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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2014, 11:45:45 AM »
The ones I originally gaskets bought, they were already closed up on them
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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2014, 11:49:18 AM »
These are my heads
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ka0tyk

  • Karma: +30/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #27 on: June 30, 2014, 11:49:58 AM »
the squares are little metal restrictor inserts.  your intake has the crossover tube in it.  if you use a gasket with it blocked off, eventually the water will penetrate it.  the crossover tube is to warm the intake air when cold to help with keeping a constant air intake temp for smog and smooth idle when cold in a car, and also to cool the intake from the hot oil splashing on the intake manifold from the cam whirling around.  honestly with the oval port heads and intake you're not exactly going to notice the difference with it open or not.  MOST aftermarket intake manifolds are gonna have it blocked off.
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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #28 on: June 30, 2014, 12:20:51 PM »
Okay. So get the gaskets you felpro gaskets you mentioned above and install the little metal restrictors?
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ka0tyk

  • Karma: +30/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #29 on: June 30, 2014, 12:35:03 PM »
bingo.  a small dab of high temp RTV/silicone around the water passages.  lube/oil on the head bolt threads and thread sealer on the bolts that go into the water passages. 

put in head bolts torqued to 70 ft-lbs in three steps of 40, 55, and 70 ft-lbs in the pattern below (so do 1-16 at 40, then 1-16 at 55, then 1-16 at 70):

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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #30 on: June 30, 2014, 12:43:28 PM »
bingo.  a small dab of high temp RTV/silicone around the water passages.  lube/oil on the head bolt threads and thread sealer on the bolts that go into the water passages. 

put in head bolts torqued to 70 ft-lbs in three steps of 40, 55, and 70 ft-lbs in the pattern below (so do 1-16 at 40, then 1-16 at 55, then 1-16 at 70):


I put the heads already the other day. I put permatex2 on all head bolts cus they all seemed to go thru water. On intake tho, I think only 2 thread all way thru. On those little metal restrictors, leave the little holes open too?
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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #31 on: June 30, 2014, 01:14:38 PM »
I'm at autoparts right now and I'm looking at he part number u gave me and the gasket is different material then when I ordered the marine top end gasket kit. The one I got from summit was like silicone material and the one here at auto zone is like metal/card board material type. Is this fine?
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icecreaman

  • Karma: +23/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #32 on: June 30, 2014, 08:31:21 PM »
the squares are little metal restrictor inserts.  your intake has the crossover tube in it.  if you use a gasket with it blocked off, eventually the water will penetrate it.  the crossover tube is to warm the intake air when cold to help with keeping a constant air intake temp for smog and smooth idle when cold in a car, and also to cool the intake from the hot oil splashing on the intake manifold from the cam whirling around.  honestly with the oval port heads and intake you're not exactly going to notice the difference with it open or not.  MOST aftermarket intake manifolds are gonna have it blocked off.

Not to be picky but water does not flow through the crossover.  Exhaust gasses flow through there. Yes it heats the carb base to help cold start, but mostly it's an EGR port for emissions, which boats don't have, so yes it should be  blocked off. 

OP, the cardboard intake gaskets will work fine.  Make sure your surfaces are clean, and put a very light coat of silicone around your water ports on each end.  Throw away the end gaskets and run a bead of silicone on each end.  Let your silicone sit to "air" about 5 minutes before you set your intake on it.  Tighten from the center out and don't over tighten the bolts. Torque is 25 ftlbs . I've added a link from Edelbrock that shows the sequence at the bottom. Good luck.

« Last Edit: June 30, 2014, 08:34:01 PM by icecreaman »
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dat1dsm

  • Karma: +7/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #33 on: June 30, 2014, 08:40:13 PM »
Not to be picky but water does not flow through the crossover.  Exhaust gasses flow through there. Yes it heats the carb base to help cold start, but mostly it's an EGR port for emissions, which boats don't have, so yes it should be  blocked off. 

OP, the cardboard intake gaskets will work fine.  Make sure your surfaces are clean, and put a very light coat of silicone around your water ports on each end.  Throw away the end gaskets and run a bead of silicone on each end.  Let your silicone sit to "air" about 5 minutes before you set your intake on it.  Tighten from the center out and don't over tighten the bolts. Torque is 25 ftlbs . I've added a link from Edelbrock that shows the sequence at the bottom. Good luck.
Thank you. Ordered me the felpro 1212 gaskets.  Thanks for the help guys.  I'll make sure it's Clean and torqued right
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ka0tyk

  • Karma: +30/-0
Re: Headgaskets and Intake
« Reply #34 on: June 30, 2014, 09:52:23 PM »
Not to be picky but water does not flow through the crossover.  Exhaust gasses flow through there. Yes it heats the carb base to help cold start, but mostly it's an EGR port for emissions, which boats don't have, so yes it should be  blocked off. 

OP, the cardboard intake gaskets will work fine.  Make sure your surfaces are clean, and put a very light coat of silicone around your water ports on each end.  Throw away the end gaskets and run a bead of silicone on each end.  Let your silicone sit to "air" about 5 minutes before you set your intake on it.  Tighten from the center out and don't over tighten the bolts. Torque is 25 ftlbs . I've added a link from Edelbrock that shows the sequence at the bottom. Good luck.

poop yer right.  was typing too fast.  whoops. 
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