And at what pressure is that at?  Any other factors that could bump that temperature up or down, aluminum vs. steel heads?
How do you know most marine manufacturers (I assume jet boat open cooling system, only pump is jet) design their engines around a 140-160F thermostats?