I forgot I just replaced my water t valve and had manual valve all the way open could that have caused the problem?

So basically old oil?

It would help to know what exhaust you are running


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This is a pic of my setup

I forgot I just replaced my water t valve and had manual valve all the way open could that have caused the problem?

The header water is likely what caused this, if the valve was wide open. Header water should be OFF at 2500 rpm or less, and it only takes a minimal amount of water to cool them while under way.

Dan'l

I did just recently installed a new t fitting my old one went out and I did have the valve all the way open. That's probably my issue. Could I have damaged my engine? It still ran hard before I noticed that milky dipstick

My BBF is set up with the gate valve off the jet at 1 to 1.5 turns open (depends on the time of year/water temp). The valve to the headers is set by taking the boat out with the valve closed, get it up on plane at 2500 - 3000 rpm, have someone slowly open the valve until you just get a mist coming out of the headers. There shouldn't be water dripping out the back of the headers, and if the T valve is working correctly, no water to the headers at idle.

Do you know the cam specs?

1,500 or higher is where the header water should come in.

You likely had cold oil and it never got hot enough to boil out the moisture so what you are seeing is condensation. Sometimes it looks like 50 people sneezed in the valve covers.

Your engine temp plays a small role in oil temp.

I would adjust the water valve to gain some temp at idle,  I really like about 150°F once it stabilizes.

All set ups are different.

The tee valve really should be at the bottom of the system and horizontal. The reasoning is pretty simple, it will stay saturated with water (reducing the potential for rust) and won't drain back into the headers when the engine is off.

Also make sure the weep holes are clear in the primary tubes. This gets overlooked sometimes.

Try to get the oil to run between 180°F and 240°F. Should be OK.

Possible condensation or froth in the oil??? Did you run the motor for a bit and see if it did it again?

Shawn

Is it Necessary to be running 2 valves open or one cracked and one closed? Worried about getting milky oil. Just changed t valve and going to run it close next time out... here is setup 460bbf


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GT is right , motor is to cold , need to get that puppy up to temp and evaporate that condensate . 


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Thank you for the responses.. I believe it’s tee’d off at block I will check when I get back home later how it’s plumbed and take pics. Would it be easier to just install a pressure relief on jet and leave those valves open? Thanks again guys!!


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Those pressure relif valves are one of the dumbest things I have ever seen... Install a gate valve on the pump line, I use the Red and White 3/4" threaded valve and they typically end up about 1/2 open.

With the thermostat set up you have, you can literally just turn it closed until it warms up to above the thermostat value and open it back up one half turn... Leave it alone... Run a tie wrap through the handle so it doesn't get disturbed.

One thermostat line goes through the transom and the other to a tee control valve for the headers.

GT